SleeperZ

I've not seen both pumps side by side, so I can't comment on whether they are made by the same company. However, the GSL392 will outflow the MSD 2225 by a large amount. If you compare the data, the MSD 2225 is rated for 43 gal/hr at 40psi (assuming 12V). For the same pressure and voltage, the Walbro GSL392 will flow 59 gal/hr. Looking at the charts, it looks like the MSD 2225 matches the GSL391 more closely, which is the non-high pressure version of the pump (and also looks extremely anemic at 60psi). http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/fuelsystem/walbroflow.html My answer is NO.

As long as they are both n/a or both turbo, you should be ok.

Makes sense to me, it should be that easy... I've heard all the fast Typhoon/Syclone drag racers convert to RWD - crazy wheeley-pulling machines. But that was on Supraforums.

I think he might be referring to the 4 cylinder turbo in the 200ZX. I'm not sure what that engine is (KA?), but it runs a T25 turbo and a dual ignition.

Very easy. You want to run triples with a turbo? The stock turbo fuel injection on a stock 2.8 liters will get you that level of hp with just a fuel pump and an intercooler. That setup in my Z got me 250hp to the wheels.

Wow, those times do not even match the hp numbers...And the Porsche numbers are obviously wrong - there's no Porsche now with a 2 liter (and it wouldn't run twelves). I think I'll save my money for something useful, like lunch.

Pretty sure that's the source of unthrottled air I was referring to in my previous post. It provides air to bypass the throttle for the cold starting, it provides air for the automatic idle control, and something else I never figured out, as I didn't care. It is sourced off the turbo compressor outlet, as you don't want a lot of pressure drop between the air source and the actuators that control it. When I replumbed my intake to the N42 manifold, I retained that fitting, and ran it to the air regulator for cold starting. No more T, that's the only thing connected.

It may look like the T is after the air regulator, but it's not. The other side of the air regulator dumps in AFTER the throttle body. That T is the source of all the unthrottled air each of those gadgets use to operate.

If you are using a stock cam, I would think the stock springs and lash pads are what you need. If I follow correctly, you are using a stock cam, and just have the Schneider springs and pads lying around. I'm sure the reason the lash pads are bigger than stock is Schneider's cams are regrinds with a smaller base circle - you need taller pads to bring the follower geometry back to stock.

You don't need it, but the air regulator is nice for warming up a cold car. If you don't have it , you will have to keep your foot on the throttle for a minute or two as the car warms. That is the only device I am using, as I'v long scrapped the EGR, and never used the AIC, having always set my idle with an air bypass, or the stop on the throttle butterfly.

Louder than mine, 'cause I recirculated it.

I don't think you want the intercooler behind the hot radiator - the IC will be heatsoaked before you can run boost through it.

0.610" lift?!?!?! That's more than most V8s with 1.8"-2.0" valves! I wonder what ratio rockers you have to use with that. And if the valves are stock size or a little bigger, there is probably no benefit to that much lift - the flow restriction is completely in the valve diameter at that point.

I totally agree, the rear is the nicest I've seen. That is truly a gorgeous Z.

Huh? Don't you see the Fords, Chevys and Pontiacs racing at Nascar? Are you saying those aren't really stock cars? If it looks like a Z, only is faster and handles better, it's still a Z!

It'd work great if you had a turbo to attach to the outlet. Otherwise, you will not have fun attaching an exhaust pipe to the large square outlet.

Good news, that's fast work.

First of, very nice setup. That's cool that you can still use some of the stock parts most of us have long ago thrown away. How the heck do you balance a motor to 10,000 rpm?? I suppose you could balance the crank, and then match the piston/rod sets by weight to each crank throw, but to what end? No way can you spin the motor that fast - - the pistons would fly off the rods. And they say here, and in other L28 circles, it's extremely risky to take the motor over 8000 rpm, not because of balance issues, but crank torsional stresses.

Dayum!!!! That is one FINE setup!

I'm sure for the most part, the paper Frams work well. And I use the cheap crap oil too, because it'll be replaced with the filter. I just reach a discomfort zone with the paper Fram crap, where I don't know if that filter is going to fall apart - I'm not comfortable with that. Also, IMHO, the anti -drainback valve plays an important part in startup - if it doesn't do it's job, you could get more wear on your engine.

Those are great !! Way to poke fun at the ricers, lol. Most people would not put in the time and energy to do that sort of satire.

I believe the term was backpressure, found in the exhaust side. Backpressure on the intake side is referred to as boost.

The way you said it sounded like it was just an iron/aluminum thing. I know we are not supposed to talk about hp/cid, but my turbo motor, with less than half the displacement of a big block, puts out 300hp/300tq - that's got to be seeing similar internal stresses....maybe you are right about coolant flow differences though.

I came real close to putting in larger exhaust valves when I had my head built. Only problem was my stock bore would cause excess shrouding of the valve. My head builder advised me against it after flowing the bigger valve versus unshrouding the stock valve; he said the stock valve, with some unshrouding, does better with the stock bore. I've also heard there is a much diminished increase in flow with increased lift. Somewhere after the .450" mark, increased lift is not supposed to flow any more to make it worth the hassle. I'm sure that depends on valve size, some proportion of lift vs. diameter where it won't make any sense to go longer with the lift.

No they don't. Those shops will never get my performance business anyway. There are lots of places on the web you buy pre-bent mandrel pieces. I personally have patronized Summit Racing, Jegs, and United Muffler.