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Everything posted by 510six
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After talking with my engine builder/fuel injection guru. E85 is avalable less than 3 miles from the house and E85 is not as corrosive as methanol and will require a simpler (and cheaper) fuel system. The main reason methanol was used was it`s high octain value and high latent heat of evaporation , ethanol has a lower octain rating and a correspondingly lower ability to take heat out of the intake charge. However, as I am not using an intercooler( I should say I am using a chemical rather than a physical intercooler) E85 at 100% actually should cool better than the 35% methanol currently being used. E85 is also 105 octain which is actually better than the numbers with 35% methanol. This is a sample datalog with the T67 @ 14 psi, it show the air temps dropping below 50* on an 80* day.
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My brother owned an 810 some years ago with the same problem. What I did to fix it was to mount an injector/fuel rail cooling fan from a 280zx, wired it up using a thermostatically controlled switch . The car never had hot starting problems again.
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N42 Block , O ringed 88mm BRC coated pistons 133mm Cunningham I beam rods Diesel crank N42 Head pro- ported, stainless valves, 1mm oversized exhaust. WEB Cam (secret specs), MLS head gasket N42 non EGR manifold , cut apart ported and welded together, ceramic coated Stock Exhaust manifold with turbo outlet relocated , ported and ceramic coated AEM EMS with custom wiring harness T56 six speed with custom adaptor and Rockland Standard Gear 750rwh drag kit 10,000 rpm tripple disc 750rwh drag clutch Six 72lb injectors(gasoline) , two 160lb injectors (methanol) TO4S T67 with .82 with p trim wheel, ball bearing. 427rwh 434 fpt @17psi http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134 Looking for 500rwh and 30mpg using 240cc and 1600cc injectors using gasoline and methanol , from two seperate fuel systems.
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My initial plans were to run 1000cc injectors on the "main" fuel rail and run 70% E85 and 30% methanol. Running six 1600cc injectors ensures proper fuel distribution . As for the cost it would cost more to alter the "main' fuel system to run the E85 than modify the methanol system to run 6 injectors rather than two. My fuel system is basically a copy of a friends with an H22 Honda VTEC turbo motor in a Del Sol who also uses AEM.
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"If your EMS can controll the duty cycle at idle, why would switching to smaller injecters help at idle? Should be able to run 17-1+ AFR on cruise already." The larger the injector the more difficult it becomes to modulate idle quaility, I am talking about 72lb and larger fuel injectors. http://www.sdsefi.com/injectors.htm I am planning on using 240cc Honda high impedence injectors on the 'main" fuel rail and controlling the additional six 1600cc low impedence with a AEM injector driver. http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=83 http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/PartsJPEGs/Injectors/0280150947Blue_8.jpg All I am really doing now is using 91 oct. with large injectors and adding methanol as boost comes up,what I plan on doing is adding more methanol under boost and using lower octain gasoline. The methanol will be bought in 55 gallon drums and is used only when in boost with my current 3 gallon fuel cell using boost often the methanol will last for about 3 tanks of gas. With 3 times more methanol being used I expect a 1-1 ratio.
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Currently , the L28/30 stroker uses a dual fuel system with 35% of the total fuel being methanol provided via two 1600cc injectors on the intake tubing. The "main" fuel system is gasoline (crappy CA 91 oct) with six 72lb injectors , the car at 17 psi with the T67 makes 440rwh and about 440 fpt and delivers 24-25 mpg on the freeway. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134 The new system will use either 370cc or 240cc injectors on the main gasoline fuel rail, and the fuel milage and idle will improve with the smaller injectors and 87 rather than 91 oct can be used. A second stainless steel fuel rail using six 160lb methanol compatable injectors will be used with two Bosch 044 pumps providing the fuel from a 3 gallon plastic fuel cell. The fuel will switch from gasoline to methanol under boost thanks to the secondary injector control from the AEM EMS which also provides sequetial injection to the main fuel rail. This should provide better power under boost with no intercooler being needed and being able to lean the mixture to 15-1 or so for highway travel and with the .50 overdrive from the six speed should give impressive mileage. 500 rear wheel horsepower with 20-22 psi with the T67 using 90% methanol under boost shouldn`t be a problem as over 440 rwh was possible with 35% methanol. At the drag strip a small shot of nitrous will be used to make 600 rwh or so. http://www.msdfuelinjection.com/efi_accessories.html
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"Where the money "ought to go" is a political discussion that has no place in this thread - sorry." I agree, the option of using E85 is viable as there is a station about 3 miles from my house. The plan was to run 1000cc injectors on the main fuel rail with E85 and being supplimented with 30% methanol via two 160lb injectors under boost. Since the methanol is my intercooler the decision to run six 1600cc injectors and take full advantage of the better cooling properties and the higher octain of methanol was made. __________________
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Actually, I am running a dual fuel system now using 100% methanol with two 160lb fuel injectors in the intake track providing 35% of the total fuel under boost. Having run methanol for over a year now what I would strongly suggest is using Klozt Uplon with any alcohol based fuel and only using "black or grey" hard anodized military spec AN fittings, stainless steel hard fuel lines and teflon braided AN lines. A plastic or stainless fuel cell is manditory , for a fuel pump the Bosch 044 unit has been flawless and Mallory makes a alcohol compatable EFI regulator that works fine as well. 444 rwh @ 17 psi . The next step is running 90% methanol under boost using 6 160lb methanol compatable injectors on the fuel rail . Then running 37lb vs the 72lb injectors on the gasoline fuel system this should do several things, first the car should idle better the second is that 87 oct can be used the third is when driving normally fuel milage should be improved. 30 mpg on the freeway with the six speed should be obtainable. Did I mention that the new motor being built will be 9-1 compression and over 500 rwh is the goal on the street. The same could be done with E85 provided that care is selected in both tuning and fuel system components.
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A friend of mine is looking into making a T56 Adaptor that would work with any late model Nissan automatic transmission bellhousing. I currently have a T56 behind a L30 stroker with a T67 turbo and The L30 works great in sixth gear above 70mph on the freeway, the L30 is a very torquey motor and would pull sixth easier than a RB26. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134
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It would depend on the HP level you are looking to produce. A fuel pump that is just feeding a surge tank will flow more fuel than rated, a standard 255lph intank pump will work fine suppling fuel to a surge tank. If your looking for a budget "main" fuel pump CB performance sells a external high flow pump that works quite well for a decent price. http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1246 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D250103&N=700+4294836951+400304+115&autoview=sku My setup uses a 70gph intank pump feeding a surge tank that feeds an Aeromotive Tsunami fuel pump the Aeromotive fuel pump uses AN fittings and provides enough fuel to make over 500 rwh.
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I used bars leak on a cracked N47 L28 some years ago coming back from Colorado to California. It didn`t stop the leak but it slowed it down and corro check airless paint sprayer corrosion inhibitior was added to the water I was using as coolant. The car made it to California and a N42 head was put on that bottom end and was used for several years in a friends 240.
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Polian, isn`t your motor an LS6? We will have to trade rides once I get my 510 back together.
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Using a CDI ignition I gap my plugs at .28, but on a smaller turbo with less boost .30-.32 should be fine.
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First I would run at least a NGK BR8ES with a 8.5 compression ratio.My 3 liter turbo motor has a 8.5 compression and 24* of total advance using 35% methanol as my "total' fuel, detonation is non existant( confirmed by datalog from the AEM EMS) and off boost response is great. I would imagine even with a very basic methanol/water injection kit that it would do wonders to eliminate detonation. On my previous setup an old school Spearco water/methanol injection kit was used with 8.3 compression ratio running 12 psi on a CT26 turbo wasn`t a problem even without an intercooler.
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It won`t work without custom pistons as the L24 rods are 3mm Longer than L28 units. Ending up with pistons coming 3mm out of the top of the bore.
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More pressure would be better for the nitrous, I am just not sure at what rate the regulator for the carbs raises fuel pressure in proportion to boost.
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You would still end up having to use two regulators, a port on the return style regulator to a "dead end' regulator to the carbs (it all depends on how much of a fuel pressure increase to the carbs as boost pressure rises). Then run the nitrous fuel solenoid return style, you are still looking at needing higher fuel pressure for the nitrous than for the carbs. You are actually better off having more than 5-7 psi as it promotes better fuel atomization.
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The safest way to run wet nitrous is to have a seperate fuel pump, regulator and lines feeding the fuel solenoid. Using a return style regulator with the nitrous is good idea as it ensures that a lean condition is not created from fuel boiling out of the fuel line before the solenoid is activated.This is especially true with a non crossflow turbo motor.
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Running a single wet fogger into your airbox is an almost sure way of having a cyl run lean ,running lean on nitrous is never a good thing. The safest way is a direct port , as for the fuel system if you have a return style regulator and use a dead end style regulator for the carbs you can run one pressure for the nitrous and 3.5 for the carbs.
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I know ATI listed an application for a VH45, you might want to talk with them. http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/products/dampers/charts/damnissan.htm http://www.cardomain.com/ride/563982/3
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http://www.witchhunter.com/ They returned my injectors in short order and flow tested and rebuilt them for 18 an injector.
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My previous setup had a air/icewater IC with a 5 gallon tank in the trunk of my 510, worked great for drag strip duties 20 lbs of ice could be made into hot water in four 1/4 mile runs. You would be better off with a air/air frontmount and a shot of methanol for street duties. Still there was nothing like 105* air temps and 68* intake air at the drag strip in the summer.
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Intake mani porting...too much for a newb?
510six replied to Calgary280ZT's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
My engine builder has used the Techline ceramic coating and dry film lubricant to most of the internal parts of the engine. I used a bottle of CBX coating that a friend had given me to coat the inside and outside of the manifold, I used a modified airbrush and a small gravity feed touch up spray gun to apply the coating. The manifold was then baked and polished with 000 steel wool. http://www.techlinecoatings.com/TechnicalInformation.htm I don`t have any comparative dyno numbers to prove the worth of the coatings, what I do notice is that the motor cools down much faster than without the coatings.I did use a laser thermometer and the coated intake manifold was about 40* cooler than a friends turbo motor with uncoated intake and exhaust manifolds , the heat shield was coated as well.This was after a very spirited drive. -
All of the stock L28 cam, oil/dist drive gears will fit on the V07 crank.
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Intake mani porting...too much for a newb?
510six replied to Calgary280ZT's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
If I was going to port a stock intake the non EGR N42 would be the one to use. The non EGR N42 manifold on my setup was cut apart , ported and welded back together .It was then ceramic coated inside and out , so far the intake has flowed well enough to make 430 rwh before the clutch slipped on the dyno. http://www.techlinecoatings.com/TechnicalInformation.htm