olie05

Nah you didn't burst my bubble... It was a highly optimistic thought. I just saw a website of a guy doing it and thought it would be cool. ( I just wanna play with some melted metal! ) I have a feeling you thought about this when you were thinking of what to make the dohc heads with... -Oliver

I was recently looking into lost foam casting. If I made a manifold out of that it would be pretty cool too.

I saw some of the install pictures on their website and noticed how low to the ground the turbo is... and more importantly the air filter. What happens when you go through a big puddle? -Oliver

How exactly are the injectors not leaking? you have screws holding them in place, but the screws don't look like they could be pushing against an o-ring on the injection side of the injector...just curious to see what you did. -Oliver ps... are these going to be sold in the future? maybe an intake/ported head combo w/ a price break?? nudge nudge...

LOL... wheres the *shifty eyes* smiley!?!?!

those four exhaust tips look MEAN...

Yeah, the brakes were great on this car and so was the handling. I assumed that thing about getting used to all the little things, I'm sure if I drove the car for a week I would absolutely love it, besides, I know my car has a million nuances I have become accustomed to. -Oliver

I drove a friend's 1984 911 convertible yesterday and I was not amused. The clutch came up from the floor which was disgusting for the way you had to push it in and it had a notchy feel to it, deffinitely not smooth. I know this is more of neglect and not porsche engineering, but the shifter was extremely sloppy so finding the gears was kinda hard. There was also alot more slop in his drivetrain than in mine. Power was about the same as my z, and considering it was a 3 liter with bosch l-jet fuel injection (from what i could tell by looking at it) I was not surprised. The only thing I liked more than my car was the way it handled. It took the corners very well. When I got back in my car it made me smile, how much more I liked it over that porsche! Anyone have similar experiences? -Oliver

So today I left my car at my friends house and from there we headed to our bassists house to jam, and when we finished that we got back to my friends house, and i had left my keys at my bassist's house (cus i took my jacket off and left it there with the keyes in it)... my bassist's house is 30miles away from my friends house, so we were not driving back to get em. So i hotwired the car! It was surprisingly easy. All I did was disconnect the ignition lock cylinder harness and jump two wires, and then I went under the hood and jumped the starter with a screw driver to crank it. Incredibly easy. Oh yeah, and I removed the lock cylinder so I could turn the wheel.... now you can all laugh at my stupidity! haha -Oliver

...says the guy with the huge FMIC and ghetto fabbed radiator... -Oliver

dude, nice find! hope it wasnt too much $$$... I'd be down to help you if you want with the install. I'm also curious to see what the body shop did with the car! -Oliver

The more I think about it, the more it makes sense. Its all in the thermostat (water). I have thought about what yasin said about fuel injection being at optimal running temperature. So, what I do since I drive the car everyday, In the morning I watch the temp. gauge, which takes about 5 min. to get up to 1/4- 1/2 temp with no fan at all, then I watch out everytime I stop moving (stop light or traffic) to make sure the car doesn't go past the half way point, which it still hasn't done. I deffinitely owe that all to the thermostat opening wide open. That means that when I used to run my mechanical fan, the t-stat would stay partialy open almost all the time, where as now I have a feeling the t-stat is at full flow alot more often. Any thoughts on that? -Oliver

I think alot of it has to be with how cold the weather is right now, and the fact that my radiator is no older than a year, and the gauge I know works correctly... I'll be watching out for the warmer days of summer... -Oliver

I did the electric fan swap almost two weeks ago, and I'm a little confused. I have the fan wired to a switch, and I decided I will turn the switch on when I see the temps get past normal temperature like when I had the old fan on. So far, it hasn't risen past that temperature, and I haven't had to turn the fan on. Even in stop and go traffic there is no need to turn it on... anyone have similar results with an electric fan swap? -Oliver

I agree with larsz, the bcdd was the problem with my high Idle. There was an adjustment nut at the bottom, and you can disconnect the whole thing and adjust the nut all the way so that your idle speed will be only be dictated by your idle screw. -Oliver

I was thinking about supertrapps for their tunability, but wouldn't the exhaust exit sideways from the pipe with the discs? Its a diffuser so all the exhaust goes out the side with a slower velocity when compared with a normal pipe. Then the exhaust would get sucked into the cabin easier... right? -Oliver

Yeah, I'm planning on getting a cutout eventualy. I just put the muffler back on yesterday, cus I ended up not going racing and I took this girl to a place that was like 40min. of driving (conversations can't be had with a straight pipe). So I still have the straight pipe set up in the garage and it only takes about 10 min to swap it out... Oh well, I had my 4 days of fun!!! Of course now I have one less thing cops can pull me over for. -Oliver

this was on of the kits i was going to go for with my rebuild. Only reason i didn't was because the machine shop said they could machine everything and give me the parts for about the same price. It turned out to be a little more, but you can't beat 100 buck for machine work -Oliver

if it has a sohc L engine in there already, then yes it will be easier to swap in an l28et engine, since it bolts in. If your current engine is DOHC, then you would have to swap out the crossmember for one that will hold up an L series engine if you want to swap over. RB series engine will require much more modifying. -Oliver PS: if its dohc, i would suggest keeping the engine... or dumping it on my front yard... just a heads up!

DavD3, When dealing with N/A engines, what you want to worry about is compression ratio. You want to go for the ka24 pistons i'm guessing because of the 89mm bore. With your setup you will be at 9.16:1.(according to l-engine builder program) This will result in more horsepower and torque across the power band, but a higher cr will give you a more serious N/A engine. I don't think deck height is as much of a concern here as compression ratio is, unless it is positive deck height and it will hit the head at tdc. Of course, any other piston/rod combo would not let you run such a wide bore (without custom pistons) and such a "low" compression ratio. -Oliver

Setting the ignition timing shaft is a pita but make sure you do it right. Do you have the "how to rebuild your nissan ohc" book? That is a very important book to read when doing a rebuild. Other than that make sure all torques are correct and you should be fine. -Oliver

Yeah thats what I was doing before, but it just kept getting worse. This WD-40 has held up for 2 days, so i'll just keep sprayin it until i have the time to take off the latch and really work on it. -Oliver

zero, Thats what my car sounds like now! Actualy its a little deeper than that but that might have something to do with me not having a big cam. VERY MEAN!!! I had a crowd going when I started my car after school today!! hehe -Oliver

I had a revalation at school today!!! Instead of concentrating on my work, I was thinking about my car (whats new) and thinking if things to do with it. Then the exhaust came into my mind, and the design of the MSA turbo exhaust system... I could simply take the muffler off and stick on a 2.5 inch pipe!!!! So thats what I did after school today. Right now I'm running stock manifold and the entire turbo system, minus the turbo muffler, and no cat! I like the way it sounds, but its too loud for the street, so i'm going to put the muffler back on after I go racing on friday. I really only did it to get back at the people with cutouts so loud that I can't hear my own engine!!! Any one else running straight pipes out there?? -Oliver

Alright, so I sprayed WD-40 into the lock tumbler, and that didn't do anything, so continued to spray by the striker, and it actualy freed up the lock a little. What do I have to do, now that I know the problem isn't in the lock tumbler, to free it all up? BTW I don't think my key will break off anymore, but I still have to use more force than on most cars to unlock it. -Oliver