v80z

80LT1 You are right. They are removed. Now it is time to fab the transmission mount and measure for a dive shaft. Instead of buying the chevrolet differential yoke has anyone mated a chevy driveshaft with a z shaft?

JT1 Well after doing twice with it in I decided to cut all the crap out so it just slides in.

http://members.cox.net/jemofvausa/v80z.htm

Pound I am very interested in what you find. I am running a similar setup. The questions I had have already been asked. From my L28 racing days I know that a carbbed and cammed machine will limit performance to various ends of the power band. I initially have gne with a top end cam .508 lift ~250 duration thinking there would ber plenty of low end torque considering the cars starts out stock with very little anyway. On the race setup L28 I ran a 602 316 duration which would not make power below 4000 rpm. We had to run an initial 20 -22 degrees with a mechanical advance of 12 for a total advance of 30 - 32degrees. I am also thinking that at the top end I am going to be under carbbed and would like to get at least an 850 cfm. Can one buy different jets for an edlebrock carb or is meter adjusted? Wonder what jets you have. Anyway please update this thread and I will do the same as I progress. 350 .030 over 600 Edlebrock .508 solid Edlebrock roller race rockers HEI proform billet Performer airgap

Weld That Open Diff.

Dude I am totally impressed. Tell me more about the LT1. Running low 11's and shifting by hand is awesome. Do you have LSD or Locked? All the details as I am getting close to mine.

long on passenger side?

Well Well Well At long last the motor is almost done and most of the extraneous pieces are purchased or at least identified with real sources. I sent the r200 off to be welded and it is back. Got some CV shaft adapters made from cygnusx's basic design and am busy assembling. Question I used a slide hammer to pull the old stubs out of the r200. How do I properly apply enough pressure to force the CV shafts back in. I realize that there is a locking clip inside the female splined portion that I must get through. I tried a sledge and just mangled the grease seal. Help!@

thanks Dr Hunt. I took the timing cover off and installed the balancer with the snout against the timing gear and the took some measurements with a caliper. I appreciate the input. Oh yeah using my old 23 mm socket from the L28 competition dampener bolt ( recommended for euro dampener )and a 4 lb hammer for install and a puller to uninstall. God I cant believe how cheap parts are for SBC. Why have I been swimming up river for the past 5 years. Racing an L28 while not as expensive as some definately is more costly than the heart beat of America. Anyway thanks again. Oh yeah with the hammer it is a slight tap in. Just need the 4lb mass.

Ok I have searched and still need an answer. Having never put together a sbc I am wondering how far the balancer needs to go on before it is in? Right now the inside shoulder of the dampner is about 1/4 inch from the timing cover seal. The snout of the crank is still about 3/4 from being flush with the outside plane of the dampner. IS it in all the way? The timing cover seal is not flush with the timing cover and lacks about 1/8 inch from being flush with it.

Clark Very impressive. I am so jealous. I am sure she is very happy in her new clothes. She is gonna treat you right. What will be the total list of mods when you go to the track next. When is the next outing. Very interested in your progress. Please post event pics and videos as they come in. Good Luck!!!

Very sorry for your loss. What are the details on your wreckless driving?

Has anyone ever tried to mount 245/45r16s on 10" wide wheels? If so what has been your experience. This is for track use.

Darius Your car is the inspiration for my build. My project is in the first year and I hope to get rolling soon. Thanks for the videos and I look forward to more.

I want the 3.545 ratio. Maybe they are easy to find locally. I thought that shipping a ring and pinion would be cheaper than the whole enchilada.

I use diamond racing wheels. Steel Wheel but they are at the right price. Need to buy the right offset. Last time I checked with them they had a set of 4x4.5 16" 12 " wide. BTW what tire are you getting in a 275/45r16. I am interested. I am currently looking at Kuhmo ectas 712 255/50r16 and stretching them onto a 10" rim.

Is it possible to swap the ring and or the ring and pinion from a 77/ 3.90 with a 81 280zxt 3.545? Both use 10mm bolt on the ring I think. Is it just a matter of replacing them?

My ex race car ran 13.5:1 with venolia forged pistons.

Running a 1970 350 sbc. I would like to know what oil pans are being used. Stock? Increased Capacity with baffling? Also what oil pumps to use in conjunction with oil pan. I would like to use a 6 or 7 quart with baffling as this will be a track car . Yes I have searched for oil pan as a keyword. THANKS. I am getting closer.

the 944 or 944t compared to a 1st gen z is apples and oranges. The 944 with the rear transaxle is just a different animal all together. Posted my impressions earlier http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96274&highlight=13th

Excellent!!! Thanks!! It agrees with all the other posts I have researched here.

First Thanks for all the help in the past. Now I want to put a sfi rated balancer on my 1970 4 bolt main. The machinist said I would have to get the whole rotating assembly rebalanced if I used an aftermarket balancer. When I built my racing L28 I took all the rotating pieces and had them balanced. The Machinist would only concern himself with the rod pistons and crank. He said the race clutch and euro dampener were already balanced that all we need to do was the rods crank and pistons. Everything seemed to spin well up to 7850 rpm. I have read that a 400cid sbc is externally balanced and others are internally balanced. Does externally mean balanced with the balancer and flywheel/clutch? Does internally mean just the pistons and rods? Is a 1970 sbc 350 cid intaernally or externally balanced? Bottom Line. Can I use an aftermarket balancer(fluidampener) without rebalancing the whole assembly. My suspicion is that if the flywheel is balanced and the aftermarket balancer is balanced that it would be no problem. Anyway All facts and opinions are welcome!!! Thanks

I want to put my old racing rims, 16x10, on my new 77. The lips have been rolled and flared somewhat. I am having problems finding street tires. The best thing I have come up with is a 255/50r16. several makers. Most recommend a max rim width of 9". One actually recommends a max of 10". So this looks like the candidate. It has a outer diameter of 26.1". My old goodyear sports car slicks had an OD on 23.5". Guess I wont be dialing down the coilovers to low. Just wondering if anyone has ever run this size tire and what experience you had. Thanks

BBZ Have you determined a cause? The rod bent. Had you done any polishing of the rod beams? Not that that would have prevented it. Just trying to diagnose the problem. what would cause force enough to bend the rod? No Nitrous involved is there? Detonation? I know it is probably to quick to hear. I guess the cam broke due to the seizure of the piston. something had to give.

Bill What are the headers that you are using in the picture? engine looks good. Nice and clean. Mine is at the machine shop getting reamed. Joe