510six

It would depend on the horsepower that your trying to make with the nitrous. Running anything more than a 100 wheel horsepower shot with stock NA pistons is asking for trouble. Using the stock mechanical pump with nitrous is not a good idea , this link describes it in greater detail. http://webpages.charter.net/beckracing/page14.htm A nitrous fuel system should have an electric fuel pump and have the ability to be regulated, I ran a Holley blue fuel pump on the "wet" port nitrous and it worked without a flaw, a return style regulator was used to keep a constant and cool fuel supply when the nitrous is activated. Running a dead end regulator will work, but fuel can "boil" out of the lines and cause a lean condition when the nitrous solenoid opens. There also has to be a way to tell if your fuel mixture with nitrous is lean , going lean with nitrous is VERY bad. I would recomend a wideband 02 meter and jetting the fuel mixture rich and changing jets until the desired fuel/air ratio is gained.11.0-11.8 is a safe nitrous tune, better to run a bit rich then to use the aluminum in your pistons /cyl head as fuel. Bottle pressure with nitrous will determine the flow and amount of nitrous, being consistant with pressure make the system safer and the horsepower levels reliable. A nitrous gauge near the bottle is a must it ensures that the pressure is what you determine (900-1100 psi), using a bottle heater with a pressure controlled regulator will ensure that bottle pressure is consistant. http://www.watsonperformanceproducts.com/servlet/Detail?no=665 http://search.ebay.com/nitrous-pressure-gauge_W0QQfkrZ1QQfnuZ1QQfsooZ2QQfsopZ32 Safety switches. I will start at what should be wired in series nearest to the solenoids first. Clutch switch: This is used for two applications, first if a problem develops the clutch can be pushed in and the solenoid deactivates. Second, if using a after market ignition box with a dual stage rev limiter the clutch switch can be used as a staging rev limiter for the drag strip.Typically 4k or 5k rpm. WOT: this prevents the nitrous from activating at anything less that 100% throttle. This does three things, first if a problem developes lift the throttle. Second it ensures that the carb/efi is providing maximum fuel preventing a lean condition. Third it prevents unintended activation. RPM window switch: This turns on the nitrous at a specified rpm and off at a specified rpm. This prevents low rpm activation from blowing off your intake manifold and high rpm from putting a rod through the block. http://www.centuryperformance.com/mallory/techfiles/MA1471_RPMSwitch_628.pdf Arming switch: this provides power to the nitrous solenoids, if using a nitrous only fuel pump a relay can be used to provide power to this as well.I would suggest wiring a small LED to one of the solenoids to make sure power is at the solenoid, placed where it can be visually determined at the dash. (plus it looks cool when the nitrous is on) Purge switch: this is a momentary switch that ensures that liquid nitrous is at the solenoid ensuring full power at activation. http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodlist.asp?idcategory=17 Low fuel pressure switch: This is a Hobbs switch that ensures enough fuel pressue is present to prevent a lean condition. http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HOBBS-PRESSURE-SWITCH-7-PSI-PROPANE-INJECTION-N-O_W0QQitemZ170189177380QQihZ007QQcategoryZ67006QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Ignition, for every 50 wheel horsepower a 2* reduction in timing should be made. I would suggest running an after market CDI box as combustion pressures rise the spark tends to be "blown out" . Also today several manufactures provided ignitions with multiple features that eleminate wiring and extra complexity. Dual stage rev limiters, built in timing retards and window switches are just a couple of examples. http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_18_6520.htm http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MAA-685&N=700+115&autoview=sku Spark Plugs : I only use NGK V power plugs , with the gap reduced to .35-30 depending on the horsepower shot. This again is to compensate for the increased cylinder pressures. Also run one step colder plugs than stock with nitrous and replace the plugs after every bottle. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/index.asp?mode=nml If this sounds like a lot of work, your right it is. Remember that taking time and effort in the begining will save headaches and blown motors in the long run.

If you have a NA L28 your pistons are cast, the L28et has cast pistons as well however they are stronger. The NA pistons should survive a 100 whp shot provided proper safety precautions are taken.

With VG30 100,000 mile core motor pistons a 120hp shot to the wheels worked fine, with the exception of the top of the piston compressing down and seizing the compression ring(after 80 10lb bottles of nitrous). Running nitrous isn`t that much different than setting up a motor to run boost, combustion pressues will increase and ignition retard is needed as HP goes up. Setting up a system that is consistant and has proper saftey provisions made is what becomes more involved and expensive.

You could run a "wet" shot, but at least 5 psi of fuel pressure would be needed.The L28 has a forged crank and rods, the pistons are the weak spot when running "squeeze". PM me for more info.

How much horsepower are you looking to make?

I also have a Yellow top deep cycle Optima, the battery took repeated charges after being repeatedly drained.(A larger pully is on the ATI dampner now).No complaints it`s been the best battery I have ever owned for two years now.

I use # 1 and #5 for the EGT outputs, due to the very sharp turn in the stock EFI manifold in cyl #1 runner.

I couldn`t agree with Tim more, anything that can be done to keep heat away from the intank charge especially on a turbo motor should be done. At idle temp differences of almost 80* were confirmed with a laser thermometer with and without a ceramic coated heat shield. Nissan engineers put the heat shield there for a reason and putting the heat shield in place is a cheap ( not especially easy) way to reduce the intank charge temps. An effort was made to deal with the inherent temp problems of the L series non crossflow head.

My old 3 liter SDS CT26 turbo with a large shot of N20.275 rwh on the street low 11 high 10 second car. My new setup AEM EMS with large T67 turbo and small shot of N20.Shooting for 500 rwh on the street and 600 rwh with a small shot of N20.

You should have no problems with an non EGR N42 manifold, provided you use the factory heat sheild. http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?bg=FFFFFF&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2071000-2071999/2071134_14_full.jpg Ceramic coating the exhaust, intake and the heat shield doesn`t hurt either.

If you can find someone with an old PL510 clutch throwout bearing fork, the rod that goes from the slave to the clutch fork is adjustable . It`s what I have used with my current tripple disc setup, even when I was running a sintered iron disc with a 2600 lb pressure plate it worked quite well with no issues.

If you use your staged injection controll for the methanol injection a couple of VERY large low impedence injectors could be used in the place of the methanol "misters" and would allow better controll of the methanol injected.Since the (1600cc) secondary injectors only come on under boost idle quaility is not affected. http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsMODS.asp http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?bg=FFFFFF&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2071000-2071999/2071134_26_full.jpg

The TH350 would have to be for a strickly drag race setup. Even then a Ford C4 would be lighter and use less horsepower to turn.

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?board=13.0 should answer carburated turbo questions. http://www.cbperformance.com/default.asp CB performance is a VW place, but they are tops at modifying Weber Carbs for blow thru setups.

Methanol does eat regular injector bodies up, it requires special injectors. http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsMODS.asp The secondary injector control on the AEM EMS controlls two 1600cc injectors spraying methanol into the intake piping and providing 35% of the total fuel under boost. Reconditioned 1600cc methanol compatable injectors can go for as little as $119 for a set of two. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134/5 Bosch CIS injection systems use a very effective stock accumulator. http://www.auto-solve.com/mech_inj.htm

The R200 in my 510 has held up fine with stock halfshafts and NISMO soild U joints(BTW NLA from Nissan). This was with a turbo N20 3 liter L series stroker motor using the the same LS1 T56 in your car on 7" wide slicks and 535rwh and 490 fpt. An R200 with an LSD should hold up , I would use the strongest axels I could afford.When my supply of stock axels with the soild U joints is depleted a set of custom axels will be made using Porsche 930 CV`s.

Is this on an L series, some pics of your setup/dilema would help.

I am running a cast iron Melling Turbo oil pump, shimmed it with some washers to 75psi and it has worked great for several years now. Bought it at Autozone for $90.

A timeslip is a timeslip, but the motor is going to have a very short fuse.

It works just like the wastegate on a turbo. When a certain boost pressure is reached the boost pod opens the exhaust cutout and the exhaust is opened. In my case it will be the 7 psi of a stock CT26 turbo.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134 This should explain everything

Our idea was to use pieces that were already around His shop, namely a couple of boost pods from CT26 turbos and only activate the cutout under "high" boost mode using an output from the AEM EMS.

Got into a highway roll on with a Viper convertable on Thanksgiving morning .I was headed to my Dads house and was about to make a turn when I saw the Viper make the corner in back of me, the road went from two lane to four lane and by some miracle the Viper ended up next to me at the stoplight heading into the country.At the dragstrip pretty much every Viper that I have seen traps at about 116-117 mph and my current high boost tune of 427 rwh should trap 122-123 mph through the 1/4 mile (my power to weight ratio is better). The Viper driver took off as you would expect of some rich guy taking His toy out for a drive, I stayed with Him in low boost mode (14 psi) and waited for us to get up to about 60mph and put the car into high boost mode and open up the exhaust cutout. It was about a 5 car length asswhooping and having proven my point and not wanting to get into a 135 mph plus sluggout I eased up. At the next light 4-5 miles down the highway the owner shouted and asked me "what the f*ck do you have in that thing" I replied " Just a turbo motor".

A friend had the idea of using an internal wastegate boost pod to open an exhaust cutout on the "high" boost mode setting of the AEM EMS. This is very similar to the second wastegate that was being used on my car when the nitrous was engaged to prevent boost creep , a Ford smog solenoid allowed boost pressure into the second wastegate when the nitrous switch was activated. http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?bg=FFFFFF&image=http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2071000-2071999/2071134_5_full.jpg The same Ford smog solenoid is used only this time it opens "boost" to a stainless exhaust cutout.When "high" boost mode (now 17psi soon to be 22 psi)is on the wastegate pod opens at 7psi. Currently the exhaust cutout is opened via a heavy duty choke cable and it works well enough, it would be a bit slicker to have it be automatic