510six

It would depend on what horsepower level your looking to make.

A Magnum Powers stage 3 kit was used on a bone stock engine with headgasket upgrade and made 335 rwh and 390 fpt. For a big heavy pig of a car it gets out of it`s own way. The weak link after the headgaskets in these car is the transmissions which tend to grenade if sticky tires are used with a heavy duty clutch.If it were a choice between the AOD and the Mazda 5 speed, I would choose the AOD.

Before I went to a pair of CT20`s from a tt Supra, I would seriously look at using a pair of CT26`s . They can make a little over 300 hp in stock form, I made 275 rwh on a single CT26 @ 12 psi with an L28 stroker. A friend of mine can get stock CT26`s from a local JAP-engine exchange at a decent price.If planning on sticking with the stock T3`s they could be upgraded to make the horsepower level you desire. http://www.gpopshop.com/upgrades.html

My uncle is a T Bird SC nut and owns three of them, one is hottrodded with a larger intercooler, MAF,TB, injectors ,exhaust and the supercharger was rebuilt and blueprinted. Ford actually addressed the headgasket issue in later model 3.8 V6 engines going to a multi-layer stainless gasket.My uncles engine was upgraded with the later model headgaskets and has continued to run very strong for several years now.The earlier gaskets were prone to failure, even in non SC 3.8 Ford engines .My GF (now wife) 3.8 V6 Cougar HG failed at around 100k miles, talk about a major PITA.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D850604&N=700+4294925143+400304+4294925127+115&autoview=sku Nitrous like boost tends to want to "blow" out the spark due to higer cylinder pressures so a CDI ignition is a good idea, a CDI ignition with a rev limiter and a window switch built in is even a better idea. The rev limiter is due to the fact that in lower gears the motor will rev more than fast enough to float the valves on a L series( ask me how I know). The window switch is a good idea because it allows the nitrous to be activated at only though a specified rpm range . Timing should be retarded 2* for every 50 hp , this can be done by rearding timing at the distributor or though a external timing retard.I would wire a full throttle switch and a clutch switch(the second rev limit can be wired to this as well, now you have a staging rev limiter). The stock fuel rail and return should be fine although I would upgrade to a turbo or a larger fuel pump. The stock EFI manifold tends to starve cylinder #1 and #2 when using a single fogger with a wet system. I follwed the advise of several friends who had correctly setup nitrous , the results were that the system worked so well that the motor had 80 10lb. bottles of nitrous run though it in a year with no ill results ( until I got really greedy). The same nitrous system was used in conjunction with a turbo motor with a very small T4 turbo and lasted for a couple of hundred hard drag runs before a defective electrical conector failed and the motor went lean. A pic of a port N20 setup on an L series http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?bg=FFFFFF&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2071000-2071999/2071134_14_full.jpg This is a basic overview of what a safe nitrous system should include. http://www.go-fast.org/z28/new_to_nitrous.html

My first external power adder on an L series was a 80 whp N20 shot on an all junkyard parts 3 liter, the car ran mid 12`s with a not so efficient Volvo(Bosch) CIS injection. The setup was a wet port due to my concerns that a single fogger would not distribute the fuel evenly to all cylinders with an L series EFI manifold. I ran the same setup when a CT26 turbo was used on a "built" motor with SDS and ran consistant low 11`s and even touched the 10`s. Today a 100hp dry shot controlled by an AEM EMS is used to spool a T67 turbo at the track. L motors are pretty tough in stock form provided proper safety provisions are taken using nitrous.

There have been a flood of inferior Chinese made Walbro and Bosch pumps out on the market now. I would check my supplier to make sure the pump is a genuine Walbro. Summit sells this same pump under it`s own name for 189.00 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AEI%2D11106&N=700+4294836965+4294891680+115&autoview=sku http://www.exelife.com/blog/automotive/walbro-fuel-pump-forgeries-who-knew.html http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1907305

I have been running a AEM 1040 unit on my car for over a year now, would have made 500rwh if the clutch hadn`t slipped at 17psi and 427rwh.That`s on crappy 91 oct pump gas and methanol injection using two 1600cc EFI injectors controlled by the AEM using NO intercooler. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134 http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,16575.0.html http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,20346.0.html

Those are great #`s esp with that small of a turbo.makes me want to get back on the dyno for final tuning.

I agree with Bernard, my methanol injection system is controlled by the staged injector setup in the AEM. Using the ECU allows controll of the methanol with the same accuracy of the regular EFI system.PM if you would like more info. Dyno graph of my A/F ratio curve under boost, the methanol accounts for 35% of the total fuel through 2 160lb methanol compatable fuel injectors.Intake temps never went over 100* and if the clutch hadn`t slipped 500rwh with 91 oct and the methanol should be NP.

Be aware that nitrous on a turbo engine is kind of like 2+2 = 5. The same jetting that produced a 120 wheel horsepower shot on an NA motor produced over 200 wheel horsepower on a turbo motor. My advice would to be very conservative with the jetting and use proper safeguards using nitrous.

You might check with some of the local Japanese engine exchanges, for what most shops would charge for a "rebuild" you could have a KA transmission put in your z it would require your bellhousing to be modified to do so. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98875&highlight=KA+trans+swap http://www.ermish-racing.com/510/510parts.html Troy was doing the machining to make the bellhousings fit, you might want to give Him a call.

I use 85 Z31 rear calipers for the braking setup on the 510, 280zx rear rotors were used to clear the 13" wheels. The calipers and pads are about 25% larger than the 280zx units, so a Wilwood proportioning valve was used to get the braking bias spot on. I am not sure about fittment to a z car, but the E brake mechanism was eaiser to route in a 510, just be aware that a different bracket than used for a 280zx caliper will have to be fabricated.

I pass not one , but two E85 plants here in central CA on my 30 min. vanpool to work. E85 is supposed to become avalable sometime in 2008 in limited distibution in central California. As far as the corrosive effects go, I will just base the fuel system on my current methanol secondary injection system.

He did, I just had ear protection in when it was being explained( plus I don`t hear worth a crap anyways). This was my first experence with a Dynopack Dyno. I went with a friend who owns Raver Motorsport and all the cars He has final tuned at Church`s are rear wheel horsepower. I shouldn`t have posted before my second cup of coffee. http://home.earthlink.net/~spchurch/churchautomotivetesting/id12.html

Actually, the #`s are RWH , after speaking with the tuner.The setup on the sheet , just says FWH.

Yes, these are corrected #`s I was shooting for 500 fwh on the turbo and 600 fwh on the N20.

3 Liter stroker N42/N42 with ported head and ported N42 intake and T67 BB turbo. The "low" #`s were my fault as a spacer for the dual kevlar clutches was not removed and the clutch slipped past 17 psi of boost. I was hoping for 500 hp on the pump gas and the methanol. BTW the methanol is the only intercooler due to space limitations and the air temps never went over a 100*. The plan is to pull the tranny and look at the clutch in the next week or so and possibly upgrade one of the discs to a six puck ceramic if there seems to be any problems. Then more dyno time and 22psi and 500 hp on pump gas/ methanol and 600 hp on 100oct and a small shot of N20.I can`t say enough good about Sean Church @ Church Automotive Testing, His knowlege of tuning AEM EMS was very impressive to say the least and part throttle drivability improved drastically. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134

I use a SR20 det TB which is 60mm and it uses the same flange pattern as the KA TB.

http://www.techlinecoatings.com/introduction.html http://new.photos.yahoo.com/sss510six/album/576460762337492981 The coatings can`t hurt. I belive using 35% methanol as fuel has helped to prevent detonation and reduce EGT`s as well

This is a dattalog of my EGT`s http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=93023.0 The EGT `s registered a highest temp of 1580 F and were within 40* of on another at full boost. The tempurature of the EGTs have dropped when timing was added.

I am wondering if you got a hold of a fake Chinese Bosch 044 pump. My methanol injection system uses a "real"044 pump and uses only 3 gallons of methanol @ 7.5 amps which circulates the methanol automatically after 2000rpm and has withstood several 100+ degree days here in the semi- desert in California with no reliability problems. http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1907305

Chosing a turbo is a lot like chosing a camshaft, it all depends on what kind of power output and when boost "hits" it what rpm range.More information would be needed on what horsepower level you desire and what kind of driving you will be doing. Having too large or to small of a turbo for a particular setup can be at the least a frustrating experience. My particulat turbo is a ballbearing T67 T04S / T3 .82 witha P trim wheel with a "built" motor and a head and intake setup to flow at higher rpm it suits me just fine but would not be a good choice for someone who road races their car. A friend who does road race uses not quite so radical of a motor and a T4 .60 AR housing with a 60-1 compressor/ T3 .63 with a stage 5 wheel. Both turbos can make enough horsepower to get your attention, but are each suited to a particular application.

http://www.more-japan.com/Bosch-Fuel-Pump-Accessories-p-1-c-542.html Shot at 2007-07-20 I purchaced my adaptors from this source.

I have Backspun a couple of turbo`s from N20 backfires, due to a power wire to a nitrous deticated fuel pump breaking at exactly the wrong moment.The low pressure fuel Hobb switch worked but, not fast enough to prevent engine and turbocharger damage.The reason I went with the anti surge housing is the car is street driven and the S housing with the T67 compressor is pretty large.