Two80z4me

so your gonna give me that motor mmmk...

yeah I got it straightened out Leon, thank you lol

Just picked up a 2010 Ford Fusion SE ill post some photos

i dont mind a little chatter as long as its healthy, but right now it seems a little excessive

shouldn't the intake be a bigger larger lash than the exhaust?

I appreciate the feedback, now I can get back driving out to seattle

So I used the haynes manual for my car, which said .030mm intake / .025mm exhaust ... I set it to that standards doing the one half at a time like it says. Terrible power loss and overwhelming ticking noise, louder than my glasspack exhaust!!! So I called up a local Z car club guy that builds L28 motors, he said he always runs .011mm intake and exhaust. Back I went to the garage, changed it to that spec. The ticking was not as loud, but still seemed too loud to be healthy, I havent taken it for another run since I changed them to the .011 spec. What intake/exhaust specs would you run on a stock p79 head with flat tops, because clearly whatever I'm doing is wrong?

haha the same ad is up right now...

those are super nice looking in the 16's

well, I guess I'll got get my masking tape out then, its painting time.

about an hour to the nearest store for a 98cent can of hi-temp paint and I have a good can or so left of paint that matches the body of my car and some other paint I want to use on the valve cover.

I've seen people paint their intakes with non-high temp paint, so wouldn't it be safe to assume that you can paint your valve cover with a regular style paint? I'm adjusting my valves and thought I would jazz up the engine bay a little bit, but I want to double check that my paint wont melt after I spend all the time painting it.

all motors have put in, some are just more documented than others. I'd say the swap would be the same as putting the KA24 in, or am I out of line here?

I'm almost out of the "like a boss, I'm lewis hamilton in a Datsun" phase, but then again I was never in that mentality because everytime I've gone I'm with guys who whoop my but and don't let me forget it, but we all still have a blast. Just keep each other in check. This is the fastest time of the day at our auto-x last weekend, you can see most of the road course in this video: I unfortunatly had to work course during his run. However there was a point to posting that video, in the back sweeper we had about 4 new guys go off, One, in a tuned evo with a big time attack sticker on the back, the guy was about 20 (go figure) One, in a riced out integra. One, in a $100,000 cobra kit car that was race prepared and inexperienced in the rain and the last one was in a F-mod. all were extremely cocky before hand, especially mr.timeattackhero

thats how its done, ish

very nice, If by the end of this summer I can get enough $$$ from the docks to get my IMSA racing license finalized and look for a new car to race then you might see my "application" in your inbox. May I ask where you sourced your KA? craigslist or just word of mouth?

im very very surprised this car hasn't sold yet. If I had more money or wanted to sell my Z to buy another track/auto-x ready Z It would probably be this one to purchase.

impact safety gear has always been quality, I used it when I was racing Shifter karts, and probably will use it again when I go back to racing F-mods. Someone just screwed the wrong mans wife at SFI IMO.

hello hybridz, I've had a minor issue that turned into a larger one last weekend at the track, the steering rack (inner tie rods) are loose on my passenger side, I can move it around under the boot on the steering rack by hand, and when your cornering at high rates of speed and putting lots of pressure on the tires and steering for grip it shakes and hops and its coming from the steering racks inner parts being loose. My question is, that I heard you cant really replace the inner tie rods because of the way they are put in, also no-one seems to sell Inner tie rods, furthering my thoughts that I just need to replace the rack. Or is there a way to fix this without replacing the rack?

i can only hope my insurance company is so generous when one day mine Inevitably gets totalled by some terrible driver in Seattle. hope your new project goes well

I'm rather noob when it comes to bikes, what kind of yamaha is that? I'm searching for a solid CBR for my mode of transportation, the tundra is expensive lol

I hadn't seen an actual Post your daily driver thread before, and cygnus gave me the idea . so basically, post your Daily driver vehicles other than your Datsun/Nissan. Show off your fancy family vehicles lol I'll start it off, 2008 Toyota Tundra Sr5 Crewmax 5.7iforce v8. love this truck like an oversized child. rather poor photos but it isnt exactly the center of the photographs like the datsun is. post your rides! thanks.

i spy a toyota emblem on your hood....

I dont think I need to wire one in, but I think your right. back to the auto parts store for more supplies.

lol I fixed it and did it the right way, no im not getting power to the pump, so im going to do it on a seperate relay with a switch. good ole switches