Mayolives

Well put, Titanium. Had we tested a "slammed low" car, I doubt the results would have been very useful to most members. Yes, low is better, but most of us need to drive our cars on streets with obstacles that would be hard on a 2" high front nose. Event track guys with trailers need to be able to load and unload with out dragging the front end. We really need an easily attached and removable front air dam/splitter. Perhaps Titanium can design one. If so, I'm in!

I have owned all the z cars except a 350 and I suspect one will appear in my shop some day. My z32 is a tt and has been with me since 1990. It's 30k plus miles have seen may road courses and much abuse. But my baby has now been retired to a life on the street. It puts more than 400 hp to the ground and is a super fun ride. In a straight line and from sixty mph on up, it can hang with most. I will admit that having gone through engines and many other knuckle busting exercises has not all be fun, but all in all, it's a great car that I plan to have around until I'm too stupid to appreciate it. Nissan has yet to make a bad z car. I'm still in love with them all.

I'm using AZC front arms and TC rods. They are really well made and have allowed me the adjustability I needed to make my cars handle better ever. I think they are by far, on the top of the list of all arms on the market today.

Thanks for all the Hybrid Z support. I recd. an invitation for the event to be held at VIR North on Friday, July 27th.

How do I vote? Make sure you’re logged into your CarDomain account. Don’t have an account? Get one for free. Go to a ride page. You will see a star rating on the left side of the page. This displays the current rating of the ride. One star is the lowest rating, five stars is the highest. Click on the “Rate this Ride! ” button located underneath the ratings. A box will slide out to the right. Click on the star you wish to vote for, and click the “Save Ratings ” button.

I have entered my 78 280 in Grassroots Motorsports Magazine's Ultimate Track Car Challenge. June 1st is the cut off day for reregistering for the event. In order to be accepted by Grassroots, my car needs more attention and votes on Cardomain .com. Please go to the link below today/now and give my car a good word. Thank you for your help. Mayolives http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2655395/1

Wow..............One would really need a new dash to jump in on that one. And the seller is unknown.......hmmmm.

I finally spoke to someone at Synergyn Oil Company and I was told that although Synergyn Oil does not advertise or speak of a maximum operating temperature in their product literature. Synergyn II Synthetic Gear Oil has been put to the practical test in most forms of racing, including NASCAR and off road racing, that see extremely high operating temperatures (over 300 degrees for extended time periods) and have not experienced any problems related to the product itself. They do recommend frequent oil changes when used in differentials and transmissions that see extreme temperatures. Both Quaife and and G Force recommend Synergyn II gear oil to be used in their products.

D Hale 510 You stated....."The last time I played with a 280ZX I used the rear camber/toe adjusters from Specialty Products. " Who is Specialty Products? Do you have any more information about them or a link to thier web site?

A Myrtle Beach, SC company is advertising them for sale at approx. 18K. Safety???????

http://carcovers.com/ I purchased a cover for my zx from these people for $140.00. The quality and fitmet was very good. I have several other covers that I paid a lot more for and this one is just as good.

I didn't know this was a "private" thread and that one person was in charge of the content. After all, isn't this Hybridz.org, where members share information? Olderthanme, your pictures are great.

This also brings up another question. How hot is too hot for the gear oil? I'm using Synergyn II synthetic, as specified by the differential's manufacturer. Their web site does not discuss a safe maximum operating temperature . I have emailed them and ask for this information.

John, The pump motor is sealed from the elements but there is no fan for the cooler. The air movement at speed should be enough to make the system effective. If not, I will duct some air down there somehow. Rudypoochris, IMHO, I doubt the pressure from internal components of the rear end would move a substantial amount of gear oil through an external cooler system. If it did produce pressure, we would be plagued with seal leaks.

Great photos.................Thank you!

JT1, Thanks for the input. We know that a large amount of air passes under the body at speed, and I hope this will provide the proper air circulation needed by the cooler. June temps at Roebling Road should be a good test. I will probably not run the rear diffuser there due to all the latest work I've done under the rear of the car and needing to keep an eye on things. We are in the process of redesigning the diffuser to make it a little more open at the differential area and to make it more "jack" friendly. I wanted to give things a shake down run at CMP this month but I'm in "custom axle production waiting jail" but hope to be out in a few weeks.

I mounted the cooler and pump behind the fuel cell at the rear of the car. The pump is actually mounted on the rear tip of the frame rail. I used - 8 an lines to plumb the system to the diff cover and switched the pump. Here are a few pictures.

Monzter, Please teel us more about your set-up. What are you using for cv axles?

I installed a small Setrab oil cooler with a pump and plumbed it into an R200, lsd differential cover. The fluid capacity of the cooler and it's AN lines is 10 fluid oz. If I add the additional 10 oz of gear oil to the system, will this cause the rear end seals to leak when the pump is not running and most of the gear oil is in the differential?

"also if any of guys want these louvers please let me know" Hello, I'm looking for a pair of the smaller ZX turbo hood vents. Do you still have the vents? Thanks, Tom.

Mike, I can't get in. Ditto for Roddy.

I am old and that does ROCK. Some things never change.

Nice job!

Big-Phil- I had a similar problem when tuning my L28. It would sputter at higher rpm and boost pulls. I'm running an Electromotive Tec3R ignition/management system along with an Aeromotive 1000 pump with matching regulator. I had the fuel pressure turned up very high (65lbs) but it was starving for fuel due to the duty cycle of the 55lb injectors. After installing 70lb. injectors, the sputtering went away and we were able to turn the fuel pressure down to 45lbs. All is well.