yetterben

I will take some. But...what i did was cut out all the offending rust. I had a good 1/2 3/4 inch good metal at the bottom near the frame rail. What i did was fab the pieces por 15 the whole area. Tack welded the piece on the inside of engine bay. Tack weld the piece on the outside in the wheel well. Stich weld the whole thing. Suck the pieces together in the middle with rivets. Por15 again and then 3m seam sealer all around to seal the area from air and moisture. Its not the prettiest fix in the world but this car gets tormented on the street and track. I can say that my repair is better strength wise than when it left the factory.

UPDATES!

Much progress over the last week. All my fuel goodies showed up(still waiting on surge tank) Plumbed in all my Earl's fittings. I must say the super stock hose is very nice and very flexible and does not kink until extreme angles. Fired the car up for the first time in about 7 months. Sprang to life and the triples let out a HOWL. Man does it sound good. It quickly drooped back down to my famous 450rpm idle and it sounds good. Will snap a video later but i got a more work to do. Inter-cooler and to finish up the plumbing on the fuel end. My only concern at this point is the chokes on the back of the webers. The choke covers are open to atmosphere at the bottom. I had to remove the covers to clear the intake but i am worried about blowing pressure out the back on boost. In theory this should not happen but who knows. 2nd startup

Is there a good place to find the all thread rods and the little ball cups for custom linkage lengths? Having a issue, i installed a mikuni short runner intake with weber carbs and trying to figure out a linkage setup. Linkage has never been my forte and always have a hard time with the custom stuff. If anyone also has pictures of how they did it on the Mikuni short runner intake please post them up.

If your near Wisconsin i got a n42 block i will just give you good shape too.

Glad we could help. Old rx's are like Jaguars and Z's better to find a good chassis and a ok/bad motor than one that runs great and is rusted out. These old jap tin cars are getting hard to find parts for a rx2 or 3 is so hard to say find a good fender or whatever. Let alone floor stuff which would all need to be custom. Hell i would trade my zed right now for a decent rx3-sp. They do not exist in the midwest.

insight into what? stud size? m8 1.25 x45mm

I read that thread but what is the real deal daddy-o

I would love to know why no one talks about this what happened did the car pop on pinks...i read the raffle thread but not much info. Who slopped paint all over the block?

Note of concern: The fact you cracked the keg at 180,xxx and did not change the seals or housings for that matter tells me that keg did not have that many miles on it. In all of the engines i have done or custom built over 50 i have never seen one that high that did not have housing chattering or plating chipping off around the edges if not more severally. Seals can be re used sure sure. Apex seals sure sure side seals? Corner seals? Side seals are just as important as apex seals my man and i hope you got new ones and etched them down and dropped them in. Not turning this into a pissing match its good there is a fellow rotard here. When you stated research i hope you don' think i am a internet warrior as this comes from years of my own experience. Rotaries fail at high rpms due to bearing walk and stationery gear cracking and e shaft flex. Also because the oiling is not there threw the shaft. Torsion bolts flex in the middle iron and the whole keg stretches and allows coolant seals to shatter. When i do custom builds i have a billet sleeve that inserts threw the middle iron so the torsion bolt cant flex it has a home so to speak instead of passing threw the iron. Ceramic seals are not the answer to anything neither are the unbreakable ones. They just chatter and cause massive housing wear. Its like buying life time brake pads and running regular rotors. Brittle injection line where mentioned but on any rotary i have ever had its just not to be trusted non of them even the cpu controlled ones from the s5 on up. The pumps themselves made buy mikuni are just junk and fail. The older 12a are simple to rebuild sure just a few o rings. But the later ones are bad bad bad. I would think anyone could see oil oozing from a cracked nylon hose for supply. Is premix the answer no but its a important key when looking at a rotary does the owner have a clue what you're talking about when you ask him if he premixes? If not well your call. Some people ran those apex's dry took off the pump after it barfed and never ran it again.......SCARY! anyway its time for breakfast.

Hybridz is hybridz but to take a rotary out of anything that says rx is removing its soul and why its a rx. You will ruin the car make it worthless. you wanna butcher a rx butcher a 7 there are not many 2 or 3's left. In the end its your car your money and just yours but there is no point in getting a rx to remove the rotary NONE. go get a 510 or another little banger that is well suited and swap it out.

i have never lost a apex on one of my builds but on others and including factory junk 3 piece apex seals yes i have had them come out the tail pipe. When they dislodge then can float around the housing until they get smashed and embedded in a rotor face or they can fly out the exhaust port. I am trying to make it known that rotaries are amazing engines but are not for the timid or someone who is not willing to spend serious cash. The longevity of the rotary has long been a topic heated in fact of discussion. When nsu first released felix's design in the spider apex seals where only lasting 2-5,000 miles. Mazda started to perfect his design and really did not succeed until the later 12a models. The 10a and early twin dizzy 12a where basically junk and the nitride coating in the housings and on the iron faces where not up to bar for the high demand. In 79 mazda did a massive recall on all Sa's for chucking apex seals. The fd is notorious for chucking them at 50-60,000 due to there crappy 3 piece design. My only thing i wanted to convey is rotaries are not for the timid or casual mechanic. They are very very specific and must be treated with care. The owner MUST be willing to take care of it in a specific fashion. People give rotaries a bad name cause they flog the piss out of them and leave them high and dry. One who understands how the 3 moving parts work and create compression on there otto cycle and what must be done to make them reliable sees great success and is rewarded with the best sound and performance in the world per liter ratio bar none in the world. I was not trying to post dis belief or mis understanding only hat can happen when not taken care off. Mis used. Just cause the the tach says 9 grand and pulls to 10 does not mean it should be done. Often people over rev a rotary not relizing that the seals in the housings are chattering at that speed wearing the plating off and causing a bigger tolerance inside. Care full modification to the ecentric shaft and oil galley must be made to have long life above 8,500. Often the Oil injection system is broken or the hard line are starving the apex seals off oil Hence the pre mix statment. Anyserious rotard pre mixes fuel as to never trust the oil injection. Pictures below of What a damaged housings looks like after the inevitable a apex seal failure. (Thanks to Aaron Cake for pictures) My point here is to inform and help the young lad make a decision on if he is ready to walk this road its a fun road and rewarding but can be long and painful if you fall a stray. ROTARD FOR LIFE BABY!!!! Some good info on Kevins site http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/tech_engine_int_damage.html

I will say this rotaries are not YOUTH friendly cars. You have to be prepared to shoot a apex seal out the tale pipe and any given time. A half bridge/street port is probally gonna idle at 1,500-2,000 rpms. BRAP BRAP BRAP sounds good but its loud. Sucks fuel and pisses off neighbors. Rotaries are fantastic engines. But there finicky. You need to be ready to premix fuel with good two stroke oil or idemitsu oil from japan. Idemitsu is 7 bucks a quart. Never ever ever ever trust that the mop works(oil injection) Rotaries can not be quick started and shut off they will flood. I have bought many a rotary engine casue it wont start. Outside of apex seals flying out the tail pipe towards on coming traffic hehehehe coolant seals can go if the keg is stressed or overheated. You ever driven a rotary with a 2 barrel idf.....not street friendly its basically wot or noting. Not saying its not tuned for street driving but it wont be loads of fun on the street. I think unless you have deep pockets to not go near a rotary until you are older wiser and have more cash. What turns alot of people off about them is they break they dont know how to fix them and then they say its junk from lack of knowledge. once a rotary blows usually on the back rotor the apex seal spins inside the housings tears it all to **** and renders that whole section junk. So they cant really be REBUILT so to so to speak unless you get a new housing. Often a new rotor and new apex seals etc etc. It can get pricey fast.

13b was always a option from rx2-rx5 cosmo sedan. twin dizzy 12a where put it the rx2 and early rx3. The 13b was not ironed out until the rx4 came around. I have had a 4 sa/fb 2 fc and one rx4 wagon of doom lol. Anytime anyone on this board needs help assembling a motor please let me know can be anything from a floor sweeper from used apexs to a all out 20,000 4 rotor i can even do 3 rotor with renesis irons. Rotarys belong in rotary vehicles i am uber anal about it look up on rx7club where a guy is building a trick nova with a 3 rotor in it to piss off all the v8 guys that drop sbc in rx7's

I got crap tons of experience with them find a sp drop a 20b in it dont murder a uber rare rx3 i know i know hybrid z but a 20b is where its at man. If you need help with a bridge port or perphial port or even a 4 rotor let me know. Look for one with a 13b not a 12a twin dizzy. The 13b 4 port has r5 nitride irons that are worth some serious mula. Seek out wackeyracer on rx7club.com under the other rotary section thats his orange one

One pump street/autocross car. Barb fittings are prefred. .5 gallon is good. Mounting in engine bay.

On the forum. I need a cylinder with a mount on the back. Its going in the engine bay. all the ones on ebay are flat mount on the trunk or floor.

On the forum. I need a cylinder with a mount on the back. Its going in the engine bay. all the ones on ebay are flat mount on the trunk or floor. Also i need barb fittings not an fittings.

Anyone building these around these parts. need one asap.

Good call on the 7th injector hopefully it will keep that furnace under control. Like we discussed before camden is dead has been for 30 years. They only sold about 3 units a year. The low end torque was needed on a rotary, between 5-9,500 rpms it was a Inferno of heat. Of course at that rate the charger was prob spinning in excess of 20,000 rpms. Hopefully that wont be a issue on the Zed. I am still looking for a diagram man i had one and i will get one again.

colored looms general debauchery.etc

Oil line will be moved not much going outside i re studded the intake exhaust and installed my intake and header with turbo and down pipe.Carbs will be Beautified sooner or later. Function over beauty at this point. Few weeks till she is done.

Well.....seeing as how the only place you can get parts for that blower anymore is Atkins Rotary it is of concern Seeing as how Atkins guys are huge ****** bags and dont like Z's i would be concerned. Meth is not recommended either unless its under the blades so something has to be shot on top of that blower. It is a wet design. I await updates to see how this will be tackled. I am sure Brian has something. I can attest that that thing is a huge furnace at 7 psi let alone anything higher. Taking the back half off and checking the lobes and seals is a good idea but i think i mentioned that before to him. Studs in the lower intake where the charger bolts on is also a good.

How are you going to keep the teflon on the lobes from melting? They need fuel for lube and to keep them cool. When my camden ran dry with no fuel the teflon melted and the lobes warped bad enough to crack the rear casing. that debacle cost me a blower and a few apex seals when it went dry at 9 grand in my 7

I did not think we needed clarification that it was a FD guess we did lol. Yamaoto is a great guy to deal with.