240Z2NV

How do you figure? The fenders interchange. The track is the same [isn't it ?]

Thanks for that. Very helpful. May I ask, what offset ?

Your 17x8s and 245s work ? No [major] issues ?

So glad that you reminded me about the RX7 conversion [before I committed to 9s]. I forgot all about that...got so caught up in the size and tires fitting [WTF??!!] I think that I am forced to stick with 8s.......and 235 rubber. :~(

Understood. I, like the original thread author am running NO flares....FWIW. On http://www.cardomain.com there is a guy "450Z" [on this site w/ different username - ??] who is running 255/40-17s on 17x9s under stock fenders [coilovers, of course]...and he runs autocross [presumably without a ton of rubbing]. This gives me hope. It is just that there is a tremendous amount of conflicting information from others' experiences. Biggest issue with my BNIB Centerline Tracers is the 0 offset, and I want them to tuck [just] INSIDE the rolled lips of the fenders. In retrospect, it seems as though the bulk of the folks with challenging fitment are those with negative offset wheels....which I would expect beforehand anyway [iMHO].

Thanks...I was aware of that [previous posts]. "they're lots of them around" ?? Great, if you have a set, I'd be happy to buy them from you. They certainly aren't plentiful on this end....

Yes. It is just that they want $80 to cut me two sleeves that are only 52mm long from 1.25" tubing stock. At this point, I realize that I just have to suck it up and accept that [correctly] building a 36 year old sports car cannot be done 'economically'....

I find this thread informative....yet I still have trouble getting my head around this. One of my 'Ultimate Role Model Cars' on this site is Clifton's. It is just so well sorted out. He runs 275s on 17s in back with stock wells [though likely rolled]. YET, it seems based upon the posters here that it just isn't doable....unless most of you are looking at + offset wheels. He is running negative, with coilovers [as I plan]. I still get very 'anxious' [i.e. nervous] about buying wheels & tires without mocking-up. Most rims are over the net that I seek, which makes mock-up difficult. I'd like to run 17x9 -24 [w/SMALL spacer if needed] on all four corners with 245/45-17. Based upon a PM conversation with Clifton many, MANY months ago, it should be doable. That being said, my mistakes have been getting very expensive these days, and I don't want another 'Do Over'.....just confused, that's all.

The adjustment nuts come with the tie rod ends. Really difficult to understand that they 'can't or don't produce left thread inners' WTF? It is not rocket engineering...so everyone who puts on a repop rack has to deal with returning CORRECT parts ? I just hated eating yet another $40 for a tie rod end that I cannot use, and hoped that someone else could make it a win-win.

Wow, fifty plus 'views' and no one has any ideas ?! Really surprising.....

So, all along in my 'perpetual build that may never be complete' I have run into quandries that defy logic. Had I listened to the very astute, sound advice given me by my friend Tim240Z, I would have purchased parts/materials AS I NEEDED THEM, and not gotten overly enthusiastic and started puking money for stuff from the beginning. Where one of the problems arise is when you get a part that is wrong, or not needed, you cannot return it [even unused] after five years since purchase. I bought a remanufactured steering rack on eBay. Thought it was a good idea as opposed to a 'worn' original piece that I had [though 'wear' was unverified since car was non-roller when I started]. I also accumulated all of the new ball joints, bearings, tie rod ends, etc. in the very early stages of my build. Here's the rub -- The steering rack, though new and in a sealed box, was incorrectly assembled with two RIGHT side inner tie rod male ends. Correct configuration with left & right is one side of outer tie rod end should be clockwise thread, and the other counterclockwise thread [Moog ES2109R and ES2110R verified correct part numbers]. So, now I need two RIGHT side outer tie rods to assemble my 'new' steering rack. Since I failed to heed Tim's advice, I cannot return the 'new' steering rack OR the new-in-the-box tie rod ends !! Is anyone preparing to assemble their steering and has yet to buy their tie rod ends ? I would like to trade straight across a NEW Left Moog side for a NEW right side with anyone. This will work if you have not yet bought your components. Last, use me as an example...buy parts AS YOU NEED THEM, and try not to get caught up in the 'fun' of buying items for your build prematurely. It will save you these types of headaches...of which I have had MANY.

Admins> If this would be better served in Suspension Folder, feel free to move ! I am in the final phases of suspension assembly in order to get my project off the stands for the first time in SIX YEARS. Right now I am assembling the rear suspension. This car is a true hodge-podge of parts from MANY, MANY cars, as it started Life with me as a stripped, non-rolling SHELL [no suspension, no parts other than sheet metal!!]. So, I had my CV conversion made by Modern Motorsports [five or so years ago], and got my strut bodies from a local car being parted out. Coilover assembly completed by Techno Toy Tuning. *Here is my urgent problem* The machine shop that I am having the inner/outer bearings pressed into the rear strut housing informed me that I needed a "spacer" in between the two bearings that slides over the center of the stub axle. Went to Nissan Parts to confirm. Yep, it is called a Distance Piece [sleeve to you & me] and is part number 43091-E4100. Obviously, they can no longer get it. Can anyone suggest a remedy here ? I am very eager to 'get her on all fours'. Fortunately, after Techno Toy powdercoated the strut bodies, the stamping in the strut body did not disappear. Each body has a stamp [A, B, or C] which is VERY specific as to which Distance Piece is needed. Mine was B which calls for a 52.50-52.56mm spacer. The OD of the stub axle area is 1.25", so I conclude that I need a spacer 'sleeve' [TWO] that are 52.53mm long by 1.275" ID. Any thoughts....? Thanks for looking!

See Post 242 on page 13 [i don't know how to copy it into this post, sorry]. I have decided to sell those wheels for anyone who likes that bling/newstalgia look. PM me for discussion, don't need to tie up this thread. Thanks for looking.

Never been a 'Whale Tail' fan...even when they were 'current trendy' in the 70s. That CF Duck Tail however....that looks SHARP !! I am certain that it will have tremendous wind forces against it, so mounting should be 'over engineered' one would think. I'd be interested in how that progresses....

The consumer grade Truck Bed Lining [e.g. Duplicolor, Herculiner...] is NOT the same grade/quality as the commercially applied product that is applied at places like LineX or Rhino Linings. I know from experience. It will NOT hold up as well as one would think....most specifically adhesion [even with properly prepped surface]. I am also a huge fan of 3M products. If you are concerned about quality from a rattle can, go to an autobody supply place and get 3M Schutz [undercoating]. It will need the special gun, it sprays out of a can/bottle, and you dispose of the gun [unless you clean it IMMEDIATELY]. If you don't have a compressor, perhaps a neighbor has one that they will loan you, OR you could rent a small one. If you want it done RIGHT, that is my recommendation. Not the easiest, not the cheapest, but it will last. FWIW

Putting flares on WITHOUT cutting fenders accomplishes nothing ! You will still have clearance issues [i.e. if they hit before installing the flares, they will still hit after]. The ONLY way to 'gain' by using flares is to cut the openings [as designed].

Your glass is CURVED, I believe that those are intended for STRAIGHT glass only [like street rods]....

The latch mechanisms and regulators are different; but, I think that you already know that ...? I would LOVE to see how you are adapting the Camry mechanisms. I tried in vain; but, couldn't get a consitent 'motion', and the window had to be 'tweaked' to seat every up & down cycle. Would love photo documentaion of your efforts. If I can help in any way, just PM me; but, since I wasn't 100% successful, perhaps I'm not 'The Source'. But, we can bounce ideas of one another...

Thanks for hunting down the 'HybridZ version'. I knew someone had done something similar. I like the way that the quarters taper back into the original sheet metal at the front & rears of the quarter of the Challenger, personally. It's not so in-your-face; but, both examples are commendable.

I wish that I had considered a method like the attached link to create a STEEL widebody look for my build. This guy is doing some pretty 'advanced' modifications....in his DRIVEWAY, and with pretty 'basic' tools. The actual method doesn't look that difficult, and I wish that I had thought of it... Perhaps others on hybrid have already done similar; but, I just saw this thread relative to SEMA, and wanted to share it.... http://badcopnodonuts.com/2008/09/28/more-2009-dodge-challenger-widebody-project/

Saw this on eBay, and thought of the many folks on here who have started with cars riddled with Cancer. While many of you might enjoy the process of cutting and welding patch panels, for those that either don't have the skills or funds, this might be a viable option. Camarillo, CA is a pretty good area for very low-rust cars [assuming that many of the cars listed are 'local']. Either way, this might be a good option for some.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___240Z-71-Crushing-30-Early-Zs-Get-yours-NOW_W0QQitemZ220300307007QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item220300307007&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318#ht_1561wt_0 FWIW

It would have been terrific had an 'insider' Group Buy been set up for these.....

Stainless Steel Turnbuckles like those can be purchased at any home improvement store....Lowe's, Hoem Cheapo, Ace, Orchard Supply...

Here's pics that I posted some time back; but, they disappeared...? http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn83/240Z2NV/Other/?action=view&current=SpoilerBrace1.jpg http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn83/240Z2NV/Other/?action=view&current=Spoiler1Seal.jpg

It is people like Dave, Tim240Z, Owen, John Coffey, Grumpyvette, MikeKelly, Jon Mortenson, Terry, Mike, Ernie and many more whom I have failed to mention that have made this site, and this community what it is [no disrespect to those omitted, I'm just in a dehydration fog right now]. The sharing of knowledge, the willingness to stop and take a moment to help, and share in the accomplishments of one another. I've never felt like this was a competition, I love it when someone comes up with a really great idea, or product, or service. Dave is 'THE Man' if you need to get electronic components, improved harnesses, LED light conversions, etc. and to make it so much better he has an incredible amount of experience with OUR CARS....plus, he's not out to get "Medieval on your arse" [see 'Pulp Fiction'] by marking up items for ridiculous profit in hard economic times. You contact some site on the web and that person doesn't know a 240Z from an S10. Anyway, I got so excited that Dave took the time to consider my query and do his best to solve my predicament...in the spirit of community, not expecting anything out of it.... I'm very, very grateful to people like him and so many others here...