SleeperZ

The stock is meant to be threaded with tapered pipe threads. What you thread into it is up to you. You can get pipe thread to AN adapters or pipe thread to hose barbs.

You might have a restriction in the exhaust somewhere, but it could be the stock turbo running out of steam too. There are some folks who have made the stock turbo boost to 17-18 psi with intercoolers though, so it may be your exhaust.

All fuel injected pressure regulators should be manifold referenced (the vacuum line.) RRFPR refers to the fact that the fuel pressure is not constant relative to maifold pressure. Hence, I call a FPR that rises pressure 1:1 with boost NOT RR, as it is simply referenced to manifold pressure. I use a normal adjustable FPR (the AEM, as it goes lower pressure than stock as well as higher.) But that is because I have a factory ECU with larger injectors. I introduced "unmetered air", so the ECU sees a smaller portion of the measured air than stock, so it will give the injectors less duty cycle. As I have larger injectors, this works out to the right fuel mixture - I will find out for sure when I dyno Saturday. I use the adjustable FPR to fine tune the un-metered air setup.

Damn! That bites. I had high hopes for you, that you could make an independant rear work. I guess you are biting the bullet - sucks that the 300ZX stubs can't handle it - I for sure figured they could take it.

I had the MSA boost controller for a while. I hated it. It spiked bad, and it was temperature senstive. When the motor warmed up, the boost rose - not a good thing. I don't know about the ball and spring type, I got a good deal on a used Profec B and I haven't looked back.

I've written extensive descriptions and explanations on why it's a band-aid. The RRFPR is tunable for a speed-density system, and much less so for a sensed-air system like the Nissan. I'll put it this way - if you need more fuel pressure than stock, your injectors are maxxed out for flow. Instead of band-aiding it with a RRFPR that will cause more problems, address the source of the problem -- get some bigger injectors and the means to tune them.

The Bosch is a RRFPR = bandaid, not a real FPR. The Ford will not work, it needs a Ford fuel rail. Not sure I would trust the "Cosmo Racing" unit, butit may be a good unit. Look at Summitracing.com - they have a number of good units, like the MSD, or if you want one that can handle anything you can throw at it, get the Aeromotive or the AEM.

I do fine on 215/60/14 drag radials thank you. The 14x6 factory alloy is VERY light, makes for a nice sleeper package, hence the name SleeperZ. Lol! I would LOVE to see that dyno graph, and die laughing when you post it on SupraForums!!!

If you are not even running an intercooler, 10 psi boost will not run lean. You will not pull in enough air for the ECU to max out duty cycle. Now 12 psi intercooled will start to run lean, but until you start putting down 220+ rwhp, don't worry about it.

Good frickin' grief! Yah, you can see now how tires can make a difference.

So are you running out of breath in 4th at the traps? That's what I was doing with the 3.90...not so with the 3.54.

Nice! Sounds like you should have towed the FoundOnRoadDead with the donated Z.

AHA! THE TRUTH COMES OUT! I run short tires like Jersey here, and he sounds like it's got a 3.90, as my rpms and speeds with a 3.90 match his. I think I will like the 3.54 with shortie tires; I bet I'd like the 3.90 more if I was running 26" stilts!!!

At my altitude, fast stock is in the 14s. Not much effort to get a Z going into 13s here; the old MKIIIs are 15's stock, just like the turbo 300ZX first generations, and most stock Mustangs. But when we talk "Zs" nothing is stock, 'cause stock Zs are SLOW! All the "stock vs. stock" arguments are useless when the rubber meets the road, because at the strip it's "run what you brung, and hope you brung enough".

Thank you, yes it did. The car is running well. On the 12th I'll get to find out just how well, as I'm going to do some tuning on the dyno with a wideband. Hopefully get the boost up safely, and get 12s easy, otherwise I'll just try to get a 12 as-is; a gauntlet has been laid down in front of me.

Nice! What's that puppy weigh? I've always thought it would be cool to drop that little powerplant into a Miata, but a Z is cool too.

Always the plugger, eh Alex? Your Haltech is just the fuel computer, not the spark, right?

At this point, I'd have to say it could be the ECU, although it seems unlikely to me as the ignition signal has no significant power output. Have you inspected the CAS inside the dizzy, or checked for the signal when the car is exhibiting the symptom? That or the ECU must surely be the problem, I doubt you get two bad ignition transistors in a row. Have you tried a different coil yet? I have a spare or two if you need to check it out...

The MKIII Supras are not fast stock. Any moderate turbo conversion to a 240 will beat it, as well as any moderately built V8. Pick your poison and show the pooprah your taillights!

Jersey - I posted the seal numbers about 2 months ago when I was preparing my 3.54. Do a search for "part numbers" in the drivetrain forum, they should pop up. I didn't get bearing numbers.

I second that Jersey. Friday, the first time out with the 3.54, 2nd gear felt a lot stronger, I was building 10 psi. And 1st is actually useful. Before with the 3.90, I had huge problems with wheelspin. As soon as I get used to launching with the 3.54, I'm sure it will be easier to modulate the wheelspin, as I've less mechanical advantage. It may be harder on my clutch though.

Jersey, from your descriptions, I'd bet you have a 3.90 gear. That was what I was running, along with a similar tire size and a T5. Now with a 3.54, the 1-2 shift comes later, and I'm still strong in the power band in 4th at the traps.