olie05

ok so i guess through this post i have somewhat narrowed it down. Its not the shock piston rod (according to jon), and i don't think its the TC rod from what quicker240 mentioned, so I should either replace the whole strut assembly, or just get some kind of camber correction kit, or a combination of the two, right? Mom'sZ, wouldn't there be an insane binding problem if the spindle was bent? from what I remember, the spindle is shaped smaller at the outer end, but the taper occurs within the hub. So after an accident that would cause the outside part of the hub to go out of alignment with the inside of the hub... basically what i'm trying to say is, wouldn't a bent spindle be an obvious problem? Like not being able to spin that wheel at all? I need to decide what to do since I will be getting tires soon and I don't want a mad camber problem with new tires. -Oliver

Heres my story, I hit a curb a while ago, messing up my aluminum swastikas, and bending some of the suspension. I'm running the stock 14" steelies right now with some no name tires, but on the right front there is an excess of negative camber... I'm guessing that since I can tell there is alot of negative camber it must be somewhere More than -3* When I hit the curb, the right front wheel was the first thing to hit anything. Now that I have to funds to replace my broken swastikas and get better tires, I want to Correct this suspension problem. The right side of the car also sits about .5" lower than the left side. (hopefuly that will help someone make a diagnosis of what needs to be fixed.) Question section: I want to know If the camber is off because of a bent control arm, bent hub, bent shock absorber rod or anything else that could be going on. Should I replace the shocks first or just get camber plates or camber adjusting bushings? I want my new tires to not get lost in 300 miles because of the bad camber angle. What is causing my car to have such a bad camber angle? -Oliver

Today, after putting in my synthetic oil, I went for a test run to see if the car ran any differently. Well, I found this nice litle puddle of water that had trailed out about 10', so I did what any 18 yr old in a z would do with a puddle of water, and peeled out on it... But usually when I do this the tires just break smoothly and then gain traction again shortly. THIS time it felt like when my friends honda would wheel hop after a hard launch. I thought wheel hop was limited to front drive cars? I suspect my front diff mount is not in good condition, could this be the cause of the rumbling feeling I got from the car? -Oliver

ecotec... isn't that what they're putting in saturns now?

I'm starting to not want to do the v8 conversion anymore after changing the spark plugs on my friend's v6 camaro. It took me 2 1/2 hours! the most it would take anyone to change the plugs on an inline z would be about 20min. anyways, do you V8 guys have to pull the engine just to do simple maintenance? -Oliver

wow mike, thats some crazy stuff. Its cool to hear about members' lives outside of cars. I had no idea there was this much enthusiasm for biking on this board. It seems like the mentality would be all wrong, with such a large standardization on bike parts, and the complete opposite being done to cars on this board. Either way, i'm glad to hear about it! -Oliver

I would think welding in panels would be a smarter choice over fiberglassing. It would provide even more rigidity over the strenthening you've already done. -Oliver

i didn't mention that due the bad brakes, I ran into my friend who I was following a little to closely after he ate the dirt after a 2 foot drop. I have been showing off my scraped knee and the long scratch on my leg for the past 2 days jon, I'm definitely going to start building a mountainbike after I finish my all aluminum road bike project. (almost have all the parts) I have a problem of starting projects that don't get finished... (Z) -Oliver

I'm into road bikes mostly, but i also have had a mountainbike since I was 13 and never actually used the way it was intended. Well, yesterday I went out on a trail and it was fun! The best part was when our little group found a clearing in the forest/woods wtvr, with alot of dirt ramps and huge dropoff's and half pipes. I must say, this makes road biking look boring... except you go fast, but still, theres a big thrill in going up and down vertical ledges. I'm definitely get my mountainbike working correctly (brakes weren't up to par and the gears weren't easy to shift) can't wait to go out again! -Oliver

aight guys, Ted (thumper) has convinced me to do the switch to synthetics but I have a few questions. Do I go to the same weight as i'm using in natural oil? 10w-30 synthetic? What brands do you recommend? -please speak from experience, I'm worried about leaks I want to learn as much about synthetics as possible, so any "recommended reading" websites are welcome. thanks -Oliver

My airdam is similar to the one you are thinking of buying. Mine has blistered brake ducts and I have no Idea who makes it. I know its not msa though. If You find it cheap just buy it and try it on, It might look better than the one you saw in the pic.

get the azenis if you can.

That looks extremely portable to me compared with other roller dynamometers. That surface looks rather shiny, you probably should scuff it up abit or put some sort of traction aid on it so tires don't slip and give inaccurate readings. -Oliver

Went to the performance shop today and they recommended header wrap. I told them I heard about rusting out the header with it, and they said that since its a daily driver I won't have any problem because any moisture will just evaporate with the heat. (since its on everyday) Is there any material i could buy at lowes or home depot that would work like briann510 was saying, between the intake and exhaust but mostly on the intake?

I don't have the chinpan under the motor. My car didn't come with one. Should I install one? I'm vapor locking because I couldn't fit the heat shield with the headers, so I left it off. I'm thinking a header blanket should cure the problem. My car is not overheating. It's just vapor locking. And It hasn't done it in a while. I think what really helped was removing the rain gaurd from underneath the left louvre. Of course I removed the louvre too, but I'm trying to decide if I should put it back on. -Oliver

i have a fuel rail. And when I posted a while back about the problem, i said I had one but no one told me it would help with vaporlocking. Hmm... I'm going to have to install that bad boy now. Thanks! -Oliver Anyone have any input for the louvre?

Recently i took off my left hood louvre completely to help with my vapor locking problem. I want to know though, will putting the louvre back on suck more air out of the engine compartment when i'm moving or will having just a hole there move more air? thanks -Oliver

.040" overbore gives +.05L of displacement not .5L, we'd be talking about a 3.3L "bore-er" just tryin to give you a hard time ted...

bob, do you mind sharing how much these wheels were? Did they turn out cheaper than the konig rewinds? -Oliver

You might want to check the condition of your fussible links. My tach went went to zero a few times while I was autocrossing. Turned out to be the fussible links were not creating good contact with the connections. I replaced them with a glass type fuse block and soldered the connections. -Oliver

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=69977&highlight=turbo+wheel+widening http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96705 Uh oh i'm turning into one of those guys who responds to posts with links of other posts... am i getting old? -Oliver

ok... I'm just going to get the cable now. I didn't realize how simple the z pedal was. I might as well get the TB while I'm there and swap it all over. I think you can change the pulleys on the TB 180* so the cable will ride on the curved part. Not sure on that. Thanks for the post! very useful information! -Oliver

The brake rotor would not affect the offset of the wheel because they are bolted on to the back of the hub, not to the same face as the wheel. This rotor swaps seems like a little too much work compared with the 300zx rotor. -Oliver

well maybe if i had a turbo and a blowoff valve it would be another kind of noise i'd be reporting... but i don't. sorry. btw the smilies selection has grown!