SleeperZ

Deonation is a big deal in turbo engines because of the power level involved, and amount of energy in the cylinder. Potential for damage is higher as a result. I don't recommend upping boost until it pings, rather give the car a good tune-up, and install an EGT. Then you can see the exhaust temperature rise, and you will be able to set an upper limit on your boost without having to detonate and possibly damage your engine. I've done this without a knock sensor; I have the 280ZX knock sensor and a Z31 ECU that will not work together, possibly because the Z31 engine is hydraulic, and quieter. The stock FPR flows enough to handle the Bosch pumps without rising fuel pressure at idle; I'm assuming most of the moderately flowing pumps will not do this - the 5/16" return is adequate for significant fuel flow.

There are 2 things cross-flow heads are better at than non-crossflow. One is intake/exhaust port size - with 6 inlets and 6 outlets on one side, you can see they could be bigger if the intakes were moved to the other side. The other is the proximity of the exhaust port to the intake port, and larger ports are worse, as there is less metal in between - you will get a cooler charge into the engine.

Tokikos unless you want your Z to drive like a bus.

Right, because the differential rotation torque is de-coupled from the wheels, makes the Z a good drag car (yes, maybe not into the 9s), makes it much less dependant on LSD, the "ladder bars" and other solid axle, leaf spring bandaids are un-necessary. Independent rear does VERY well all on it's own.

Supposedly the JWT setup, the sport 450 or something, can get you 450 hp. That comes with injectors. I run a stock Z31 turbo ECU - without modifications you have to run the stock injectors. I modified my MAF, and added an adjustable FPR so I could run larger injectors, and so-far, so-good. As far as wiring goes, you need to make that decision yourself - I modified the 280ZX harness for the ECU, some have swapped over the Z31 harness. There are many options; pick one you are comfortable with, none are particularly easy or completely straightforward.

The R200s will whine if run low on fluid, but it will still go forever. I had faith once in the "Jiffy-Lube" type joints, and was told time and time again the rear end fluid was checked and OK. 3 years later I was driving home from Jiffy Lube after being told that very line, and the rearend started HOWLING! The plug was tight, but the diff was bone dry! Filled it with fluid myself, it ran in my car for 3 more years, though it whined terribly. Needless to say, I've never been back to any lube place - do it all myself.

People at the strip said my car was quiet. I'm sure I have nothing on that hybrid.

You might run into deck height problems going that route. Read up, do some searches. The L series motors are very easy to build high compression just by bolting on an older head like an N42 to a F54 flat top motor and get close to 10:1 compression. There are other uses for the long 240 rods like stroker buildups.

If you are not going to build the motor yourself, you are better off going to the well-known builders to get it - you will get what you pay for. Are you serious about running carbs with a turbo?? You don't seem afraid of spending money, do it right with fuel injection. And if you are worrried about blowing the motor, do some more lurking here and elsewhere (but there is good info on this site), and you will find out a turbo is very safe when done right.

If you really want to spend money, that's how to do it. 7:1 is a bit low - the 400+ turbo stroker L28s are running 8:1 to 8.5:1 or so. If you are new to this, I'd recommend starting with a stock L28ET - you can build a stroker out of it later once you get a taste of the turbo thing.

Turbo will kick the stroker's tail from the start to the finish. My motor is still stock, with turbo upgrade and intercooler, and I am just about to start turning up the boost with a bigger fuel system. I am putting down 250+ to the wheels, according to my time slips (2800lb, 108 traps). Turbo L28s have dyno'd 400+ hp to the wheels, and the best strokers have yet to crack 300.

Sure, I used radiator hose for the piece right off the turbo for a while. It never failed - the stuff is designed to hold 15+ psi of hot water; it's just not the most durable option. As long as you don't run fuel or a lot of oil in it, it should be fine.

That's just cloth braid on that radiator hose. Probably better than straight radiator hose, but it won't last. It'll work ok, a lot better than PVC! Looks like someone got a good deal for less than $1000. Possibly a clutch-type 3.70 LSD, turbo motor and drivetrain, TO4E turbo, who cares if it runs well - that can be fixed, or part it out and upgrade you own Z.

You have a lot of choice in that size, but that is a very small tire. The diameter is 1-1/2" smaller than stock.

I have Z31 vented discs on the front of my 280, using 240 hubs and 280ZX calipers. Normally for the street I run a semi-metallic pad, but it sucks for the track. After about 3 laps, the pedal gets soft and braking ability goes down. I assume it's the fluid overheating. Anyway, I dropped some Porterfield carbon kevlar racing pads in it and bled the system, and had a ball at the track. The pads insulate the heat from the calipers like nothing else, braking performance was fantastic all day long. But now, and I still have the pads in, I brake hard and the pedal vibrates, not too bad, but noticeable. I suppose I've overheated the rotors and they've warped a bit on me. I will have them resurfaced. Do I need to do anything to the pads surface-wise? There is lots of material left in them, and they were expensive, so I don't want to replace them. Am I dealing with the consequences of bedding the rotors with the semi-metallics before I used the Porterfield pads? What can I do to avoid damaging the rotors again? Different pads? Or duct air to the discs? Who has had experience with this?

For pulling stub axles, don't forget an impact wrench or a big a$$ cheater for the axle nut, and a slide hammer for pulling the stubs.

I run 215/60/14. This is a popular tire size for Cadavaliers and such. BFG also makes a drag radial this size.

The Arizona Speed and Marine still has the best price. $12 a foot, perfect for tapping 3/8" NPT. Of course, you pay for the Holley name...

Oh man, that thing looks like a POS from just the one picture. Rust in the quarters, no rear bumper, sure.

I think the point being made here is by using an actual time slip you have an ACTUAL, real world, 0-60 time; albeit on the strip. I have an excel file that does it, but I can't post that. Be happy to email it to anyone though, or do some calculations.

uh....... WOW!

I swear to God, I don't throttle lift, and my 60' was better. I'm not at all consistent though, about maintaining traction, and shifting at the right times...