SleeperZ

Yes, BW T-5. I had a custom driveshaft made when I originally installed the L28ET in my '78, to fit the 3 speed auto from the turbo to the stock 280 diff flange. When I installed the T5, I had to get the shaft shortened. I had to modify the tranny mount and the tranny ears, both slotted. What a pain in the butt combined with new motor mounts! And the custom driveshaft cost the same as having it rebuilt or shortened. It was originally $230 to build, $180 to shorten and rebalance a year later, another $200 to replace U-joints and rebalance at a different shop last year.

My 13.2 run was with a 1.9 second 60'. I'm running this Friday with my 3.54 and a new diff mount installed. I'm not going to up the boost any right now, as I'm not sure if everythings happy inside. I have an appointment with a dyno July 12 to tell me how things are set up, and once I check compression and plugs, I'll see about tweeking the boost up. My tire size is a bit taller than yours (I run a 215/60/14 BFG drag radial), and I was definitely on the falling side of the torque curve before the traps in fourth with my 3.90. So the 3.54 should help on the 1-2 shift and still be in the torque band at the traps. EDIT: Found my time slip, here's the details: R/T - 0.519 60' - 1.928 330 - 5.590 1/8 - 8.552 @ 84.31 1000 - 11.072 1/4 13.232 @ 104.02

I'm running the solid aluminum/delrin T/C bushings. I had not heard they wear out in short order. I've had them installed for nearly 5 years now. Is this true? Can anyone corroborate this?

Damn! You drive the hell out of that car! Congratulations. I have all the go-fast goodies, even a higher trap speed (107), and I have to make up more than 0.2 to hit 12s. Nice work.

Turbo and Z31 ECUs do not have an ignition module.

What about running a 5/16" drill up the injector bungs on 1 and 6 once the end fittings are installed, to clear out any blockage from the fittings? I'm glad I made my own, using 24 inches instead of 18...

That is amazing! Amazing the buyer could share such a story, where he saw the warning signs and ignored them. One thing I try to remind myself is always be ready to walk away ... he bought a 1 way ticket!

OK, sounds good. I would have thought the ECU would have enough drive to trigger the MSD by itself, but it sounds like it doesn't, and you need the transistor trigger. Also, maybe the MSD needs a ground signal to fire, and the ECU is going to send a positive level to fire, so the transistor may just be necessary to perform a logic inversion.

How does sequential "knock the batch out of the water"? Can you quantify that statement?

It looks like they are all big enough. My Spearco is not nearly as thick as some of those, and it works very well. 1. Looks great, but you need to get a total width measurement, it may be too wide. 2. How big is it? 3. It may be too wide. Get out your tape and see if 31" will work. 4. It is not as wide, but you have to run bends out the ends, and it may end up too wide as a result.

No, I would expect the MSD can drive the coil directly using the ignition signal from the ECU. I can't answer the wiring specifics, but the trigger transistor (what people call the"ignitor") will not be needed. I would think you should run an MSD coil as well.

Sorry to continue the post hijack, but maybe you are confusing synthetic with silicone? Silicone is bad news, and is just designed to be more tolerant of moisture, which is only a problem if you never bleed your brakes, like 99% of car owners. My brakes are not spongy, and the stuff is DOT4. Just like synthetic motor oil, the fluid is more stable at a molecular level, and it's made of generally the same stuff as dino-derived minerals. If I had the same issues with it as LJ, I'm sure I'd say it sucked too, but I don't those issues at all. It works great for me.

Because the Z31 ECU wires to the MAF. The harnesses between the 280ZXT and the Z31 are similar, so the swap is not difficult. IMHO, the MAF flows so much greater than a flapper, it makes the swap worthwhile.

That's a lot of questions... That's a good thing though. Ok, the stock fuel pump will NOT tolerate much pressure increase. I suggest you get a better pump before you go to an FPR. You can get very good, cheap pumps. I have a few used Bosch pumps with fittings to adapt to stock lines, $30 each, if you want. 2-1/2" piping is OK if it's mandrel bent. If you crush-bend the crap, it will be very restrictive, especially if you have the two 90* bends necessary to run it out the back in the stock location. You could get away with 3" crush bent, but I'd not recommend 2-1/2" crushed. The diameter of the turbo AFM is 3", the same as a Z31 MAF. The n/a AFMs are smaller. The BOV will not "keep the turbo spooled" between shifts. What it does for you is prevent compressor surge, which can destroy your turbo. You lose your boost if you throttle lift on a shift whether you have a BOV or not, and you have to build it up again regardless. Difference in re-spool time will be measured in milliseconds, not enough to notice. I've seen ZERO data to prove it improves ETs or otherwise. At sea level some people have effectively boosted the stock turbo to 18 psi. Looking at the T3 super 60 trim map, this is WAY out of it's efficeincy range already. There is no benefit to trying to get more boost, because you wont get any more power. It's blowing hot air, so the boost pressure increase does not outweigh the density loss, and you increase the possibility of detonation. Not to mention you are exceeding the speed rating of the turbo and it will not last. That's why I say you can get 250hp out of the stock turbo and NO MORE, regardless of how hard you push it. This diatribe is mostly opinion, so if I'm wrong, don't hesitate to correct me. HTH.

My half shafts have zerks in them, stock Nissan and most U-joints have them. edit: Are you talking about the slider? Didn't think there was a real need to have that lubed...

Hold off on the injectors, especially big ones. The factory ECUs CANNOT run them.

Sounds like a sweet setup. I don't know the specifics on the IHI, but I've heard they are not as reliable or efficient as the Garrett models. Even so, the Impulse only had a 1.8 liter motor, so for 5.3 liters, 2 sounds inadequate. What about a pair of stock T3 Z turbos? I think that would be about ideal...

It sounds to me like you have to pace yourself. Do not expect to run 12's right away - it takes time even with a perfectly installed, perfectly tuned car. If you are running into budget problems (who doesn't hav those?), take a look at what you have, and work from there. It will cost you plenty of nickels and dimes just to install what you have. If your motor is not broken, there is no need to build it now. It will cost you PLENTY to build it up, especially with new pistons. I've run 13s on a tired engine, and Shane has run 12s on tired engines. If you can't afford engine management right now, you can stil run a big turbo of your choice, since you need to get one anyway. The car will run BETTER with an efficient turbo, not worse. You don't have to run 15-20 psi on it, just run a modest boost until you can upgrade the fuel and EMU. Good luck.

I've run the Valvoline synthetic in my brakes for 3 years now, with no problems. I ran a few weeks ago on the road course with Porterfield pads, and freshly bled (of course), and had excellent braking performance. Never faded, could break the tires loose everytime, and did on accident a few times. Previously I'd fade the brakes with semi-metallic street pads, but I attribute that to the pads, as it worked very well on the street. I like the stuff - it has a very high dry boiling point.

Looks great, but I didn't see a price (means $$$.) If it costs more than half the price of a stand-alone, I'd consider the standalone, as the factory electronics are not conductive to tuning and large hp increases.

The 240s came with open R180s. Search the past postings, this is one topic that is discussed over and over again.

It all depends on what you do with your car - you can't get the "best" suspension for all situations. Tell us what you intend to do, and you will get better feedback.

Sounds like you are on the right track. But let me say this - an intercooler is necessary. Use any manifold you like, they will all work fine. If you want 250hp and that's it, consider a Z31 turbo ECU, they are cheap and not too hard to install. You can then use stock injectors, upgraded pump and a good intercooler to get you 250hp. The injectors will not take you any further, then you may need a standalone unit. And yes, the general consensus for the budget buildup is to use the stock 2.8 liter motor, valve cover to oil pan. It's much cheaper to get hp through boost than building a motor.