510six

The only problem I have heard of with the ATI dampner is the small crank pully,this was compensated for with a small (2") alternator pully and a helper electric water pump that comes on just before the fans and helps to cool the motor down between drag runs with a battery box hooked up.For a small fee ATI will put a larger pully on the dampner.From a seat of the pants feel the motor is smoother a high rpm`s.

For 500 you can have a ATI dampner and I have used a NISMO dampner and the crank dampner bolt still came loose.With the ATI repeated HARD drag launches no problems so far.

ATI sells a comp dampner for the L series motor,I have had flywheel bolts back outand the dampner bolt back out.My motor was/is proffesionally ballanced, mabey it`s just the shock load of launching with slicks or even sticky Hoosier dirt track tires.Also if a L series motor is being revved past 7000 don`t forget the comp shaft/gear that turns the oil pump and dist.I busted a couple of gears before I stepped up. http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/products/dampers/charts/damnissan.htm

I used a N33 closed chamber head with VG30et pistons and ended up with a 9.2-1 compression ratio.It was perfect for the N/A nitrous motor.The VG30et and VG30dett both have the same pin heigth as the 240sx piston.What I like about the VG pistons is the 87mm bore esp. with a turbo or N20 motor a little thicker cyl. wall doesn`t hurt.The VG pistons have to be used with the 133mm 240z rods and the diesel crank.

You can also use VG30et pistons that are a 1mm overbore.I ran 80 10lb bottles of N20 on a set of VG30et pistons with an all stock parts bottom end with a 120hp shot to the wheels with no problems.If you are willing to have the rods prepped a set of VG30dett pistons will work and can handle 100hp per cyl.

I was planning on taking some of His car as I am going to the March Meets at Famoso Raceway outside Bakersfield, CA.You are going to have to wait a couple of weeks as the races are rained out and are being rescheduled for March 16-18. http://www.famosoraceway.com/

For the 1/4 mile I run a water/air IC that uses a 5 gallon insulated tank as the exchange unit as I don`t have space for anything else and it`s pretty cool having 70 * inlet temps on a 100* day.The setup can go through 20 lbs of ice for two 1/4 mile runs on a hot day.On a bad air day I make my own.For the street it`s methanol after 5psi.A air/air is definatly less complex and would add less weight on the street. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=15c7&.dnm=87f5.jpg http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=15c7&.dnm=5971.jpg

When my manifold outlet flange was welded , the unit was heated to 600* in an electric kiln then bolted to a Lseries head bolted on a welding table.Nickle 99 wire was used and I kept the manifold hot with a torch while the welding was being done.It didn`t warp. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=63ef&.dnm=8ffe.jpg A friends manifold was welded the same way ,a 60-1 turbo was used and an external wastegate flange was welded on.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=15c7&.dnm=8739.jpg&.src=ph I wouldn`t know anything about running around with N20 plumbing on the car in CA.What I do is put a plug when driving around in public,if your bright enough these days to hangout at the local drag racer funeral proccession line out to the races in CA then a tow by the cops is just desserts.

The N20 plumbing is legal in CA as long as the Nitrous bottle isn`t in the car.

http://www.coolingmist.com it will save a ton of headaches.

I think that would be a first class sleeper.

The car is currently down and in the process of a transition from SDS to AEM fuel injection and running a larger turbo and a methanol injection system as well as a larger Liquid/air IC.I want to drive the thing so bad... http://www.precisionturbo.net/turbochargers-display.php?company_id=101795&category_id=3026 630* SC-6152E 61mm 2.416" 3.227" 56 3" / 2" 360 Race 0.63 T350 2.920" 2.420" It`s the turbo that I am going to be putting on the car once it`s up and running.The other t3/t4 is going on a friends VW Bug.Should be a 10 sec bug after it`s finished,He`s looking to beat this car. http://www.cbperformance.com/cubsturbobug.asp http://www.aempower.com/product_ems.asp I hope to have the traction controll and a few other bugs worked out before summer.I want close to 550-575 rwh this time with a smaller shot of N20.

http://www.10000rpm.com I am using one of their twin disc kevlar drag race clutches.You might want to talk to them for what would work best for your application. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=15c7&.dnm=55c7.jpg&.src=ph

I have had 2 didgital 6 boxes fail for me over several years of using them.I would contact MSD as they will repair the unit at a a minimal cost or sell a refurbished unit for around 75 dollars or so.

The only reason I would recomend the T56 is if someone was going to put over 450rwh through a tranny.At the time I did my conversion it was the only practical tranny that could handle the kind of HP I wanted with a OD.It`s a lot of work to put a T56 into a zcar/510.It would be much easier and cheaper to go through the z32 adaptor route.If you have to have a T56 in your z I can put you in touch with the person who built my adaptor-bellhousing.

I bought a 82 pickup with a load of bent valves for a steal once(Napz 2.2 same type timing chain).A piece of trash in the oil pluged up the timimg chain tensioner and the chain skipped a couple links and bent the valves.I just picked a part some valves and lapped them in.Traded the truck to my Dad who sold it after putting almost a 100k on it.

Yes the manifold was cut apart ported them welded back together.My plan is to make 450-500rwh and supply the rest with N20.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=63ef&.dnm=4002.jpg&.src=ph A pic of a non EGR N42 that has been cut apart ported , welded back together and ceramic coated to provide a thermal barrier.

An RB and a L28 are right about the same length.The firewall would have to be massaged a bit.I would like to see pics of the setup.

On my old NA 3 liter N20 motor ,I ran 80 10lb bottles of nitrous through a all junkyard parts motor with a 120rwh shot that was race prepped in a year.My only concern on a L series motor is how the fuel distribution would be through the intake manifold.A wet shot with port nitrous would be safe on a L series provided that the system is tuned right and the proper safety systems are in place.

I was going to say, I would limit a single fogger shot to around 50rwh or you could take a serious chance of having some very rich and some very lean cylinders.But, a 50rwh shot on a turbo will make that thing spool right NOW....very entertaining.

As far as detonation goes, the main reason I am switching from a SDS efi system to an AEM EMS is the ability to run a programable knock sensor and the fact that the fuel for the N20 can be programmed to be enriched by the injectors.I not planning on running this motor on the ragged edge of detonation, just looking for every safeguard possible.I`m not ranking on SDS either it does what it does just fine.It can`t do what the AEM can. http://www.aempower.com/product_ems.asp

I have seen a set of pistons taken out of a 300zx tt Bonneville car, that had detonated so badly that dime size piece of aluminum were missing from the combustion chambers.The heads were uncoated the pistons were coated with CBX and the skirts had dry film lubricant on them.They were inspected and found to be undamaged , cleaned and reused in another motor.I know ceramic coating will not stop detonation, I have seen where it will momentarily prevent detonation from using the aluminum in the piston as fuel. I will try to get a few pictures of the damaged heads it was scary looking.

http://www.dragtimes.com I spent too much time browsing it.