Cruez

From what I have heard the Cartech is a little difficult to turn for both high and low rpms. I knew one person who had it setup like that and ended up putting the FI system on it. It kept the engine closer to the stochiometric ratio.

I owned an '83 ZX while I was building my '77 (the first time). The S130 makes a great daily driver. Same nice exhaust note as the S30 (before hybridization) is that a word? , cushy ride, and decent looks. I like the S30 better, just because I feel more like a part of the car than in the S130.

Nice work, I wish I had the determination to stay on a project as much as you.

I'll try to see when its on next and tivo it... then capture to post here

+1 vote for me on that, about the S30.

Interesting to say the least... although there are lots of fanboys in there... watch out. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239608

What about this TIG unit... Its DC only though... how often do you need AC ? http://www.thermadyne.com/evolution/productLiterature.asp?mernbr=1&div=tai&catnbr=99&subcatnbr=109&pdtnbr=455

SMAW, I think its regular stick welding..

or the cat could be partially blocked.

Myself, I have ever TIG welded before.. Mig welding I do Ok, but it was with flux cored wire... so it wasn't very pretty.. Oxyacetylene welding, on the other hand I do very good at. Very clean, even welds with it...very nice beads. Now having said that, wouldn't the TIG welding fall in between gas and mig welding... as far as the process goes.??

I'll be in the market for one of the two in the spring.. Still haven't made up my mind on which.

I saw that 240 a while back.... I believe he sold it... Nice idea though

Didn't hear about this until today.. Richard Pryor dead at 65 He was a great comedian.. http://www.cnn.com/2005/US/12/10/pryor.obit/index.html RIP

pics dead.. looks like a bandwidth issue..

If you are looking for a real racing simulation like road racing, look at http://www.liveforspeed.net It is pretty realistic, it has lots of car setup options. And its a free download for the demo. (3 cars)

I wouldn't mind putting together a vegi burning L28D in something someday.

I've got an '02 Pathy, a little different than the '95 though. It could be a little low on fluid or something blocking a passage... a good filter cleaning and fluid change with the correct fluid works wonders sometimes.

Actually, the front mount is salvageable.. only minor rust on it.. The rear mount is the bad one..it HAS to be replaced. Its amazing that where the tar was no rust got through it..still clean metal. I'll probably put in some subframe connectors since I am going to be working in the vicinity anyway.

Here are some pics of the passenger side... The drivers side I can fix pretty easily. In pic 1 you can see that the rear mount already has started disentegrating on the back side... One good thing about it being cold is the tar crap chips off pretty easily.

Good to see its coming along nicely, Mark. Can't wait to see it in person.

Well, looks like my rust problem is worse than I thought... I started out with no rust a few years ago and the car set outside for 5-6 years.. water came in and you know the chemical reation. I started taking off the tar deadener from the inside of the car and here is the extend of my rust problem. 1. Small patch on drivers floor pan. 2. Couple patches on passengers side floor pan. 3. Passenger side seat mounts need to be replaced. Almost all of the rust is where the tar sound deadener has gaps or was not placed. Frame rails are good, battery area is good an every other rust prone area is good. What is the best way to fix this... cut out old metal and weld new patches in place where the rust is?? What about the seat mounts... can you buy them??

Did anyone see the TV show that had Tim's car and Tim ??? I've got it here encoded on the computer somewhere.... it was on "Fine Living"

What mario is right.... that stuff is really simple to make, but takes something very hot to get it started. If I am not mistaken, I think a flare will start the reaction... I got the recipe off a bbs back in the '80's before the internet was born Got another one for a cheap way to make great smoke bombs too

Sw this on the other site... Thought it was funny.. hopefully not a repost.. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted car part you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouch...." ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Also used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new disk brake pads, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off a hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters. PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog**** off your boot. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, it's main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last over tightened 58 years ago by someone at ARCO, and neatly rounds off their heads. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or, bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also the next tool that you will need.