wheelman

Viper, How much longer is the Suby rack? I'm considering a PS install to keep my arms from getting to sore while Auto-Xing. I checked out Alsil's Mustang rack install but think it has major issues with bump steer. Looking at the pictures of your rack it appears you moved the pickup point about 1/2" outward and 3/4" up. Is this correct? Seems to me moving the pickup point up did more to eliminate bumpsteer than moving it outward and rather than shorten the LCA wouldn't you want to keep the negative camber you gained? Just curious? Wheelman

240Z, It's possible to add baffles and/or a sump to the stock 240 tank. I initially elected to add a sump and ran it for about 3 months but then the tank started shedding rust real bad and plugged several filters. To avoid having to swap filters every other week I decided to install a tank from a 2001 Camaro. They're plastic and have a built in pump and swirl pot that eliminates problems with starvation. The only draw back (if you consider it a drawback) is you have to remove the spare tire well. There are a couple threads on here that show pictures of this swap if you're interested. Wheelman

Deja, Aren't your setback plates made of aluminum? They look to be quite a bit thicker than mine and I'm running 3/8" thick steel vs the 5/16" recommended by JTR. You could probably grind some on the plate to gain clearance and not cause any problems, as for the headers and the steering shaft, it's not uncommon for tight clearance there either. Lots of guys dimple the tube but if your's are coated you don't want to do that. Is it possible to slide the engine a little further back? Sounds like you're having all sorts of fun though, good luck with it and let us know how you solve the clearance issues. Wheelman

My LT1 is from a 1995 Caprice 9C1 cop car. Here are the details: Iron heads Hedman Tight Tube headers 3 1/2" MAF from Camaro CAI with KN Filter LT4 Hot Cam New timing set High rev valve springs from Combination Motor Sports Custom PCM tune Mated to WC T5 2001 Camaro fuel tank with stock pump Estimate 300HP at flywheel but no dyno numbers or 1/4 mile times Wheelman

If the rack had been changed, how would I be able to tell? I'm not about to swap it out, just curious. The rubber I used to "fill in the space" is neoprene so it's soft enough to provide just a little give. Wheelman

Jon, That statement exactly describes where I'm at. I don't like it here in the Tri-Cities but I'm as happy as I've ever been and I REALLY don't want to screw that up. Having the large garage and the ability to work on my project cars goes a long way toward compensating for the negatives of the area. Again this is exactly what I said about that area. I love it up there and some day will find the perfect plot of land for a summer retreat. When that happens we'll have to have you and your wife over to do some fishing and drink some beer if you're into it. So how much do you have left to do on your Z before it's ready for the road? Wheelman

When I replaced the rack bushings on my 240 with the ploy Energy Suspension units I had to put an extra layer of rubber in to keep them from moving around. I think the Energy Suspension kit uses the same parts for the 240 and 280, they looked like the ones labeled as for the 240 from the pictures above. Wheelman

What Jon, you don't want to help fund the "BIG DIG" west coast edition? Those of us on the east side of the state watch in amazement the absurd decisions made by those running King county. My wife and I have been through the moving thing a few times ourselves. When we first moved to the Tri-Cities from Spokane I gave it 3 years and we'd be outta here, I've tried unsuccessfully to move several times since then. That was 13 years ago and this is the longest I've lived anywhere. I grew up in northern Idaho and the Spokane area so would really like to get back that direction some day. It will be difficult for me to make a move now though, I've finally got a house with a very large garage (1100 sq ft) and contemplating leaving it makes me hesitate. Our main reason for wanting to move out of here is the hot summers, the dust and the wind. We've pretty much decided to buy some property close to one of the lakes in eastern WA or northern ID and make that our summer getaway. We spent last summer looking and made an offer on a nice plot close to Newport WA but it was rejected. I think it's a good time to be looking as property values have leveled off and even dropped in some places. Anyway, don't get discouraged, you'll eventually find a place you like that also has good job opportunities for your wife. Mean while, get your Z back on the road and enjoy it. Wheelman

I told my family that if they submitted my Z for either Pimp-My-Ride or Overhaulin I'd kick their ass. Not that Foose isn't talented, he just doesn't listen to the desires of the owner and I definitely have a plan for my Z that includes no bling. Wheelman

Congratulations to you and your wife, it's a big accomplishment. So does this milestone move the date for your relocation plans forward? Wheelman

I used the stock 240Z bell crank thats mounted to the firewall and connected the stock LT1 cable to it. Wheelman

Is the mustache bar behind the rear crosslink supports? If not, flip the mustache bar around and then align the front mount to correctly fit. You might have to get a later model rear crosslink as well. I don't remember what year the change was made but Nissan moved the diff back which required the rear crosslink to be curved. If your car is old enough the crosslink will be straight which won't work with the R200. If you can, take some pictures it might help us figure out where the problem is. Wheelman

You did that with the engine in place? I just pulled the setback plate assembly to make that cut, not worth the effort of trying to get the grinder and sawzall into the tight confines next to the steering column. Bartman, If it only has 1000 miles on it you probably should just sell it on ebay. I'm really just interested in the optical section so I can feed to signal train into the MS-II unit and work out the code to control spark and injection timing. Wheelman

Sounds to me like you have plenty of clearance. The part of the mount bolted to the Datsun mount tower should not move, if it does you have more serious problems. I have similar clearances to yours (I think, my finger may be skinnier than yours ) and have had no problems with things rubbing. BTW: Bartman, what did you do with the opti you removed from your engine? I'm considering adapting a MegaSquirt II to work with the opti and having one around to work with would be nice. Wheelman

Sweetride2go, Sorry I didn't respond sooner but I just saw this thread active again. Sometimes I wonder if the "New Posts" button actaully pulls up all the new posts. Anyway, using an EDIS trigger wheel to simulate the opti will not work either. The opti actually produces 2 pulse trains. The high resolution signal pulses every 1 degree of cam rotation, the other varies and is used to determine where in the rotation the engine is and is called the low resolution signal. Here is a link that describes the actual outputs: http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0310htp_lt1_ignition_system_understanding_modifying If you were to adapt an EDIS wheel to the LT1 pulley you might as well use the EDIS modules and coils and eliminate the opti all together, then run the whole system using MS-n-EDIS. I've actually considered doing this to mine just to see if I could get it to work. Wheelman

Yasin, I'm glad you got home OK. I learned the hard way when I was a teenager about the consequences of road rage. I was taking my GF to class at the local college and took an off ramp that looped back over the freeway and made a jog as it crossed several streets. I was going the speed limit and there were other cars around when this guy pulls out in front of me from a side street and crosses into the lane next to me. I missed him just barely and as I passed gave him one of those "you dumb ****" looks and continued on thinking the incident was over. About a block later I notice something in my rearview mirror and look to see the guy behind me gesturing angrily. I flip the bird and then ignore him. No sooner did I turn away and the guy is next to my car throwing stuff out his window at us. I'm thinking "great, I hope I don't have to stop at a red light anytime soon" and sure enough, next intersection is a red light. The guy jumps out of his truck, comes over to my side of the car and starts beating on the window. I tell my GF to lock her door and keep the window rolled up but she wants to try to reason with the guy and starts to get out. Fortunately my window breaks and glass flys everywhere, cutting my GFs nose. Apparently the guy's anger wore off real fast at this point because he jumped in his truck and took off. Turned out the guy had a history of this type of behavior and he agreed to pay to fix the window and for the medical bills. We didn't charge him criminally though as the detective told us I could be held partially at fault because I "flipped him off". Did I learn my lesson? You bet I did. Do I still brake check people if they're following to close? Sometimes. Wheelman

You're in luck then if it's a 280Z. The tank should already have the baffling you want so you can just use it. I'll PM you with a price, where do you live so I can figure up the shipping costs. Wheelman

What are your plans for your fuel tank? I don't see which car you have in this thread but I'll assume it's a 240 based on the 9PSI pump. You can swap the tank to an LS1 series Camaro (F-Body) or use the stock one. If you stick with the stock tank you really want to do something with it to prevent the fuel pickup from losing fuel when in a corner. I welded a sump on mine which prevented the fuel starvation but the tank started shedding rust real bad so I swapped it out for a Camaro tank. Another option is a surge tank which you can feed with a low pressure pump then run the high pressure pump from it. If you stick with the stock tank you can use a Walbro 255LPH inline pump. It will provide the needed pressure and with large enough lines will flow more than the LT1 needs. I still have the one I used with the stock tank. I'll make you a good deal on it if you're interested. Wheelman

I have some friends who want me to do an engine swap and some other work on a 1976 Datsun B-210. They aren't really sure what they are looking for engine wise but they want to go auto and not huge HP as it's for thier daughter. They are wanting to stay around $1000.00 for the cost of parts (yeah I know, not very realistic). Anyway I found this on ebay the other day, the autction expired with no bids and has been relisted. What do yo guys think? would this be a good canidate? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AWNARL%3AMT%3A12&viewitem=&item=280086076684 Any other suggestions? Wheelman

There should be a 1/4" hard line for vapor control that goes back to the tank. What are you planning to do? Depending on how much HP you plan to make you might want to replace the feed line with 3/8" and use the 5/16" as your return. I replaced both with 3/8", but I'm running an LT1 and the tank is from a 2001 Camaro. Wheelman

Jon, So should I assume you'd start out in the NOVICE class then?!?! JK, Your rusty reflexes might actually give my inexperienced reflexes a chance to make it competitive. Edit: Have you decided where you want to move yet? I thought Boise was at the top of your list last I heard. 260DET, I think we determined that those S15 helical centers require 30 spline output shafts which means you will need a custom set of axles to make it work. If you have one and can use the standard 29 spline R200 shafts with it please let us know. Wheelman

I think I should mention that the block huggers I'm using are not the standard type everyone else has. Mine are Hedman Tight Tubes. They are built with a wide and more flat collector so all the header tubes are closer to the block but it also means the end tubes do not have a bend in them but angle directly from the exhaust port to the collector. Here is a link to the Summit page for them just so you can get an idea of what they look like. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HED%2D68506&N=700+400143+308700+115&autoview=sku I'm not advocating them necessarily but just wanted people to see why I set up my mounts with the plate against the block rather than the spacer. I do like the headers and got them for a great price. Wheelman

Phantom, I know exactly where that is, I go through that valley at least 3 or 4 times a year to go camping up by Mt. Rainier. I'll have to see if I can find a web site for the Yakima club and get their schedule. Several guys from that area come down to the Tri-Cities and race with us. Wheelman

Phantom, Looks like a real nice place. It's amazing what's available in this area at very reasonable prices. What part of the Yakima area did you finally end up in? My Younger sister lives just outside of Selah, I think we've been over this before, I like it out there, not to far from town but far enough to have a little seclusion. We're going to have to have a Pacific Northwest Z get together at some point. There are 3 HybridZ members here in the Tri-Cities (Wagz, Peternell and myself) and now you in Yakima, several in Seattle at least 1 in Spokane and some in Oregon as well. Yakima is a relatively central location, maybe do something at the drag strip in Union Gap. You should try to make it to one of the local Auto-X events some time. Check out ssscc.org for the schedule, they don't have the full season calendar up yet but the next event is scheduled for March 31st and April 1st. Wheelman

I had a custom one made using the rear adapter from JTR and a Spicer Yoke on the front. Total cost was about $250.00 but I know it's brand new, balanced correctly and stronger than a stock one that has been cut a re-welded. Peace of mind is worth the price. Wheelman