510six

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1650426&postcount=7 Surge is an area of flow instability typically caused by compressor inducer stall. It's when the compressor is at a higher pressure than the compressor can generate under it's current conditions. This causes airflow in the compressor housing to back up and stall. As a result, pressure drops allowing normal airflow until pressure builds back up and stall again occurs. Extreme compressor surge is one of the worst things that can happen to your turbo. It results in a sharp and violent oscillation of the compressor wheel which 99% of the time takes out the turbo thrust bearing. Surge is not a good thing. This is the anti surge compressor housing on my T67, it helps to prevent surge at low rpm. http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1978506&postid=27803783 Shot at 2007-07-16

My setup has 3 type K thermocouples on a stock 280zxt manifold, it uses one in the exhaust stream of #1 cyl and #6 cyl to determine if #1 cyl is running lean when the methanol injection is on.The AEM is able to dattalog both in real time and they are within 15* of one another at full boost.The wideband only has the ability to sample the mixture downstream from all the cyls.It`s a really nice tuning aid to have. The third themocouple goes to the Autometer gauge.I found some really nice 1/8 npt Themocouples that work well and take up a fraction of the space of an Autometer or a stock AEM unit. http://redlinegauges.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=20&dfwtekid=6770aac693360d3ad4c671819929c982 http://www.dynojet.com/automotive_dyno/option_ThermocoupleAMP.html http://webstore.o2simulator.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2 The 02 simulator unit works well and the price was right to integrate a 0-5v signal to my AEM Dattalogger.

I can remeber getting flamed when I metioned that a friend had several new 12-1 slot wheels for the Nissan and Mitsubishi CAS for AEM systems to reduce timing errors.It was a huge part of the reason I went with a Modified 12 tooth EDIS wheel and a Ford Cam position sensor.As a result (knock on wood) no timing errors.The friend may have some modified wheels left if anyone is interested PM me.

https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/T56_Order.html http://www.rsgear.com/RacePerformancefiles/frame.htm Both of these companies will convert your electronic speedo drive to mechanical.

How impressed are you with the AEM EMS?BTW those are great # for such a low boost level.I would be happy with those #`s on my L series with 20 psi and the T67.

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=47094.0 I am planning on converting my car over to E85 when it becomes avalable in my area.The results from the methanol injection sold me on methanol, the plan is to run E85 in the primary fuel sytem and suppliment with 35% methanol as the boost comes up.I am not planning on saving the world ,just running 105 octain fuel out of the pump is my idea of a good time.

The transmission of choice was entirely based on the amount of HP it could handle.The T56 could handle the shock loads I was planning on putting through it.

First off I am looking for a reputable turbo rebuilder for a Precision T67 ball bearing turbo.The turbo has less than 3000 street miles on it and has always has a clean and sufficent oil supply.This turbo has started to smake after less than 2000 street miles and has already been sent back to Precision for a "rebuild" after re installing the turbo on my car (a real PITA) it smoked again.Before the turbo was sent back to Precision it was ran on a staionary engine with a water brake to confirm that the turbo was at fault and not a faulty valve seal or other mechanical failure in the engine.I do not want to send the turbo back to Precision only to have the car down for a long period of time only to have a street/strip turbo smoke yet again.

http://www.turbophile.com/technical/diy_catch_can.html It really sounds like you need a air/oil seperator. Mine is very similar to the one pictured with the exception of having my vent run to the fenderwell and using two 5/8 lines.One from the valve cover and the other directly from the stock crankcase ventilation line.This will allow any blowby to be sent to the catch can and then returned to the oil pan.

Don`t forget AEM

I will post my old dyno with a large shot of N20 and a small T4 turbo. 535 rwh and 469 fpt .I am hoping for 500rwh and another hundred or so on a small shot of N20 .

First, are you sure your turbo`s oil seal is good.This will only appear when letting off the throttle after boosting.A friend who is an aircraft mechanic made a aircraft style air/oil seperator and it has eliminated any blowby problems assosiated with boost. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ep/airoilseparators.html

The engine builder who built my 3 liter has a race prepped bottom end already built .It`s Raver Motorsports in Visalia California you can PM me for the info.And Dennis, welcome to the dark side.

No, crappy 91 octain California gas is the primary fuel.The methanol is added as 35% of my total fuel begining at 4psi of boost and ramping up to 40% at boost levels past 10psi.All I was saying is I am using 1600cc fuel injectors to add the methanol and an EFI fuel pump and regulator that are methanol compatable.If your EFI system will allow you could run 8 fuel injectors 6 at the primary fuel rail and two upstream to act as a chemical intercooler.My Methanol system is a copy of one that AEM engineers have been working on that allows the intercooler to be removed as the methanol injectors facing upstream cool the intake charge better than an air/air intercooler.I can PM you my dattalogs if you would like...it`s a pretty dramatic reduction in intake temps.With methanol as the primary fuel as well I would expect an even greater reduction in intake temps.

"I'm talking straight up methanol injection out of the tank to the engine thru 1600CC injectors" I am running strait up methanol from the tank using 1600cc fuel injectors, the system has it`s own fuel cell , pump and regulator just like any other EFI system.And yes I am getting more power with the same boost setting due to the reduction in intake temps and the methanol doesn`t seem to be any laggier than gasoline and thats with 40% of my total fuel as methanol.

I Run methanol as a secondary fuel using the secondary injector control to add octain and cool the intake charge using two 1600cc Bosch motorsport injectors and AEM EMS. I also use Klotz Uplon to reduce the corrosive properties of methanol,the stuff works. http://www.daytonaexoticcars.com/popup/KL-107.pdf This chart explained the ratio using methanol as a primary fuel. http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wblambda.htm I am planning on converting my fuel system to run E85 ethanol as a primary fuel and adding methanol as boost comes up.This should allow for more timing due to cooler intake temps and increased octain.I am just waiting for E85 to be avalable in my area .My dattalogs have shown a temperature reduction from 140* to under 60* using methanol under boost. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134

I would contact http://sanfrancisco.citysearch.com/profile/999752/?brand=smx_yp-nc as they do the speedo conversion kits for JTR.Otherwise it`s time to upgrade to an electronic speedometer.

I know for a fact they are good for at least 300 rwh.In the JWT kits they claim 450 flywheel HP, personally I think 320 rwh would be pushing it with these injectors.

I ran over 200 hard drag launches on slicks with 500+ rwh before a bone stock T56 from a 98 Camero needed to be rebuilt.A stock T56 is one strong transmission.

If you would like the contact information of the people who helped with the adaptor bellhousing PM me.

http://www.damperdoctor.com/ If you just looking to have a stock damper rebuilt Damper Doctor would be a viable option.For a high performance appication the best damper I have used is the ATI unit, but a larger pully will either have to be fabricated as the standard pully is for continual high rpm operation and is very small.

If your looking for a durable 6 speed a T56 can be upgraded to handle over a 1000hp.I have a Rockland Standard Gear 750hp kit in my T56 with an adaptor bellhousing to an L series motor.You could have a similar bellhousing made from a Z31 T5 bellhousing and use Nissan clutch pieces.It is easier to have a custom clutch disc made than to change input shafts.Holding 800 hp is something that no stock type clutch will do, a twin disc unit will have to be used. http://www.rsgear.com/RacePerformancefiles/frame.htm

I would make sure that valve relifes are machined in the pistons.You might decide you would like to run a large turbo cam at a later date.For my turbo motors WEB is the cam maker that I have used and have been very happy with. http://www.webcamshafts.com/

For 300rwh and for 150 the CB Performance pump isn`t a bad deal. http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1246 Your not really looking at making really large horsepower numbers, even a Volvo 740 turbo fuel pump would work just fine. The VDO boost gauge they sell is less than $30 https://secure.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1198

Before you spend big bucks for an Aeromotive fuel pump(I have an Aeromotive pump on my car and it works great).You can use a Bosch 044 pump and a Mallory MAA-4305M EFI regulator. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MAA%2D4305M&N=700+4294925239+115&autoview=sku http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch-044-Fuel-Pump-240-JX6-Scirocco-Calibra-Jaguar-New_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33555QQihZ019QQitemZ290080826054QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Here is another fuel pump option http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1246 and another fuel pressure regulator option,I used one of these units on my motor with a small T4 and it worked fine with 275 rwh. http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=318