SleeperZ

I used the 2-1/2" system from Victoria British for a while on my '78. I had a stock turbo motor in it at the time, it sounded pretty good, but it was somewhat restrictive for a turbo. If you are moving toward a turbo motor with that hp level, you will want a full 3". I suggest you just get something cheap for now, because you won't like a 3" on a stock motor. Besides the connections to the exhaust system are quite different for N/A vs. turbo.

For your TB, 3" OD piping should work fine. I've used mandrel bent exhaust pipe, either aluminized or not. For powder coating, go with regular stuff.

Yes, the '82 has one for sure, around 6400-6500 rpm - I've hit it a few times. The Z31s have the same limiter, the fuel just cuts out. I've heard the '81 ECU doesn't have a limiter, but I don't know for sure.

Every hose connection you can find after the airflow meter. Your symptoms are exactly like a massive leak.

I was disappointed with this new issue. The tech section had some of the worst explanations and solutions for cooling issues I've ever read. Talk about inaccurate...he says a lower temperature thermostat will help an overheating car cool better. WRONG. Thermostats do not dissipate heat, radiators do. If you overheat a 180 stat by 15 degrees (run at 195), you will overheat a 165 stat by thirty degrees. At least he compared the Nissan thermostat with cheap aftermarket ones with a smaller orofice.

The turbo rotors are 5 lug, the n/a rotors are 4 lug.

Sounds like a vacuum leak, possibly a boot in the process of tearing as you stretched it over the mouth of the throttle body.

The return line is absolutely needed. The '75 tank will support the turbo motor as far as you need to go. It has 7/16" feed to the pump, 5/16" supply and 5/16" return - that will support 400hp at reasonable pressures. Just remember to keep the fuel above 1/4 tank if you are flogging the car - I was running below that at the track, and coming out of a hard left turn, the engine would momentarily stumble. As soon as I filled up, the problem went away.

That's awesome - it will really improve things coupled with a 3" exhaust back. Nice job.

Check your connections and wiring, as well as the slotted disc and sensor inside the distributor. Maybe there is some dirt inside or a bad connection.

I use DOT 4 with the highest possible dry boiling point. Wet boiling point is irrelevant because you should bleed the brakes before every event, and change the fluid annually. I've been using Valvoline synthetic with excellent results, but I hear Ford heavy duty fluid is highly recommended as well. Do not use a silicone based fluid.

FMU = RRFPR = bandaid. Go for bigger injectors. Sorry I'm so down on the "FMU", but I don't think it's the right solution for an otherwise good EFI system.

I was web-surfing and discovered that Nissan imported another diesel engine into this country, the SD-33, in the International Scout. Stroke was 100mm. If that sucker fits into a L28 block, you could have one SERIOUS stroker, eh?

Because the MSD is rated at 40 psi. I found no data on flow above that, although I have not contacted MSD. The price is right, and unless I see data, I will conclude flow falls on it's face above that, and you get what you pay for. I also use the 300ZX coil and trigger - it works well, I've encountered zero misfiring at boost.

The only problem with this "controller" is it's not a true controller. The boost will not come up quickly and it will vary with load and RPM. The nice thing about a closed loop around the wastegate is you get ideal control - boost comes up as fast as possible, and it is limited to a set level across the rpm/load band. Holding the wastegate open will get old fast when you see how slowly boost builds,

Pretty sure I used 3/16"

My track day was last Saturday, and I ran in the same group as a pair of Vipers. One had slicks and big brakes, the other was mostly stock. They both kicked my a$$, even though I can easily keep up in the straights. I think it's mostly my driving though, the car does well enough.

My 280Z has a heatshield around the master already. If yours doesn't have one, get one out of a scrapyard and bolt it in. I just ran all day at the road track Saturday with my downpipe 1-1/2" from the proportioning valve and with my stock heatshields installed, never had a braking problem.

MO - unless you were converting the LD28 to turbo and boosting it to 25-30 psi, the diesel would be very slow, and slow and Zs don't go together. I am very interested in diesels though. I just bought a Benz along with a parts car - a 300D, and will be converting it to veggie as soon as I get it running right.

Sounds right to me. I hear a series of things happening when I get on the throttle. I've been systematically fixing leaks, like my old intake was leaking bad from the compressor bypass return, and on my new piping I forgot to tighten the clamp after my turbo outlet - "why won't it build boost?". But I can definitely hear the wastegate opening, and the release into the intake on a throttle lift - the old j-pipe setup was much quieter.

Absolutely. I've done that several times to verify proper operation.