240Z2NV

Unless I'm mistaken, the JCI mount for T56 in 240Z is quite different than the 280Z, since the frame rails are no where near the same dimension....? Am I wrong on this one? Also, what is the 'strap' that you all are referring to?

I have a pic of the main hoop that is bent FOR the '70-78 Z, if it helps; but, I have no hosting service for posting the pic. Email me, and I'll send it to you. handymanstan@comcast.net Ironically, after bugging Mr. Coffey as well as Mr. Mortensen, I think that I have changed my mind about installing the roll bar set-up. My car will see such an infintessimal [TINY] amount of track time, that I just don't think that it is worth it for ME. I have been online SO long reading about roll bar vs. no roll bar....harness vs. no harness. I have Googled, and literally spent ELEVEN total hours reading study-after-study, opinion-after-opinion; and, I think that I have decided that FOR ME, I'm going to stay OE [along with all of the other copious chassis reinforcing that has already been done]. My eyes are literally BLOOD RED from reading so much on the computer! The manufacturer, great customer service that they have [seriously], still will hit me with a 25% restocking fee, so I am hoping to sell it to someone locally who wants it for somewhere [$$] in-between. For those who are curious as to why I would go to such extremes of driving two hours to pick-up this set only to turn around a week later to change my mind...I have seats that I love [RX7 FD], they will position my head close enough to the main hoop that it MIGHT be an issue [in certain crash conditions]. The hoops are considered best for FIXED-BACK seats [i.e. race seats]. The seat belt issue is becoming 'cloudy' for me as to optimal safety, and there are CLEARLY two camps regarding harnesses for street driving [this includes major safety entities]. These are just three issues that I SHOULD have resolved PRIOR to buying the set. The set IS NHRA approved [among others]. It has approved provisions for removing the Harness Bar, and is oversized enough that one could likely make a five point out of it. Really sorry if this turned into a highjack. Wasn't my intent, just wanted to offer explanations. I'd like for you to see the hoop; but, you'll have to email me.

I will add, however, that for simplicity, ease, and quick results, the Autopower sets are probably the way to go. They are more expensive initially; but, time is money!

I JUST bought the kit and picked it up. I am still working on the layout with the help of the experts here on the site. It'll be a while, as NOTHING on my project happens quickly [much to my frustration].

It is on file. They have sold ALOT of them. Very good customer service!

Actually, when you order it, they ask what vehicle it will be used in, and make the main hoop from CAD [?] program to fit, perfectly, the dimensions of the interior. The other pieces are generic; but, the main hoop is the most important, AND the most aesthetically obvious part.

'Yorgee' you might consider checking Chris Allston's Chassisworks in CA. They make ALOT of structural components for NHRA and the like. They make a custom bent main hoop for the '70-'78 Z car, and you can add-on from there. It also makes it possible to add-on in the future, when a budget might permit [e.g. going from an initial four point to an eight or six point]. Once you find their website, start with part number 7000, and go from there. I got my plates, tubes, and gussets, along with removable harness bar for under $300. The 'kit' will require cutting and forming 'birds mouths'; but, it is an alternative...

So....is the short answer to a long question, "No, it is not possible to properly mount a main hoop and retain the floor retractor pockets" ? It appears to be the case, especially considering the great pics provided by John & Jon.

The input on this particular thread was great, as was the link to Jon's big project w/ copious photo documentation. At this point, the only input that I am gathering 'might' enable the use of the OE retractors is Mr. Coffey's suggestion of angling the main hoop into the rocker. In doing so, I fear that I will prevent installation of the interior 'dog leg; trim piece; but, I guess that I just can't 'have my cake and eat it too'. Sorry, old family expression.... Thanks again....I'll continue to scratch my head now.

First, I'd like to offer up an apology to the site administrators, the general 'community', and specifically Mr. Coffey & Mr. Mortensen. I intentionally made the title very vague in hopes of generating more 'hits' based upon curiosity, which 'might' have resulted in more suggestions. I meant no disrespect. I searched 'Retractors' & 'hoop' and didn't get anything, so I thought that my tactic would get responses quicker. Again, my apologies. Now, I'd also like to extend specific appreciation for Mr. Coffey's & Mr. Mortensen's indulgence. I am well-aware of their prominence on the site, as well as extensive experience. Theirs are the insights that I had hoped for; but, didn't want to impose by contacting them directly. I will carefully read the link that Mr. Mortensen provided, and with Mr. Coffey's permission, make follow-up questions directly so as not to impose on the 'community' any further.

Been able to weld in a main rollcage hoop and still retain the 'pockets' in the floor for OE seatbelt retractors? I know it's a bit of a convoluted dilemma. I want a rollcage [4 pt. w/ option of future add-on] yet I want to be able to utilize my OE retractors for everyday street driving. The car is not planned to be used in such a way that I would have to pass a Tech Inspection; however, I like the added safety of the partial cage. For those of you ready to tell me about the Autopower Bolt-in 4 Pt. Set-up. thanks; but, I've been there with those and this build will have something different. I already have the 'kit' from Allston's Chassisworks, I'm just trying to determine if it is even feasible. If not, I'll just 'box' over the floor 'pockets'. Was just hoping one of you skilled genius' [seriously] on the board could give me a better plan. Thanks for looking.

Just thought that I'd give a heads up....I'm not affiliated with the Lister in any way. Just sharing a local 'find'. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/616964570.html

Thought that maybe someone might find this of interest. If it is a crappy deal, sorry! Just thought that maybe someone here might be interested.... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/566893387.html

Wow! You are CORRECT! My catalogs are older than I thought. They must have sold off their Z line to someone else. ♥♥♥♥, that pretty much means that MSA is the only game in town, and with a monopoly usually follows price gouging. Have you tried Z Barn? Although they really only deal in OE salvage type stuff, I believe....but, then again, I was wrong about VB.

I have THREE catalogs of theirs that are specifically for Z cars......?!?

First car = 240SX HANDS DOWN! They are so plentiful, cheap, TONS of aftermarket support, probably one of the cheaper cars to insure of those that are mentioned, and it is [realistically] HIGHLY likely that you're going to wad it up in some fashion. The BMW takes a fair bit more knowledge to work on, is ALWAYS going to cost more for parts. The Supra is beautiful. Much harder to come by. Last, I was actually thinking S10 before someone else mentioned it. Not sure about autoX; but, the vehicle is LIMITLESS with the aftermarket. Went back and saw a posting a bit earlier than this one about a turbo. I REALLY think it would be a MONUMENTAL mistake! It's your FIRST CAR!! Save your money. Take baby steps. Learn. Make your mistakes with potentially lower consequences. Guaranteed you won't have the car that long. At that age, we have the attention span of a ....[??] I'm at a loss.... My .02

'pop n wood', a rust free 280Z for $5k is VERY possible in CA and AZ. I have seen them RECENTLY. Get on the net, if you find one in the SF Bay Area, I'll be happy to check it out for you, and I have pretty extensive rust detecting experience. 'EvilC', same goes for you. I SERIOUSLY doubt that a 30+ yo NE car is "Rust Free"...that'd be like lightning striking you in the eyeball and you only get a headache [WTF, where did that analogy come from?!]. I am happy to check cars out for people out of the area, within a reasonable amount of distance.

Considering the point of impact...you are DAMN lucky! You were blessed, a "stupid mistake" or not, you had a Guardian Angel that night. Walk away from it with the lessons. If the roof is creased as you said, DUMP THE CAR. Shells or bases from which to start a project are WAY too plentiful to bother 'trying' to get it straight again. I've had some pretty twisted cars from accidents. They NEVER drive the same with [fixed] structural damage like that... My .02

Try http://www.victoriabritish.com They 'might' have them. It might also be easier, cheaper, faster to try to find another pair of doors.....?

I laughed when early in the thread you said that you and your buddy wanted to drive it around and get that 'vintage feel', then it looked almost as if you began stripping it down the day that you offloaded it from the trailer. LOL I definitely have been there...just can't wait to jump right in! I hope that you didn't buy your cage yet. Check out Chris Allston's Chassisworks. GREAT pricing, and with your welding skills, should be easy! Shipping is always an issue, especially due to your location. Also, the price that you paid for blasting is the equivalent of PENNIES here [i.e. CHEAP]. Even JohnCs prices are pretty darn good for COMPETENT jobs, compared to SF Bay Area. Last, was it Mikelly's post [?] about the order. I TOTALLY agree. Couldn't have put it more succinctly if I tried. 1,2,3,4,5... SAFETY. Good luck and enjoy! It looks like you are starting off REALLY well. Oh, how was the interior tail light panel? If it wasn't cracked, and was black, PM me....

Nice offer to the 'community'! Really. I always get flashing warning lights at contradictory ads "...needs TLC. Great condition..." ; but, you just never know. The best buys [good deal wise] are typically when the seller has no idea what they have....

IF that is truly the only structural issue with the car, you STOLE it! Congrats!! And, IF that is the only structural issue, the fix is very, very easy.

I remember my first Z. Didn't know how to drive a stick, and my Dad knew NOTHING about Zs, so I bought it 'blind'. 'Ignorance was bliss'. Might have paid too much for it; but, I LOVED that car! Can't believe how much 'tail I got in it for an 19 year old :~0 I 'learned' to drive stick the hard way [on the drive home from buying it]. My Dad was a 'Baptism By Fire' kind of guy. All in all, I have no regrets. All of my subsequent Zs [five] have been a progression of knowledge, maturity, and FUNDING. I'll ALWAYS love 240Zs!

Don't waste your time!! You're asking for nothing but headaches with a fishy situation like that. I had to deal with a 'funny' registrtion issue with my shell in CA, and it was a HASSLE. I used to live in OR for a brief period [too damn much rain], and I know that the DMV was really loose there; but, there are just too many cars out there to bother with this one. Why is it that you are so concerned with rust when you will need to do MAJOR, MAJOR fabrication for your "1000hp" build? My Granny [rest her soul] used to have a saying "Gag at a gnat and swallow a camel". If that isn't clear to you, PM me.. ;~)