akeizm

yea 2 right angle L brackets. Thin pieces of metal about 2mm thick. Has about 10 bolts go through them.

My friend and I didnt put the brackets back on and the sumps havn't dripped once. I believe 1 of them is used to drop the exhaust from hitting the point where the block and sump meet (well that area has a bracket that sticks out, only reason I can see it being there).

Wish I could get that mag over here in Aus. But saving a 260z, could have just came and had a look @ mine

Just saw the movie today, and I really liked it. Pulled on a few heart strings this movie, was sad.

2mins in and I already hate him....he is a rude sob that doesn't deserve to breathe the same air as the rest of us.

If I could afford to own a 350z I would. But for $60K AUS for one brand new, I dont think I can afford that for a long time.

Well my mate who just sold his crashed zx turbo (exact same turbo) just got a call from the buyer sayin the turbo was stuffed (bent shaft and something else, chipped blades I think) he wasn't whining just saying it was. He did 1000k's on his engine, I've only done 80k's so I hope there is some life left in it.

You should be able to use the stock fuel lines in your car. I just went from carb to efi and my z had a return line factory installed but blocked off near the carbie. So just run some hose from the metal pipe in the engine up to the carbs and block off the return. That prolly didnt answer your question but I thought I'd give it a shot.

Well I upgraded to a line that was a a smidge larger than 4 AN (4AN "1/4" line had these stupid restrictions in it that would have been equal to 1/8 so I went to 3/8 line. I've installed it and the noise changed a little bit but its still there. So it could be an air leak or balance issue. I have also checked in with my exhaust shop and he had a look, so its not an exhaust leak.

Ok thanks guys, I'll get a larger oil line.

Hey all, I just got my turbo engine running properly today and I have a brand new t04e/t3 hybrid turbo on it. But I'm only running the engine in at the moment and when I hardly put the accelerator down it starts to make a loud whine. Here is an example of what it sounds like (my mates 280zx with the exact same turbo http://members.optusnet.com.au/akeizm/whine.wav ) Any1 know what could cause this? I have a feeling its either a stuffed turbo out of the shop. I also had a thought that my oil line is too small (but the turbo gets a nice supply of oil with pressure as its a sleeve bearing). Thanks, Marc.

awww bandwidth exceeded.

Damm! I love those wheels. Nice work

I know one thing about headbolts, don't torque them up to 114 foot pounds. They will snap or worse strip the thread in the block.

I've got the car @ 50btdc but I can't find a tigger point, or even @ 40 for that matter. Is it possible to open up the dizzy and rotate the optical disk? I should have added its an 83 Dizzy heh. But the main question is, is it safe to run with the car set @ that timing?

Hey all, I fired the Z up for the 1st time today for about 10 secs and I'm so damn happy! But I have a quick question. When setting up my timing using moby's newest map I could only get my timing to 35 - 38 btdc with the dizzy fully advanced. Would this cause too much of an issue? For basic engine specs look below. L28e converted to Turbo (n42 block with dished pistons, p90 head) New Bearings all round New gaskets all round New rings t04e/t3 hybrid turbo 440cc supra injectors walbro 255 fuel pump Optospark Ignition (damn thing saved me alot of money) Only run 98 Octane Unleaded Petrol (Thought I'd add it) But yea, is it bad to run the thing @ 35 - 38 btdc? Heh my car wants to live and not turn off. I turned the key into the off position but it kept running smooth hahahah but how can it if the relay that provides power is off. Anyway, thanks Marc.

The pdf I was given gave me the wrong information about the pin outs which I wasn't too happy about but this is the email I got back from bosch: "We would like to advise: Pin 7 is positive trigger not negative. pin 3 is negative trigger. This module needs a AC input not TTL. The correct Module for this set up Is BIM137 which uses a Hall or TTL input. If you use the 9220 061 021/024 module with this set up you have no dwell control as the module cannot process the signal, it needs the zero crossing point to work out dwell and current control ie an inductive input."

Ok thanks, I'll have a look soon.

Hi all, I've been setting up my Msns-extra with version 21u and I am trying to get my tps setup. Now I go in and use the tools to calibrate it but something isn't right. I leave the foot off the pedal and click to get the closed reading, then I put it flat to the floor (the butterfly is full open) and then get the reading for that. But when I look at the simulator the bar that represents the throttle position is only showing the tps to be anywhere between 20% and 80% (20% when closed and 80% when full open). What could be some of the problems that would cause this? Hopefully this will be the last question I will ask about msns (should run now). Thanks, Marc.

Well, thanks bosch for sending me the wrong info but anyway. The module is useless. My dad is gonna use an optocoupler and use my old module to run the spark.

Ok thanks for the info, I'll give it another shot. As for C15 it didnt go bang but I saw the flash on the board which was the tracks burning off. C15 was installed the right way it was just open circut (tested it).

I didnt get the car back thurday but I did Sat. and when i powered up msns-extra it went bang....bloody c15 was dead. Which burnt out a few copper tracks, but thats all fixed now. But I tried today, and it didnt spark But something is not right with my wiring anyway, because I get 9v during cranking (which would be normal) but when its sitting in the on position I'm getting no volts. But this doesn't explain why I dont get a spark in the cranking position. I am getting 12v's to the trigger pin. So I dont know what is going on....Any ideas people?

So do you guys run with your foot on your brake when you are @ full boost

Well, There is alot of writing done in this thread and I cant be bothered reading it tonight heh. But I just got my Z back from getting its piping done, it has 2.5" piping and the way I have run the piping goes: With the compressor facing toward the sump, the ic piping goes under the engine mount, up infront of the engine and into the intercooler on the passanger side (for you whacky americans) then out of the drivers side into the throttle body. This was a random late night post from me Hope it kinda helps heh.

finally someone loves me!