240Z2NV

Thanks for the input. Some of the 'old timers' on here might know me as big on 'research'. I spend copious amounts of time on the net reading any info I can find on areas of importance, especially for safety. I often Google [e.g. " Automotive Custom Wire Harness"], then I read everything that I can find. One of the tech sites had some electrical engineer/enthusiast reviewing harnesses. He SPECIFICALLY named American Autowire as a class-action lawsuit [for liability] waiting to happen. He was extremely critical of the AWG wire that they used. Now, granted, this discussion [forum] was a few years old; but the poster [critic] attends SEMA every year. No cause for concern, just passing along information that I have read and printed out. I cannot deny or confirm the validity of the 'reviews'; but, he seems very well-informed and credible to boot. One of the harnesses that he was quite positive about was "Russ Francis' " ?? I might have it wrong, I'm sure it is bookmarked somewhere in my files. As stated earlier, I am pre-occupied with using proper AWG wire for various circuits. I have experienced a car fire in a freshly finished 'show car' and it is something that I care not to repeat. If anything I want to error on the side of too heavy a AWG. Ideally, a very high strand count is said to be optimum. Another 'button' of mine is that I want the fuse block COVERED. Alot of those ready-made kits do not have covered main terminals. It'll be a while before I need to have it all together; but, after pricing everything out to get the harness that best fits my 'needs', it is a 50/50 split for building my own with proper AWG wire that I order from Waytek Wire or eBay. Still 'shopping' for the best deals on Weatherpack connectors.

IIRC the EZ Wiring harness uses predominantly 18AWG, as does the Painless. According to my two automotive electrical wiring books, "Hot Rod Wiring" & "Custom Auto Electronics & Auto Electrical" [Thanks OWEN!] the AWG that they recommend for many circuits is 10-14AWG. For circuits like Alternator, they recommend 8AWG, I believe (it's been a while). On the Painless & EZ kits, there are virtually NO circuits with that heavy a gauge. I believe that the Alt. circuits are 14AWG on them, which is way underrated according to every source that I've checked. If anyone can enlighten me, I'd be most appreciative. I posted a few months back asking for recommendations on how many circuits and got ONE response...from someone telling me that they used the OE harness IIRC. Then again, I have had some isp difficulties, so I may have missed a direct response. TIA

Not affiliated with the seller in any way. Sounds like a great find! http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/650699612.html

As stated by someone on page 2, I believe...NONE of the kits pictured [especially on page 3] are 'Moulded'. I used a TRUE moulded kit on my '66 Mustang, and HOPED that they were available for the Z; but, if the pieces lie flat on the ground when spread out...they most definitely are NOT 'Moulded'....

I was seriously considering making my own ENTIRE harness from bulk wire bought off FleaBay. At least that way, I can be assured of the proper gauge wire. What has bothered me the most about the majority of ready made harnesses is the use of VERY light AWG wire. There are also much less expensive [& COMPARABLE] harnesses out there for less than PainFUL[less].

I've never seen those rusted either, in MANY years of Z ownership. My assumption as a result was that those pieces were Stainless as well.

If you guys are talking about the thin trim pieces that go around the windshield/hatch glass, as stated before, it is STAINLESS STEEL which is considerably different than 'Chrome'. The thought of "sanding" those incredibly delicate and flimsy pieces sounds like a nightmare. A powdercoater will probably beadblast them after fastening them to a rigid surface. Once those pieces are dinged, it is nearly impossible to get them perfect again. I have a few sets JUST in case the glass installer bends a piece trying to slide them into those tiny channels. It has happened more than once. I would highly recommend NOT sanding these stainless pieces.... FWIW

PMs sent. Thanks...

Why not on a Z? Those look pretty sharp! Details, please....

Centerline Tracer 16X8 0 Offset 5X114.3 Thinking that I should have ordered 16X7s because I now think that the clearance of the outer well will be an issue. Didn't think it through well-enough, and they don't take returns on made-to-order. It's is sort of retro, and I think that it will be just enough 'shiny' to tie into the other minimal chrome.

They are pretty much as aesthetically perfect as one could hope.... Did you have them done the traditional way, or graft a section on with them completed 'off-hood'?

That's weird!?!.... Anyone else ever have their photobucket pics just DISAPPEAR?!? I had two whole albums just vanish!

I agree wholeheartedly! Absolutely LESS functional inverted; however, I was going for a certain 'undisturbed' aesthetic. You are spot-on regarding the idea of function over 'form'.

WTF??!! Has anyone else had their photobucket pics spontaneously disappear?! Let's try this again... "Sparky", I'm almost disappointed to see the public posting of those inverted louvers. I thought that I was the only one...hadn't seen them on ANYONE else's. Got inspired by an old 60's Jag. Oh, well, brilliant minds think alike ;~)

The spike is actually higher amperage than that. There is TONS of info about it RIGHT ON THIS SITE....

I have some pics of a piece that I would love replicated. Problem is, any fabrication shop that uses CNC and computerized programming either needs a huge minimum order, or wants a King's Ransom for just a couple of pieces. AZ Z Car chooses not to sell this part separately. Another Hybrider has made the piece; but, they aren't active here much and I'd prefer to deal with someone else. I sincerely believe that if any of you were to replicate the piece, there would likely be a demand of at least two dozen pieces [or more if 'marketed' elsewhere like eBay or ClassicZcars]. Each car needs two to four pieces per application. It is the sort of thing that one would work on in 'off-hours' to design, then possibly machine on their lunchbreak...... ?

You could 'graft' on NACA ducts. They come in many sizes, and if you get the 'plastic' type, you might be able to carefully heat it up enough to get the contour of the hood slope in front of the radiator. The thing that you will need to be prepared to contend with in a location BEFORE the radiator is the significant slope of the hood. The ducts that I chose to use were too rigid, so I grafted mine behind the radiator on the hood where it flattens out. True, not as much 'Ram' air; but, it still brings air into the engine compartment for generalized cooling. Most important for me was the aesthetic. This is a pic of a GORGEOUS Z done by another Hybrider. Sorry, it has been too long since I put this pic in my 'private stash' for me to give the owner specific credit. The car as a whole is exceptional.

Valid points. There is a TON of info on the net AND THIS SITE about the [famous] Taurus fans. They are very popular for rock crawlers and off roaders. The Taurus has S shaped blades, DOES pull alot of [spike] amps at start-up; but, most here seem to find a way to deal with it. The Lincoln fan is bigger, with pie-shaped blades. Again, ton of info. Just google "Taurus Lincoln Fan" Also, see them on eBay for reference. I do believe that there is a pic on this site comparing the two. If they won't fit your application, it is mute....

Let me preface this post by saying I know absolutely NOTHING about the RB swaps, other than that they look COMPLICATED. That being said, have you looked into the 18" Lincoln fans or the 16" Taurus fans [electric]? They both pull buttloads of air [cfm in the 3500-400 range reportedly].

Check the SF Bay area Craigslist [ http://www.craigslist.org ] for what appear to be some decent platforms for which to do a project. Alot of guys say that they can't find minimal rust, straight cars. Some of these sound pretty fair.... I'm not affiliated in any way with any of the sellers, just passing along an FYI

I'm 98% certain that Owen fabbed those vents. He was quite good w/ fiberglass. Just for shits & giggles, I'll share some pics from the racetrack today that might inspire. I've already made my one-off hood that will be unveiled in due time using directional louvering & NACA duct. The guy that did the louvering was one of THE old school Rat Rodders that essentially invented the technique. He is about 80 yrs. old and still does kickass work! Pics from the track, an '09 Evo Pace Car hood:

Posted on a couple of semi-related threads; but, will put all relevant shots from the track today onto this thread: Hopefully it will inspire....FWIW

Wanted to share some pics from the racetrack today to possibly inspire some of you. I'm not ready; but, always 'storing' ideas.....

I have the Talbot knock-offs. Used them on a couple of 240Z builds; but, kind of bored [eventhough they look nice w/ the 240Z lines IMO]. I was seriously considering the Raydots some time back. What I would do if I were to mount them is fab a piece of sheetmetal to the front of the window frame and bottom [a Triangle]. Then, mount the mirrors to that to get them up above the fender line. FWIW

Just to share some sites from the racetrack today. These seem VERY doable & NOT terribly expensive: