510six

Do the keyways look like this? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131080&highlight=diesel+crank If so you should be fine.

You could do a Blow through 4 barrell with a stock turbo manifold. http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=51153.0

A 810 could be quite the sleeper.

Mounted and wired a Chevy LT1 Camero secondary electric smog pump modified to draw crankcase blowby under boost. The pump is wired to activate along with the supplimental injector fuel pump. When the pump was tested it sounded like a mini shop vac. The car was smoother coming up on boost and the car doesn`t smoke after boost like it had done before. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/234420-crankcase-evacuation-lt1-smog-pump-how.html

Personally, running a T04S bb T67 @ 14psi , 400rwh is PLENTY of horsepower on the street and it spools at 3500 rpm. It`s about the largest turbo I would want to run on a streetable L stroker.

I had flywheels bolts backing out under high rpm on a 3 liter stroker, the problem was caused by crankshaft harmonics at over 6k rpm. The problem was solved using a NISMO comp dampner. Currently a ATI dampner is used on my current 3 liter , the ATI unit was a PITA to setup on a street car as there are easier and cheaper to live with dampners.

Both are 1/8 NPT if you buy a "street T" at a hardware store you can connect both items. http://www.sealexcel.com/street-tee.html

Look at the adaptor to the VH45de to T56 .The LS1 T56 even in stock form is a very robust transmission and can be upgraded to handle 1200 hp. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/563982/2

I pulled one out myself the last time changing oil (Radio Shack rare earth magnet JB welded to the drain plug). It was a royal PITA used a 2' pair of hemostats to get another spring back in and the tensioner in place while a friend took the slack off the chain.

Model Restrictions: For L-Series engines only. Not for use with smog pumps, power steering, or air conditioning. If your not worried about, power steering, AC , should work fine.The timing marks allow for up to 20* of timing adjustment, you will have to manually check and verify TDC.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PRC16/10-2455 A little pricey, but it should work, or you could go with a copper gasket. http://www.headgasket.com/

The 240mm clutch wear surface and the bolts that clamp the pressure plate down will not line up. You will need a 240mm pressure plate.

I would pretty much copy the build I am doing right now . AEM EMS ,ball bearing T67 the methanol injection is two 1600cc injectors in the intake track and a 50-75 shot of port dry N20.Managed to stay up with a GSXR 600 in a roll with 17 psi with the T67, I couldn`t be happier with it. If I was going to do a draw tru or blow thru carb setup, I would suggest talking to http://www.candsspecialties.com/index.html

The very first 3 liter that was built for me used all JY parts and a N33 JDM only head the car was setup using Volvo V6 CIS injection, which is about as restrictive as the L series AFM EFI. After setting up and doing some initial tuning with SDS and a very primitive datalogging program and a friend doing some cleanup work on the head and intake manifold the car felt like it picked up 40 hp.The car did go from running 14.6 with the CIS to 14.0 with the SDS and a slightly bigger cam.I would imagine with the 100 rwh shot of nitrous (12.5 with the CIS injection)that was on the car at the time it could have touched 11`s. But a head gasket "gave up" and I decided to go with a turbo motor and havn`t looked back. Years later I was talked into using an AEM EMS , so the SDS and a modified stock dist. and a MSD BTM went on a friends car that was using a 75 ECU an FMU and locked timing. The difference was quite dramatic, the car was smoother got much better mileage and was faster.

That`s pretty pricy for a GT35r http://www.limitengineering.com/gt-35-full.jpg'>http://www.limitengineering.com/gt-35-full.jpg http://www.limitengineering.com/ I would contact Limit Engineering and get a price for a GT35r , I have a plain bearing T67 that they built with a .82 exhaust housing with a stage V wheel that spooled at under 4k.It was about a third of the cost of the GT35r and will better the 35`s horsepower numbers. Currently I have a ball bearing T04S T67 with a T3 .82 exhaust housing with a P trim and It spools at about 3500 rpm from Precision Turbo and I couldn`t be happier with it and when it spools @ 14 psi with the L stroker motor ----hold on.

The trailing arm suspension on your zx is very similar to the one in my 510 and I think your more liable to scoop asphalt with the rear bumper than bring the front wheels off the ground.The rear trailing arms tend to "toe" out on launch and don`t work quite as well as a z cars A arms on a drag launch.

Be aware that the ATI crank pully diameter on the crank is only about 2.5" and for anything other than a pure drag race/road race car a larger crank pully will be needed. A custom 5.25" pully was fabricatednby a machinist friend that incorporated the 12 tooth wheel for the ignition VR sensor. I would use the dampner with the larger crank pully for a street car.

If the catch can is solving your problem I would stick with it, I don`t want to take the chance of oil ending up in my turbo inlet. The pump "should" be the right solution for me as for the very low tension oil rings being used. It will be a couple of weeks before I am able to install the pump.

I am having the same problem with my setup, although it is because very low tension oil rings were used. The solution is going to be to run a Camero LT1 electric smog pump and activate it with the same output from the AEM EMS used to run the methanol pump. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/234420-crankcase-evacuation-lt1-smog-pump-how.html

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/234420-crankcase-evacuation-lt1-smog-pump-how.html I am going to use an LT1 smog pump in conjunction with an aircraft style air/oil seperator to control crankcase pressure under boost and run the pump for 10 or so seconds after boost using an output from the AEM EMS to turn the pump on and a time delay relay to keep it running. I will let you know what the results are in the next couple of weeks.

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=46 http://www.emp-corp.com/media/SAEPapers/2005-01-1380.pdf http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=ElectPump One thing that I have notices is after ceramic coating the pistons the in/ex ports and manifolds, the motor "sheds" heat much faster than it did previous to the ceramic coatings.

http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=ElectPump'>http://www.emp-corp.com/media/SAEPapers/2005-01-1380.pdfhttp://www.stewartcomponents.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=ElectPump http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=ElectPump Interesting reading, although I wouldn`t use a Davies Craig electric water pump as a primary pump one is used as a "helper" pump in my current setup.It is controlled by the AEM EMS and activates with the secondary fan control.Works great, the car doesn`t heat up sitting in traffic in the summer like it used to with the stock pump. An added side benifit is that the pump can be run as a cooldown pump between runs at the drag strip , with the electric system using a jump starter box it doesn`t drain the main battery and with a water cooled turbo bearing the car cools pretty quickly and is ready for the next run.

Running (1) one single fogger in the L28 intake with an over 75 rwh shot is asking for trouble. The stock L28 throttle body, cam and intake manifold are going to limit peak horsepower even with nitrous to around 5000 rpm, the stock exhaust manifold is even worse. I don`t know if a motor will live a "few" runs under nitrous, first if you don`t have a way of checking A/F ratio you have no idea if your running lean. Even using a narrowband O2 sensor is better than nothing (the first large shots of nitrous setup for my motor were tuned with a narrowband 02 and an EGT gauge, this was before less than 1500 dollar widebands). http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG2986&N=700+115&autoview=sku Secondly, if there is a weak spot in your motor, headgasket, rings, clutch, U joints, you are going to find them in a hurry. I will never forget the feeling of the first 100rwh shot (later a 120 rwh)on my L28 stroker, the motor and nitrous setup (port wet shot done right) had about as much invested in it as a decent L28et swap into a 240z and with the bottle on ,the equal of any stock turbo L28et.

I probably have about a grand into my current system, to do everything in a "safe" manner should cost at least that much. The problem is that a nitrous motor can rev faster than can be caught with the throttle esp. in lower gears. I would at least use an rpm switch to deactivate the nitrous at higher rpm http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-830449 I used two of these in my first nitrous system to act as a window switch.I would also use a clutch switch as a micro switch would be all that would be needed.Both of these items together should cost less than $75. I would also use good NGK plugs and gap them to .28 if a CDI box is not going to be used. A CDI box with a rev limter can be had for under $175. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D850600&N=700+115&autoview=sku You could buy a used bottle heater http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NX-Nitrous-Express-Bottle-Heater-Element-Used-NR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33740QQihZ006QQitemZ160201038582QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW A pressure switch could be had used as well http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NX-Nitrous-Express-Bottle-Pressure-Transducer-NR_W0QQitemZ160201039186QQihZ006QQcategoryZ33740QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I have rarely seen good things happen when shortcuts are taken using nitrous.

How much N20 you planning to squeeze? Should be entertaining on the turbo motor.