akeizm

Well I'm going to get myself a new pump. Anyone have some suggestions on what would flow just as much as my walbro but be alot quieter?

I'm running a gt30/40r turbo and I must say the thing spools damn quick. I've got the same housings and trim sizes as the majority of t04e users on here. But if you have the option of goin BB then do it

Hmmm I was thinking of getting a plastic box (water and dust proof) and lining it with a fire resistant fabric. Then bolting the pump in there to shut it up. I have a 3" exhaust with 1 muffler @ the end and the pump at idle drowns that out. But I think it is the GLS392. I guess If I cant get it quiet enough I'll have to get another one, cause it will drive me insane.

Hey all, I got my z running with a turbo setup and I installed a walbro 255lph pump. Now I knew this was gonna be a noisy sucker but didnt know it was that loud! I have put the padded sleeve on it but I'm wondering if there is a way to reduce the noise? Can I box it in with some insulation or will that make the pump overheat? Thanks, Marc.

I got my ms and wiring harness from rs and I must say having the wiring loom right there with all the names on the wires made the job alot easier!

Well I'm at ricer stage 1. My clutch is slipping so bad I only get 80rwhp on the dyno hahah.

Not an answer but a friend of mine had this issue also but not as bad. We were cruising along then the car just cut out. We pulled over, and checked for spark. Sure enough it was gettin spark and fuel but just didnt want to go. Gave it a few minues and then the thing started.

My old l26 block was just a hole in the side which you screwed your filter into. The l28 block I have has that arrangement that you have in your photo. You need to bolt on the oil filter mount. Its usually a rightangled piece that the filter screws onto.

Very nice z! Love the wheels, wouldn't mind getting myself a set like those.

my drink is still on

LOL my mechanic takes 3 weeks to replace a turbo and run a water line to it.

Yea Simons 240z. That things a work of art. Also sounds as good as it looks.

Looks good man. But I think light colours on a 2+2 suit alot better than darker colours.

Done l28e turbo conversion. (why have l6 turbo last )

Cool thanks for the reply guys. I guess its not really worth it anyway, I'll just look for some aluminum ones.

Hey all, I had a search for carbon fibre strut tower bars in this section of the forum but didnt come up with much. Anyway I've seen these carbon fibre bars on ebay and I'm wondering would carbon fibre be fine to use as a strut tower bar? I'm looking at getting a set of them. Also quick question, can you use a rear strut tower bar out of a 240z in a 260z 2+2? Thanks, Marc.

I sounds like a turbo leak. If you were burning oil in the cylinders you would smoke as soon as you turned the key. When I put the wrong rings in my engine as soon as I started it it smoked. When I put the right rings in, the car wouldn't smoke when it started but when it got hot enough the excess oil in the exhaust would burn out.

What a waste of a 2+2. Should have put a crap 2 seater on there (ps I love my 2+2)

I just completed my 1st engine rebuild and I must say, buy the rings and other things like bearings after you have measured up the cylinders etc. I bought stock parts for my engine, put it back together too find I was burning oil and also had low oil pressure (undersized rings and bearings). This part is just food for thought: Bearings are cheap (I dont knwo the prices over in the US but they were about $120AU for a set of rod and crank bearings), and because you will be pulling the pistons/rods out why not replace the bearings while your at it. If you decide to replace the crank bearings you will need to make sure your rear seal is put back together properly so it wont leak. But replacing the bearings means you will have to mic up the crank and do a plasti gauge test aswell to make sure you dont need oversized bearings. You will need to hone the cylinders (makes a crossed pattern on them) for the new rings. But apart from gaskets (head gasket mainly) you can just replace the rings, hone the cylinders and put her back together. Hope some of my ramblings has helped (even if its only a little bit).

Haha if only my waterpump replacement was soo smooth. When I got my new zxt motor in my z (bout the 3rd time in) put some water in and it was leakin, so we replaced the gasket only to find the waterpump was cracked. So out to get a new gasket and we put it on. I was sick of my l28 then. And I still havn't been able to give it a good run.

i couldnt find the chat button lol

There are 3 wires that connect onto the starter, 1 is the main feed from the battery, 1 is the main earth and another one that supplies power to the rest of the car. the main feed from the battery and the wire to supply the rest of the car usually bolts onto the solinoid on the starter motor. Check there 1st. Next look at your fusable links, if they have a crappy connection or broken then you wont get any power to the rest of the car again.

Just got a call back form the turbo shop (I sent the car away to get fixed). The turbo is completely dead! Non repairable....

Well put it this way, my friend and I bought an Ebay turbo....and well mine was dead after 90 kilometres and his was after 1000 kilometres. Mine has a ground compressor housing and bent turbo shaft.... Those turbo's costed about $350 each.

If it was to help spread why not have a couple of brackets so it would cover all parts of the sump. I dont see how having it in 2 corners, or only in 2 spots will seal the sump better than an even pressure all around with no brackets. But yea mine prolly had that little shield on the brackets cause someone built some headers that went close to the sump....top job that was lol.