SleeperZ

I never heard of a fuel temperature sensor in the tank. The Z31 sensor is in the pressure regulator on the fuel rail. I actually threaded my custom aluminum rail for the sensor and connected it to my Z31 ECU. It made the error code go away...

That sounds like a very cool setup, and should perform well. My turbo setup produces major torque, and pretty low - my dyno graph got lost with the new forum setup - but the torque rises sharply to the peak, and tapers off gradually making a flat hp curve to redline. The numbers in my sig are corrected numbers taken at 5500' altitude, so they may be a bit high, but there's no lack of torque judging by the seat dyno. And aside from a custom driveshaft, my drivetrain is stock. No broken parts yet....maybe when I start hitting 60' times lower than 1.9 my halfshafts will break joints.

Nice job. I think I wet myself.

I'm glad to hear that, as my Z31 ECU knock signal would not work with the L28. I just disconnected it to kill the error code, and I hope I don't get knock.

I know exactly how you feel. I've been seeing this debate unfold here for years, and I have still not made my own mind up as to which LSD I want. But look on the bright side: The IRS (independent rear suspension) on the Z car is a really good one. Lot's of people can make two marks on an open diff, and I've not found 1WD to be any handicap at all on the strip. Of course I'm only cutting 1.9 second 60' times, but it's fast enough for me presently.

I'm thinking front engine, rear drive, IRS for both would result in similar launches. The Z06 is probably better set up than the typical 30 year old Z, but it will be mostly driver dependent. I ran against a Z06 at the strip recently, and our launches were very similar. But I ran a 12.9 to his 12.5 - he was not stock.

Damn that's impressive! I'd still like to see it do the 9's the author bragged about - mid-11's with 700+ hp needs improvement (I know, he was being careful to launch nicely). He'd have to pull a ScottieGNZ 60' to get 9's with 136mph traps I would think...

Ouch, bad tranny. I'd be looking for a new one, maybe go for a 5-speed. I'm not sure case repairs are going to be worth trying to fix - you can get a good used unit for less than $100.

That sounds comparable to most engines. Your exhaust temperature will be considerably lower after exiting the turbos. Turbo cars are much easier on mufflers, less heat, and typically less pressure, if you pick the right muffler

Despite the tremendous costs of fabricating a new block, what would the advantage be? It's not like you would get displacement like a V8, you'd still be using the L28 crank with it's disadvantage of length and harmonic vibration, and the stresses in an aluminum block are different, so the structure would have to be re-engineered to withstand them. OK, I'm a "naysayer".

For 650 hp, you'd be better off with an RB or V8. It'll cost you thousands less.

Auxilary - I bought a Dynomax Ultraflow for my turbo setup. 3" in/out, all the way through. The non-stainless part cost me $65 from Summit. I researched it first, and it flows 2 to 3 times what most "performance" mufflers will flow. I got it on the car, with 3" pipe from my downpipe, and it is quieter than what I had before; a full 2.5" system with a chambered muffler. I highly recommend the Dynomax.

Last Friday I lost to a Z06 in a qualifying run. Time-wise that is, he redlighted with a -0.091 to my 0.090 reaction time. Usually I'll beat a stock Z06 up here at 5800', as they'll only pull a mid-13. This one ran a 12.5@112 to my 12.9@110, so he was a couple lengths ahead and pulling at the traps. Damn - thought I was gonna put the hurt on another!

If I just "let 'er rip" with the clutch, I get wheelspin into oblivion. My 60' goes to 2.3 seconds when that happens. I can't let the tires spin at all. I don't know, maybe I can't modulate the tire grip very well. My best 60's with drag radials to date are 20psi, slipping the clutch slightly from 3500-4000 rpm, and very little wheelspin. If I drop the clutch, like in a money run, the 60' is shot and the run is lost.

That's just awesome. Looks like you are getting about the same 60' as I do with the drag radials. I guess I need to get a bit more consistent on my shifting - I should be able to pull some runs off like that with practice.

Wow! For the life of me, I can't get better than a 1.89 60' with my BFG drag radials.

NO.

That looks good to me. Are you planning to run stock turbo, EFI until you can upgrade and make the power? You might check into head gaskets to make sure what you get will fit your 88mm bore. There are quite a few manufacturers of forged pistons - have you looked into who is most suitable and what rings they recommend?

I can't help with much, but I found the wiring diagrams from the '70-'89 Z Chiltons manual to be fairly useful. I would also try to get a hold of the FSM, as it will have the best wiring diagrams.

That's a pretty vague question. Stock engine can make 350+ rwhp - it's not a question of psi or ECU, but how well you control fuel, air temperature and detonation.

I'm using the same (unmodified) DSM valve and running 16psi with no problems, either leaking or compressor surge. I suspect your problems are related to your plumbing, and it sounds shoddy the way you describe it. My plumbing is all hard lines, except for a rubber hose where the valve dumps back into the turbo inlet.

How did you plumb the rail? How is the FPR plumbed? Is it manifold referenced? What fuel injectors are you running?

I run an 8.3 @ 86 that got me a 12.8 in the 1/4. I dyno'd my car last year and got a sea level corrected 313 rwhp. This is running 16 psi boost at 5000' altitude. Something is definitely off in your tuning - I would expect you would be deep into the 12s with your setup, I know someone who had the same setup as you into the high 11s with slicks.

To all that's posted, ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!