240Z2NV

Save your time! ALL gas tanks are punctured prior to being put in the lot. It is a law. You will either have to use http://www.craigslist.org, eBay, or go aftermarket [fuel cell, GM F-body...]; but, obviously you lose the spare tub. Since CL started in the Bay Area, it has the highest abundance of listings here. It is really a pretty good source. But, don't bother with P-n-P. Now, that being said, a NON-self-serve yard might have one. The law only applies to self-serve yards....

The poster who asked about the side view mirrors: I'm pretty sure that they are Vittaloni "California" mirrors, at least from my eyesight. They used to be in every autoparts store in the 80s. Now, I suppose MSA or eBay..... Back to the car: Class....Pure Class!

Seller has the right attitude...smart enough not to be hoping to rape yet another buyer.... Hope that is sells quickly.

Damn, I just puked all over my keyboard....! ["Honey, I need a towel...or two" ;~) ]

Actually, I believe that those wheels are 'vintage' Hayashi Racing, and quite expensive.....

Once it's cracked, regardless of how minor, it's a "Cracked Dash". The part is over 30 years old, and the material is very unstable [especially if a crack has started]. It could go out into the sun for one afternoon and have MAJOR cracks by the end of that day. I have a dash with a nick [not a crack] that is about the size of half a fresh pencil eraser [on the pencil]. I coated it with a thick layer of Vaseline and it hasn't seen daylight in years. Haven't decided if I will use it or just use another of my 'mildly cracked' dashes and a full cover. But, even with that tiny 'nick', it could still go crazy with a brief exposure to hot sunlight. So, answer to your question: No more than any other cracked dash...unless you find the RIGHT buyer.

The car is REALLY rough, and that's being kind. Maybe I have a skewed perspective being on the 'left coast'; but, that is ALOT of rust to deal with. Candidly, the ONLY thing that the car has going for it are the RHD equipment, and the other jdm bits [bumpers, tail lights. grille, plates...]. There are alot of guys here who will appreciate the car, and aren't afraid of the work involved to 'make it right'; but, the only way to get a bidding war started is to list it somewhere. Put it on eBay for $2-3k as a starting price [HATE 'Reserves'], only because of the value of certain PARTS of the car, and see where it goes. There might be a buyer out there who wants a jdm RHD Z so bad, that he will bid the price way up.

Since you're in CA, post a listing on http://www.craigslist.org for paint. I know that you work at a bodyshop now; but, someone contacted me VERY recently offering me two gallons of PPG DBC Black for a SICK price. I already deleted his contact info since I have no interest in Black; but, for the price he was asking, it would have definitely saved you $300+ in materials...even compared to shop prices.

I agree on the idea of parting out all of those 'tasty' extra goodies that his late Father accumulated. He would make alot more money that way, I would guess. However, having lost my Dad not that long ago, I can certainly understand if his perspective is just to get it all gone in one 'swoop' [think of pulling off a Band-aid]. It sounds like the Seller is overloaded with Life, and his 'Father-Son' project is a monkey on his back. I can appreciate both perspectives.

The pics that have been posted thus far don't tell that much about the REAL condition of the car. You don't have a LOT of Z familiarity, as a new owner, so you aren't focusing on notorious weak spots on early Z cars. This makes it difficult to get accurate assessments from some of the very knowledgeable members here who might look at this thread and offer their comments. Your question has been posed here several times before [e.g. the notorious "Chicken Coop" Z]. The bulk of the active members here belong because it is a community FOUNDED on modifying Z cars to varying degrees. The classic Z car site members will definitely tell you to keep it stock and/or sell it to someone else who will 'cherish it' as is. The majority of people here are comfortable with the notion of "raping" their Zs to make it THEIR personal expression. IF it is REALLY that superclean, you are technically devaluing[?] it with even subtle mods like sound system, etc. There are plenty of decent project cars out there if a hybrid is what you seek, and many of them might already have the hard work done, and the seller is willing to eat alot of their investment just to clear it out. I also agree that prices on eBay can often get 'silly'; but, what is 'trash' to one is 'treasure' to another so it's all fair, I suppose. No one holds a gun to the eBay buyer's head making them bid crazy dollars on an item. I have sold tools and things for well above full retail, so I can only assume that the buyer couldn't get the item locally...but, I digress. The bottomline to your question is: What is it that YOU want out of a Z car? Base your decision on what to do with this car on your answer... Good luck.

If you're thinking 400hp, you'd better forget stroking a Z motor altogether. The V8 swap is more-than-likely your best bang for the buck. Go to http://www.LS1Tech.com for all of the answers to your drivetrain questions. Installation questions will be answered here; but, as stated earlier, SEARCH and READ [bOTH sites]. It's all there...... Also, check bad dog parts [can't remember his exact webpage phrasing] for the structural pieces that you will need for 400hp. They will likely save you a fair bit of time, which equates to money, which you can spend on other things that you WILL need. The other route is to have your welder-buddy do all of the reinforcing using standard steel stock, which MANY have already done here, as well.

I believe that Tabco produces all of the patch panels that Motorsport Auto and Victoria British sells. They are all that I have ever used on several early Z cars.... Better-than-average fit and very reasonably priced.

The front 'spoiler' [valance] is an MSA piece called "Euro" ditto on the "me no likey" as far as the rounded radiator opening. Doesn't fit the straight-ish lines of the Z at all......

For anyone in FL, this sounds like one heck of a starting point. TONS of parts.... I'm in CA, or I would take it VERY seriously... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-Datsun-240Z-Z-Series-w-HUGE-Lot-Of-Parts-LOOK_W0QQitemZ270207366322QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item270207366322

In my many junkyard scavenging experiences, I found that late '95 & on Q45 diffs. came without the 'cooling' fins......

Do a search. There is a complete side-by-side comparison...with pics. Regarding that new bracket...Let's see it!

I'll probably have to fly someone in to HELP ME, or it will simply never get finished.... I'll look for threads on 'flashing the ECU'..... thought that the LS1edit already changed all of that.....

Would it need a 50A SPDT or 50A DPDT Relay? I'll order it from Waytek Wire. JTR hasn't responded to ONE of the five emails that I have sent in the last month or so, so I'll spend elsewhere. The PCM is what switches it, right? **Actually, I think that my question is answered in Cozy Z Cole's sticky on post #37 I'm going to continue to re-read all of the posts. It's just that many here use a manual switch, and I want it all automated so I don't have to worry about accidentally leving it 'on' or 'off'.

Do the Q45 swap. Tons of info here, readily available, and because they are gaining in popularity, there will be more install kits in the near future. my .02 FWIW

They are pretty low-tech with regard to the possibilites of "failure". I got a generic Summit Racing unit. One could easily be made, and I have seen better designs; but, this was a purchase very, very early in the project, and I was just going crazy buying up all kinds of $hit at the beginning. My enthusiasm created many pitfalls. Didn't follow the best advice that I have ever gotten on this project [Tim240Z], and that was "buy items AS YOU GO, WHEN you NEED them". If you follow in my footsteps [hopefully not] you will end up with TONS of boxes filled with parts, and have to repeatedly search for stuff as the need arises. It is difficult to stay organized, and you will very likely overspend.

My appreciation goes out to all of you who gave thought to this. I will mount it toward the front. Kind of my plan; but, my mechanical insecurities begged for support [agreement or consensus]. Thanks!

Thanks to the both of you for taking the time. The "painless" system isn't really so painless at nearly $500. I've looked at others as well, even eBay. One of the things that I really dislike is the fact that so few of those 'stand alone' set-ups come with covers. I want my terminal covered and very clean.

The shell that I bought for my project was just that...a SHELL. I have had to acquire all of the little bits & pieces that we take for granted. My question to those of you who have a fully operational LS1 hybrid that is street driven, with most/all normal conveniences is: How many total circuits do you have on your fuse junction? How many relays/switches? Any Maxi fuses [50A +]? I already have the engine compartment/PCM harness [thanks mas280]; but, I will have to create a complete harness for EVERYTHING else. I know where to get the materials, and have an idea of which terminal I will be using [thanks Tim240Z]; but, still not entirely sure how many total terminals [gangs] that I will need. Based upon the books that I have been reading [thanks Owen], some of the items can be joined on a single circuit; but, I'm not clear as to which ones. So, any of you with daily-type drivers, could you please count your circuits and give me an email or PM? I will be laying the entire system out fastened onto a 4'x8' piece of leftover veneer to check everything. Thank you in advance. Any pics would be GREAT, as well.

'240Hoke' you were correct. I was quoting what I paid at Pick-n-Pull during their Half Price promo. I don't know the EXACT result of the length because I am not on that phase of the never-ending project; however, I held it up to my 240Z, and it is more than long enough. Hadn't planned on mounting battery back there. Thought that I was going to use the small Odyssey battery in the OE place so that I could mount the PCM next to it on that shelf. It is far enough off, that I'm not going to sweat it for now. For seven bucks it was worth it just to have this added option.

If you want to take it to a 'personal level' as indicated in your post, bring it Off Thread.....