olie05

we get rain not nearly as fun as snow appears to be.

i agree.

A friend of mine, whose car I work on occaisionally uses an MSD box. Recently one of the battery leads was disconnected while the engine was running in an attempt to shut down the engine. Reason for this was that there was no coolant in the engine and he did not realise it at first. When the engine was filled with coolant, and everything was connected again, the car would not start. MSD 6a was replaced with a new one and now the car starts just fine. Also, the car is running on Megasquirt, with megasquirt triggering the MSD and the MSD firing the coil. Now we want to figure out what happened to the crapped out MSD6A. Can MSD boxes only be disconnected first from the "small" red wire, and then from the heavy red or black wires? I wish to understand why this failure occured. is this something typical of capacitive discharge ignition systems, or specific to MSD's?

Thats pretty

I'm kind of confused as to where the rubbing is occuring... is it on the front lower panel or the part right behind the front wheel on the fender? either way, a hacksaw is your friend. Also, an aftermarket airdam may aleviate the problem, assuming it is comming from the front of the front wheels.

Wow. That is a very daring design. I really like that front windshield becoming the roofglass without interruption. - very porshe panorama/scion tC

Hey Mark! I make visits to Austin every once in a while (maybe once every two months) It would be cool to see your car. Very clean install

Hm... lets not get engines involved... Well I think the maing goal here is to improve upon the stock L6, otherwise there is no point in swapping it out in the first place. There are several engines that can produce more power than the l6, with a lighter overall weight. When I consider an engine swap for my car, I think of a more compact engine than what is in there. But I am biased towards corners, not straight line acceleration. It has alot to do with what kind of racing you are doing.

Sweet!!! why didn't anyone think of this before?

diggin' the bike. I love the round headlights on those.

Another problem is bolting the manifold to your head. The E-88 (i'm guessing thats what is in your 240z) does not have the holes for the EFI manifold. Also, when I saw one, the maxima manifold looks like it has slightly smaller runners than a normal 280z one. Can anyone verify that?

Lol this thread has gotten out of hand! The problem sort of fixed itself. I pretty much took everything apart, (relay and switch-wise) and put it back together. Once everything was back together it acted the same, until a day later when it started up just fine. I am pretty sure it was a dirty contact in the ignition switch at this point, because of the way i had to "finesse" the key to get it to stay on without having to hold it in the start position. I don't consider this problem completely resolved since I did not fix it, however the car is driving around like normal.

http://www.berkeley.edu/news/media/releases/2001/04/02_engin.html MMM... turbocharged laptop... running megasquirt...

lol. Apparently Jimbob racing noticed it before you

It would be rather difficult to do, given the lines of the Z. A similar effect could be achieved by molding in the hatch with the rest of the body.

you mean an import engine. (to the ferrari at least)

Paul, I want dibs on that intake pipe. I will hassle you until it is in my hands

unless you put a s13 front end on a 280zx, its been done.

I want one.

I think 880lbs is a little on the heavy side.

is that dude smoking a cigar?

I just recently recorded my MPG for the past week. Miles on Trip ODO: 326.8 Actual Miles: 339.5 (corrected for 225-50-15) Gallons of Fuel consumed: 13.783 MPG: 24.63 This is combined city and highway driving, including some pretty crappy traffic on one of the days. edit: l28 stock EFI, 10.3:1 cr, 81 5 speed tranny, stock 3.54 diff. (correct spedo sensor gear)

This was the first method that was attempted. It was suggested by the Haynes manual, and it did not work. It did not help that the pilot bearing was trash when we got to it though. BTW white lithium grease makes people wonder what exactly you were doing under the car...

I was changing the clutch on a buddy's ford ranger today... we got the tranny off and we are all the way down to the crankshaft's butt trying to get the pilot bearing out. we tried very hard with a tire Iron, and then several different size flathead screwdrivers before we realized that we needed this special tool called a "pilot bearing puller" well it turns out that the pilot bearing puller isn't actually a puller, just an attachment for a puller. We set it up and try pulling by hand, then by plier and then strategically with a hammer... no luck. Finaly we try my car. I still have the right bumper shock on my car so that seemed like a good place... trial one: push the car by hand and use the momentum to pull the bearing out. results: Puller comes out with no bearing trial two: push the car by hand and use the momentum, but this time putting more torque on the puller to get it to grab on the bearing harder... results: same as above trial three: launch car at 3500rpm with a little slack in the cable, and with the puller as tight as it will go on the bearing. All while leaving 2 nice thick rubber tracks in the pavement. results: SUCCESS!!!! i <3 my car