510six

Next time the car goes to Famoso I will PM you. I will take video. http://www.famosoraceway.com/ Polian, you will have to start picking on V8's next.

That is a very clean setup,your idle quaility should improve greatly over the 150lb. units. What fuel pump(s) are you using to supply the dozen injectors?

Firewall cutting WILL be necessary and it willmake placement of the stock heater core assembly impossible in the stock location. It is major surgery cutting the firewall and then a new bellhousing tunnel will have to be fabricated, it is far from a simple bolt in. IMO placing a VG30 or using a Z24 engine with 5-6 psi of boost with a rear mount turbo would be a simpler and ultimately cheaper engine conversion. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/15744-620-vg-conversion/

I want a ride

The main drawbacks to an air/ water cooler are the added complexity of having the added exchange radiator and coolant pump this also adds weight and remember to factor in the coolant/water at 8.36lbs a gallon. That said some years ago I had a liquid/air IC in my 510 due to space contraints with a 5 gallon tank that would be filled with icewater in the trunk, it would turn 20 lbs of ice into warm water in four 1/4 mile runs on hot days .The plus side was that on a 100+ degree day my air temps at idle with 112* track temps were 69*F adding a 200 hp shot of N20 (chemical intercooler) didn't hurt. Most liquid/air IC setups I see are due to space constraints and better results IMO could be obtained from an air/air IC and methanol injection, on a street setup.

Early N42 heads have external spray bars, if used with a hollow camshaft a turbo oil pump must be used to provided enough oil to both the cam oiling systems.

On my setup a Davies Craig water pump is used as a "helper" pump, when in 6th gear on the freeway at about 70-75 mph (1700rpm) the coolant temp would rise. The electric helper pump solved this problem as well as being able to cool the motor down between drag race runs without running the motor. The car also runs consitantly cooler in stop and go traffic on hot days and it controlled by the AEM EMS to active at 185 *. I lost a fan belt once due to a bearing locking up the alternator, the car was able to make it 10 miles home due to the electric water pump. As far as the timing issue goes, years ago when running a 82zx N/A distributor with a turbo motor and using a MSD boost timing master for retard an issue was found to be excessive side to side play affecting timing +/- 3*-5* . This was corrected by replacing the stock bushing with one made out of aerospace plastic . The scattered timing problem was solved and 36* of timing was possible off boost.

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsHONDA.asp They should be able to help you. It would be cheaper to buy a barbed fuel rail than to put rebuilt 11mm 0 ringed injectors in. The 11mm injectors are typically used in Honda/Mitsubishi applications.

"The website you refered to only sells gt style turbos." You have to talk to Limit Engineering, they don't list the plain bearing turbos on the website, but trust me they sell them. They have great customer service and excellent quality turbos + the water cooled bearing is a no cost option. When a T67 spools to full boost there is NO doubt you are in boost. There is no need to have the compressor housing machined, just order the turbo with a anti surge housing.

Yes, it is an anti surge housing. IMO, http://www.limitengineering.com/ is who I would purchase a plain bearing T67 from, ask to talk to Chopper and explain your application. They can help with proper wastegate selection as well.

Currently, my car has a T67 T3 bb turbo from Precision Turbo on a 3 liter stroker with a ported head and a WEB turbo cam . With the bb turbo the turbo spools by 3500 rpm with a plain bearing T67 the same setup spooled at just under 4k.Until the 3 liter is rebuilt I am running the same turbo on a bone stock N/A L28 at 7-8 psi and it spools @ 4k or so with a stock N42 head and cam. The T67 plain bearing with a .82 exhaust housing and a stage 5 wheel should spool by 4 k and work just fine on an L28et. I have been very happy with how the T67 performs and plan on making 500rwh with it (shouldn`t be a problem). T67 with 17 psi, the clutch slipped at 18 psi or 500 rwh would have happened at 22 psi or so.

Not a z car, but an L motor. Drove the car 90 miles round trip that day.

You will have to "eyebrow" the 240 block to clear the larger valves in the N42 head.

Sounds like a problem everyone should have...too much horsepower.

So when do I get a ride? BTW the car sounded great when I was there.

Are you planning on running the motor in N/A or turbo application?

Nitrous , is a great intercooler and produces great power on turbo motors when properly set up. However, I opened up a liquid/air IC like a can of tuna when a connector to the nitrous fuel pump failed, it also did very bad things to the motor.

The Madison is ridden on a regular basis, when the 100* heat breaks here it will be more. The Gold Series Paramount is an all Campy C record bike and hangs in a friends shop.

I have a 86 Schwinn Madison that I bought new in 87 and a Single Speed Ventana Mountain Bike that has been converted to city commuter. Been riding and racing fixed gear bikes for over 20 years and really enjoy them.

I want to know when I get a ride.

That is kind of a loaded question, first I would hope that some safety equipment is used for the nitrous. Full throttle switch, RPM window switch, clutch switch ect. What I can say is that if you spray right off the line the turbo should spool instantly esp. with a 50 shot. Using a purge would be a good idea as it ensures that liquid nitrous is at the N20 solenoid and a rich condition is not present when the nitrous is engaged. You will probably pick up a few tenths provided traction is avalable.

One is the port nitrous solenoid and one is the purge. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrous

My L series 3 Liter uses VG30ET style pistons , the piston maker is BRC and if you PM me I will give you my information which should work fine for your application.

My first serious L series six was an all JY parts 3 liter with 100k core motor VG30det pistons and a cleaned up N33 head and a MSA header. The motor with 10 to 1 compression survived 80 10lb bottles of N20 over a year with no ill results, this was a NOS port nitrous kit and a 120rwh shot. It worked great and netted a 12.55@110 with crappy Bosch CIS injection on California 91 oct. The second motor was a "built" 3 liter with forged VG30det pistons (87.25mm) , aftermarket cunningham rods and a small and mild T4 turbo, with the same nitrous kit. However the 120rwh shot turned into an over 200rwh shot on the non intercooled (alcohol, water injection) and this was the best result. What I would suggest is using a smaller bore than the 89mm from the 3.1 and using a maxium of 88mm using a VG30 style piston as the nitrous will cause a thin wall cylinder bore to distort in a similar manner to large boost. The stock prepped 240z 9mm prepped rods should be fine provided ARP bolts are used. Using the sidedrafts a port nitrous kit is a given, here is a pic of the hard lines on my N42 manifold. What I see as the problem, provided the motor is built like you stated is not the motor holding up but grenading transmissions and clutches and finding drivetrain weakness. Personally, I think it would be a very cool build , provided all of the safety measures for the nitrous are in place.

Just got through bending the hard lines around the E85 fuel rail, 3/16" steel tubing was used. Having the right equipment at a friends shop made the job, while not easy at least possible. I am happy with how the N20 lines and solenoid mounting turned out. Summit 37* flare kit http://www.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/Summit-37-Degree-Flare-Tool-Sets http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W703/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NOS-15991NOS/