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FricFrac last won the day on March 26 2016

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About FricFrac

  • Birthday 09/13/1972

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    Victoria, BC
  • Interests
    Z Cars - duh ;) R/C touring and pan car racing, Electronics, etc...

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  1. Sounds like a hard short to ground. Likely a wire worn through the insulation to the chassis.
  2. Yes.... and your Datsun 510 or your 620 pickup or your S13 240SX, etc, etc....
  3. Do yourself a favour and run aftermarket gauges..... which will require their own wiring.
  4. I live in Canada - most every 280ZX I've come across has very good if not perfect dash. Just depends on how much sun the dash got. I have two from WA - one is mint and the other has some spliting on the dash. My FL car has a mint dash as well. Both US cars with mint dash lived in a garage. I keep a dash cover on my WA car as it doesn't currently live in a garage. Remeber plastic has a UV inhibitor typically from manufacturing but it tends to off gas eventually so you want to use a quality UV inhibitor/cleaner like Optimum Protectant Plus, etc (NOT Armourall).
  5. Don't forget social media like DPAN on Facebook, etc I would try and track down the 280ZXT dizzy and oil pump spindle. It's bolt on and bolt off - doing the same thing right now to my son's 280ZX NA as we convert it back to EFI (but MS3 instead of the stock system).
  6. Finding a used 280ZXT dizzy is getting to be a real challenge now. Some have modified the Jeep cam sensor IIRC to mate up to the old pump spindle. I thought another cleaver way would be a cam gear and hall sensor mounted on the valve cover. You can always run a crank sensor as well. I like the 280ZXT dizzy with the diyautotune trigger wheel. Gives you crank and cam outputs if you want to go sequential fuel and/or spark. It an easy bolt in solution. The 123 looks nice but its complete overkill when you will be running a stand alone. I've done a few NA MS setups - are you staying stock or thinking of boosting?
  7. Congrats - amazing looking 280ZX! Hard to find them in this condition but there are ones just like you describe - sitting in a garage for years. Oil in the filter. I'd take it apart and see if there is oil in the piping going back to the throttle body or if someone just left a jug of oil and it spilled on the filter housing. I would think you would have some massive oil consumption to get oil all the way to the filter which is pushing air against the source of oil from the PCV valve. Every L I've had in good working order never burnt a drop of oil. Once the rings go or the valve steam seals its a different story of course. I also had a barn find 280ZX. Had to replace so many items due to it sitting unused for so long. Fuel tank, injectors, hoses, belts, struts, etc, etc. Stiffer springs and struts are always a nice upgrade from the stock marshmallow suspension. Makes it a lot more enjoyable for some spirited driving.
  8. Buy matched injectors. Stock injectors can be out as much as 10% from each other (tolerance is +/- 5%). People tend to glaze over this critical piece of equipment. You could be running dangerously lean on one cylinder but have a moderate AFR reading since it only averages all six cylinders.
  9. Why are you running two injectors per cylinder? You might want to upgrade to a modern ECU. You'll probably have a hard time finding a Tuner that will work with that dinosaur A rear mounted intercooler is just complicating things and adding piping - you want to minimize it as much as possible....
  10. Use the stock tranny - it's pretty decent. If/when it fails the S13/S14 is probably the simplest/cost effective/available. The Z31 turbo/Z32 is one of the toughest Nissan trannies but it's more work to adapt
  11. Is it the plug for the automatic testing system module located under the dash?
  12. 81 is completely different - its CAS. You need a pull up resistor either inline or built into the MS unit itself
  13. I use Fair enough - let me rephrase that then: I use Mil Spec wiring (if you want the part numbers I can list them). That is Teflon coated and often silver plated (depending on the Mil Spec number of course) wiring. It is heat and chemical resistant and can carry up to twice the current of lower grade wiring of the same gauge. It is excellent for engine bays because it is virtually impervious to the effects of gas and oil - it will not become brittle and break when exposed to these conditions over time as do most other types of insulation. I'm an Electronics Engineering Technologist and worked for the Military for 15 years in electronics during which time I have built and repaired countless wiring harnesses and connectors according to Mil Specs. Base on the knowledge of those systems and my training I design my harnesses for maximum noise immunity BEFORE it ever makes it to the ECU. A lot of companies are happy to let the software take care of (most of) the errors produced by noise. The engine bay is not only a harsh environment physically but also electrically. There is a lot of noise induced into sensor lines. I use Mil Spec (again numbers provided if that has any use to anyone) shielded wiring for ALL sensors and a properly designed grounding system throughout the entire harness. I'm trained in Mil Spec soldering, connectorization, metrology, noise immunity, etc. Typically when someone says their harness is Mil Spec it just refers to the use of Mil Spec wiring and/or connectors NOT the above techniques which do produce a very high quality product. My products have been around for years - ask anyone who has one about the product and/or support and I'm sure you'll find that statement to be true. Hopefully that clears up any confusion.
  14. Hey guys - sorry about not being available but I am back making my high grade mil spec harnesses and plug and play systems (and I mean mil spec - not just the phrase people throw around in the automotive industry now adays ) If you have any questions feel free to ask or give me a call directly at 250-896-5930.
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