akeizm

This looks very interesting. What is this Injection pump pully thing you mentioned in the 1st post?

Hahah thats funny.

Hey, I'm running megasquirt n spark extra but I'm using turbo supra injectors that are 440cc injectors (out of the 7mgte motors). They're the size that alot of the turbo guys on this board are using and will do the 300rwhp nicely.

the site is broken.

For the flywheel the 2+2's flywheel is the same size as the 280zx turbos. As for clutch just go to a clutch joint and ask for a clutch to suit for 300+ rwhp. Thats all I did and they gave me an organic button clutch from exedy. Does the job quite well, but its very aggressive. The stock p90 cam will do the job for 300rwhp.

I was reading in the news paper here in aus this morning that it was downgraded to the CAT4 right before it hit the coast with 224kph winds (still damn bloody quick winds!).

I think that green rbz is 260DET's one. Well going by his avatar anyway and it looks like a queensland rego sticker on the front window.

Hahah that was nuts!!!

Ok I pulled out the alternator and found that it was an interally regulated one. And after blowin a few fuses etc I got it all sorted.

Hey all, I've had a search and havn't come up with the exact answer I'm looking for. I'm wondering how can you tell if you have an internally regulated alternator without opening up the alternator itself. I put a 79 280zx N/a motor in my 260z and converted it to a turbo using its alternator but I'm now overcharging (around 15v @ idle, and goes over 16 when driving). I think its because I have 2 regulators (the external one and internal one) but I'm not sure on how to tell if I do have an internally regulated one. Is there a list that tells me what my alternator is, or maybe a photo to show me the difference (if any by looking at it)? Thanks, Marc.

Look at his face in the 4th square. I feel really sorry for that orange It doesnt look like an orange though ,looks more like a mandarin (spelling?)

787b R26B Rotary.....mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

My word!! I do believe your right!

Glad to see someone else has a similar dyno graph to mine (very similar setup also at 6psi). But yea thats odd that it falls off @ 4500, prolly timing as yo2001 suggested. Not to hijack but this is my graph which was fun to drive with, but the next day the car decided to run like crap with revs goin down after 3000rpm

Heh and cover the nissan logo area with carbon fibre

God lots of work. And Nizmo you painted yours! you must have been bored, I bought mine already painted

How is it mounted? Mine used to sound like a really loud fan belt squeaking. And it was louder than my 3" exhaust. What I found was that you need to mount it horizontally (inlet and outlets facing the left and right sides of the car, or the front and back of the car). If its vertical (inlet and outlet facing the ground and the sky) it will not produce as much pressure and will scream its head off (think its trying to push air). In the installation guide for the pump it says to mount it in the same position as the old pump, well my old one was vertical.

I dont know if its the same over in the states, but my 260z had a stock return line but it was blocked off at the carbie fuel rail. And both the tank inlet and outlet are next to each other. Now do all earlier model Z's have a fuel return line run? (The Z I have has never had an efi motor until now). I've had mine down pretty low haven't noticed any surging with the stock tank.

As he said, have you checked that?

When I got my car dyno'd last week it was misfiring when you got under it at around 4000rpm. This was because I was running too hotter plugs, and I had a too larger gap (.040") and that was causing the problem. The person doing the tune replaced the spark plugs and told me to run a gap of .026" (hes the turbo expert, pretty well known one so I trust his information). And said the higher the boost the colder the plug needs to be. Thats prolly be covered before but I thought I'd post it.

So no1 has a clue?

Ok cool, well that puts the O2 sensor out of the question. The MAP line is fine, the people who tuned my car checked the line, and my fuel pressure. They said it was running lean when it was at their shop because he blocked the return line only ran fine when the pressure raised up to 100psi.

Hey all, I need some help with my car. I just got my Z tuned on the dyno on Monday and she was running quite nicely on the dyno and on the drive home. But when I tried running it the next day it was playing up pretty badly. So I took it back to the dyno joint and they said it was running very lean (Now I know they tuned it properly because I had to help them, needed to show them the program and I could see my fuel ratio's etc when he was tuning). On the way home it all of a sudden started running normally. But when I ran it later on that day it reverted back to its problematic state and has been that way until today. When it plays up it bucks, coughs and really struggles to get up in the RPM's. When my dad and I were looking at the car today it looked to be running rich because it was blowing smoke, but at the shop we saw it was running lean. So I dont know whats happening, one minute its really lean and one minute it seems Rich. Now these are the details on my car: L28e converted to an ET GT30/40r Turbo 60mm 240sx Throttle Body 440cc Supra Injectors Intercooled with 2.5" piping 3" from DP back Z31 Narrowband O2 Sensor (3 wire) Megasquirt and Spark Extra (u21, Tuned in MegaTune2.25b358. Started with Moby's map) Now I have done some data logging. The logs I am putting up are of the car when I 1st got it on the road in May. 2nd is today when the Car is out of gear and the last one is a run today around the block: Run In May (22nd May 2005) Run today (Out of Gear) 2nd Run today (Drive around the Block) Now I'm no expert but it seems like the O2 sensor is screwy. But looking at the last Log the MAP graph goes off the scale. Here is the copy of the file in my Megasquirt: My Current Tune The car is only tuned to 6psi at the moment for running in purposes. So can anyone shed any light on my problem? I am really REALLY getting sick of this car consistantly having problems. For my 1st go at an engine swap/conversion it really hasn't left me with too much confidence in working with motor's anymore. Thanks for reading, Marc.

I feel your pain. My 1st go at pulling a head came crashing down in the same way. My torque wrench when set to 60 foot pounds was doing 115 pounds. Well I stripped 2 bolts and wrecked a hole in the block near cylinder 1 also. Your best choice is to remove the head, and put in a helicoil. If you were really serious you could do all the holes as a helicoil is alot stronger than the original cast iron threads.

I was thinkin the exact same thing.