240Z2NV

Thanks for the support. I have read "Custom Auto Electronics & Auto Electrical" and "Hot Rod Wiring" [which was essentially a LONG advertisement for Painless]. I have scoured 12Volt.com as well as other sites. I have yet to find ANY source that SPECIFICALLY states which relays should be used for my particular application. I get caught up when they suggest determining 'Normally Open', 'Normally Closed', 'Positve Switching', 'Negative Switching', 'Double Negative Switching', use of diodes to prevent 'backflow' energizing.....yada, yada, yada. Once it starts getting technical, my eyes cross. I have the OE schematics for the donor car for the LS1, and OE schematics from the Z; but, figuring out how to integrate the two, with modern covenience functions ...... ??!!*$@# Even the OE schematics don't specify which relays are being used. And the Diodes.......

My engine bay harness is complete [LS1], although I have yet to finalize the BEST way to handle the draw of my Lincoln 18" [not 17" Taurus] fan. I have to wire from headlight to tail light, again, with the exception of the engine bay. I have made three 'project boxes' that house 48 circuits for fusing, and am completing my second project box to house ten tab mount relays. I am open to ANY solutions. I am just too desperate to get it on the ground [in case I lose my house :~( ]. If you have a circuit board in mind, I am open to all alternatives. My soldering isn't bad at all. But, a jet aircraft mechanic friend of mine highly enouraged me to avoid soldering connections in main wiring runs. He isn't comfortable with relays, etc on 12V applications, so his assitance has been limited to more 'cosmetic' aspects. Both of you guys are ENCOURAGED to PM me to discuss further. Thanks !!!!!

THANK YOU !! I know Dave, the guy that you mentioned on Classic Z Cars. He has helped me acquire many of the modern electrical components that I am trying to install, as well as done an LED tail light conversion for me. He doesn't have time to answer my numerous questions. Good guy, though. If you need a dash harness, I might have the correct one that I pulled from a jy car. I do not want to use ANY old wires or connectors. I plan to use new wire, heatshrink terminals, etc. for a 'Sanno' install. If you are available to answer my [NUMEROUS] questions about the circuits, we can communicate via PM so as not to have a HUGE thread here. We can also discuss how much you'd like to be paid to help. Thanks very much. I suppose it was pretty clear in my op how frustrated I have become....

I have gotten to the point of either walking away from this six year build, or taking a sledge hammer to it. This project began with the anticipation of assistance in areas where I have minimal knowledge. Finding reliable folks AFTER-their commitment, is like finding a needle in a haystack blindfolded. Anyway, I am wiring the build FROM-SCRATCH because it began its Life with me having ZERO wires in place. I have read two books, and posted ads on craigslist to PAY FOR ASSISTANCE, and to no avail, here I am. I am so close to being able to do final asembly; but, I want to do wire runs first. Please do not ask why I just didn't buy a Painless kit.... So, I am looking for help from someone with expertise in advanced wiring, relays, capacitors, diodes, etc. I am more than happy to pay someone for their time TO ANSWER QUESTIONS. I do not need someone to do the work, just help me diagnose and formulate the circuits [which I have drawn up individually on poster boards]. I cannot express how much I would appreciate any help at this point. I do not have much money, been out of work for eleven months; but, I am SURE that we can arrange fair compensation to answer questions. PLEASE.

SEM makes a catalyzed kit called "Hot Rod Black HR010" everything that you need comes in a box, just mix it all together and shoot. Looks VERY nice, and will not 'chalk' on you later. Satin / Semi-Gloss Black is the best of both worlds when going black. Flat looks dirty ALL of the time, and gloss is conspicuous when part only of it is dirty or chipped. My .02 The satin black engine bay is most familiar to 'older' hot rod guys. In the sixties and much of the seventies, all cars came with black engine bays. Now, it is more of a 'Newstalgia' look. It is also MUCH more practical in the event of future exterior color changes. Everyone has an opinion.....

I am not affiliated with this person in ANY way; and, I certainly understand his position. That being said, for someone 'in the market', this could be a GREAT find !! FWIW http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1098108849.html

Here is the update on MY end....after pouring over everything that I could find, laboring over which wheel achieves my desired 'look', I pulled the trigger. I think that Tony was on to something early on with his apprent frustration over 'differences' in our cars [same models essentially]. After [indirectly] confirming what others have fit under their OE wheel wells, and using coilovers, I ended up staggering sizes. I got 17x8 +35 w/ 225/45-17s in front and 17x9 +35 w/ 255/40-17s in rear. The fronts seem to clear with an 8mm spacer on the standard 10" coilover [netting a +27 in front]. The rears [PITA] have 8" coilvers, based upon my readings and communications here, to clear the tires. I am up to 17mm in 'spacers' [using washers until it is all ironed out, then I will have them made up correctly] in an effort to clear the strut tubes !!!!?! Which is a net +18. That fitment not only will not clear my fender lips; but, it is quite a bit 'less' positive offset than several others seem to have gotten to fit [e.g. my 'rolemodel car' fit 17x9 +27] . So, it appears that each car has different geometries ??!! Now, I am really understanding Tony's exasperation with the variances of one person's fitment 'success' over another's. The saying YMMV is just [sadly] too true. Incidentally, my BNIB Centerline Tracers are still available for anyone interested in 16x8 +0. They are NOT your [old] Centerlines....these look similar to Foose Newstalgias, and [at least I believe] would look SHARP on a clean-lined Z car. They are currently being offered [at a loss...and bought AT COST] on Craigslist locally. Will put them on eBay when car is rolling.

'Dan'...that's what I thought. The guy at Upgrade Motoring told me that they sold the vinyl "REPAIR" kit which was to be applied to 'the PIECES'. I tried not to come off as argumentative; but, there is no attachment point for a 'piece' along the door opening header 'rails'...unless it clips on somehow.... ? My understanding has always been that it is merely foam-backed vinyl that is simply glued to the metal. Anyway, a template would be HUGELY appreciated. PM me, and we can discuss. I am happy to pay for it, but perhaps I have an unusual part that you may need. Thanks... Stan

Searched, and nothing came up under "Headliner" as it pertains to my dilemma. As many of you might know by now, my car came to me as a STRIPPED, NON-rolling shell. Over the many years of this build, I have accumulated parts to 'make a whole car out of a partial car'. It has been tedious, to say the least. Around every corner seem to be yet another piece that the car needs in reassembly. Which....brings me to my next hurdle. As in the original poster, I could REALLY use some pics of the pillar pieces, and front piece that visors mount to. There are reupholstery kits online; but, one vendor said that I need the "pieces" to ATTACH the vinyl to...... ??? I thought that the vinyl was attached to the metal of the car. Apparently, there is some semi-rigid piece that 'mounts' in those spaces...and I haven't a clue what they are made of. It is highly likely that I will have to 'create' a piece for this detail; but, a pic [or more] for reference would be greatly appreciated. THANKS !!!!

The cement that Tap Plastics sells in the red & white tube [#16 ?] is a generic adhesive. It seems to be holding fine. The repair that I made wasn't a super high-stress point. When I repair ABS, like motorcycle fairings, I use abs shavings from a scrap piece of bodywork, then mix it up into a 'paste' with ABS cement sold at places like Home Cheapo. Apply the 'paste' over the chamfered crack, and it holds surprisingly well. Then sand and finish...

Again, thanks for the input Tony. I am five lug, first off, and I already have huge, long ARP wheels studs which would make most of those adapters difficult, at minimum to install. The issue is by getting the same sized wheels front to back, I have interference that is HIGHLY likely to occur at full cock steering. "So, go smaller" one might say. Well, then the REARS will not be filled out as desired. It 'seemed' that my previous proposal was a means to get the best of both worlds...I just wanted a 'community affirmation'....

I am hopeful that one of you out there can say [with CERTAINTY] what type of plastic the console is made of.... Perhaps not in practice 30+ years ago, virtually all plastic pieces nowadays have a stamping on the back with a code that depicts exactly what type of material it is, and my console has no such mark. I became fairly competent at repairing the fairings on my race bike, and that was ABS [mostly]. I am hopeful that one of you can respond and say with certainty that the consoles are as well. That way, I can make a very small repair using my tried-and-true technique. Thanks...

Since they are 'fixed', meaning no articulation/recline/fold-forward function, I SERIOUSLY doubt that they were OE on any car. My money is on aftermarket, and they have probably already been reupholstered from their original appearance. My .02

So, I am going to bring up a post of Mr. Coffey's regarding staggered set-ups, and throw out an idea I just had as it pertains to that, for discussion here...it 'should' be relevant: "For a street car a staggered setup will handle fine - you really never get to the traction limits driving on the street. For a track car a square setup handles better. FYI... keep your overall tire diameter under 25" unless you're planning on relocating suspension mounting points. Too big a tire and too low a ride height and the car will handle poorly regardless of staggered or square." __________________ John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com BetaMotorsports, LLC So, taking that into consideration, and some of us wannabe/poser racers [me] want to fully optimize our cars just in case we get it out on a track day or two.... What if, due to wheel selection, and wanting as wide a tire as absolutely possible inside a non-flared REAR fender, we staggered the sizes AND used spacers to bring the narrower fronts out to the fender limits. This would, in theory, make the front 'track' wide [square ?], AND provide the clearance from the frame rails for full range of motion steering ? Also, accomplishing the 'fat meat' rear tire aesthetic. Does that make ANY sense ? Opening for discussion..... I am laboring over this decision because I have already spent [wasted] money on wheels that I thought would fit perfectly [for MY aesthetic], and it turns out they won't [for MY look]. This has resulted in the need to buy short coilover springs [from 10" to 8"] and searching for the 'Right' wheel. The hope of recouping ANY of the money spent on the NEW 10" coilover springs [now 'useless' for me] and the NEW 16x8 +0 5x114.3 wheels [now 'useless' as well] is fading quickly...and I am NOT in any position to be making financial mistake-after-mistake-after....

Ezzzzzzzz , those gauges look AMAZING ! May I ask where you got that turn indicator, high beam, hazard indicator 'gauge' ? I have all Autometer Phantoms, and am putting the pieces into place now, dash is out. Dilemma has been GOOD lighting. I don't think that I feel the need to put the gauges in the OE housings, though a great install. I am comfortable just fabbing some angled 'hangers'.

Thanks guys. Don't know if the 280Zs have the same length; but, when you decide if you will be using them or not, measure the length and shoot me a PM. Need asap, though. As for MSA....I definitely know the feeling. Waited for three months while weatherstrip kits were on backorder. Finally got most of the pieces new off craigslist, and the remaindfer from Precision directly. I will go online and look at the cables on MSA site, call to verify which are IN STOCK, and possibly go that route in order to git er dun ;~)

Hoping that one of you guys doing a race-oriented build, that are fabricating an alternative panel where the vent, heater, defrost levers are might have some cabling available. I am assembling a car [literally] piece-by-piece, as I started with a NON-rolling chassis only. I have managed to find a good heater core [RARE], blower assembly, and heater/defrost assembly. I also got the lever assembly; BUT...it was missing the cables. I have gotten the Honda blower motor, so everything is ready to assemble [with my custom bezel courtesy of 'BradMan']. Only thing holding me up is NO cables....and they are incredibly rare at the local jys. Any help would be great. Perhaps I have a part that you need, since I have accumulated a TON of [rare] stuff that I plan on unloading after the car is rolling... ;~) Thanks for reading.....

I'm in the process if reassembling my Heater Control system in my 240Z. It is difficult in that there is virtually NO schematics on the factory Service Manual...even a mention for that matter. Anyway, I believe that you are correct, it appears to be a 260Z HVAC system....and in PRISTINE condition ! Should do quite well on eBay ! The Heater Control Valve alone is about $40, and the Heater Cores are about $100....IF you can find them. No local radiator suppply shops can even order them. Occasionally, they pop up on eBay.

Cannot edit ?? Reverse the "assumption" sentences reference of positive and negative. I realize that I reversed them. Assumption is...that negative cannot tuck under well, we need positive, and work with spacers of various thickness to dial it in...... ????

Link doesn't work ! :~(

BAAALLIIIINNNGGGGG ! [bling]

All excellent responses, THANKS !! I actually wish that I had seen those vendor pieces before bothering Mr. Coffey for his design, and buying the raw stock [with 'hoop'] off of eBay. The time savings alone is worth the $45.

I want to fab some custom 'track legal' tow hooks for my project. Mr. Coffey was generous enough to share a pic of one of his that I am using for 'inspiration'. I fabbed up my rear hook [loop], and know where to mount it. I am working on coming up with ideas for the front, and have a solid idea on mounting location. I just have one painfully simple [i.e. stupid] question. Is there any real rationale as to which SIDE the 'hook' is mounted ? Driver's side or passenger's side ? They are being fabbed from 1/4" thick plate steel, cutting them down to 'regulation' hole dimension, then angled & gusseted to mount at bumper bracket locations. I have this itchy feeling that there is some logic for putting them on one side or the other [driver's / passenger's]. Any of you track boys or fabricators out there have any recommendations ? Thanks for looking....

Understood. I make assumptions on things like the extreme majority of people running coilovers, etc. which is incorrect for me to do. Floating rotors and the like would be very subjective, as well. "15p" and "6p" I gather are the US spec equivalent of +15mm and +6mm, whereas it has ALWAYS been my assumption that + offset wheels are pretty much a no-can-do at any increased width under OE wheel wells. I have operated on the assumption [albeit likely incorrect] that the fitment options for larger wheels in stock wells beagn at 0 offset and went - [negative] thereafter. As you stated spot-on, it ends up being case-by-case since there are soooo many variations of how we [Hybriders] are configuring our cars. In my 'Quest For The Right Wheel' I have made too many assumptions of people's set-ups when looking at these responses to wheel-oriented threads. Glad that you have shown me the light. Seriously...NO sarcasm.