WickedWild

I personaly think it's the 20w50 thats makeing it thick. Synthetic or not the watter and oil will separate. Is this a used engine (you did not build it)?

Sorry for the late reply I was out of state for the weekend. Boodlefoof: Thank you for the numbers they are encouraging. With those numbers I wont have to spray as much as I thought. Grumpy: I found an advertisement from Powerhouse in Bakersfeild CA that advertises a 383 all forged kit for $928 *edit* Their advertised forged 383 kit is steel crank, I-beam rods, molly rings, gaskets, H series cleveite bearings, press fit pistons. For $989 To upgrade to RPM H-rods and Probe floating pistons it takes the total to $1209 I’m waiting for Phill to call me back from Flatlander racing to price me a kit. *EDIT* Phil called $1500 crank/rods/pistons only. LS1 240Z: I’m planning on running a carburetor on this setup.

Grumpy: I would be verry interested to see that combo on the dd-2000 dyno. LS1 240Z: I would love to use an LS1, but I have my block and heads, and the car is completely set up for a first gen there is a subtancial $$ differance for me to change at this point.

In Indiana you can use your unemployment for job training. You could fish through that and see if anything sparks your interest. South Bend is not the only town slowing down right now. If you do enjoy the computer repair, try starting your own buisness. Your overhead is real low, and if a roof is provided already you have noithing to loose but your time.

Grumpy I’m glad to see you post to my thread. I’ve read through a lot of your posts and have tremendous respect for your insight. I have a hard time learning from a monitor I’ve read many books and countless numbers of your links, but it all has a hard time sticking until I physically put my hands on it. I assembled my 305 and that after years of reading finally made sense. That and I spend too much time second guessing myself. I understand that an engine is an air pump, the more air you move the more power you make. And a bigger pump will move more air. Reasons I’m shying away from a 383/396 is a short power band and the steep torque band. I’m afraid that without dedicating the car to straight line racing I’ll have traction problems and take away the spirit of a light toss able car. When I rebuilt the 305 I built more towards torque and less peak hp and I hated the engine. The car was faster, made plenty of more power but I didn’t like the way it ran out of breath so fast. RPM’s ruin people’s motors, but they are addicting and I really don’t expect to get a lot of miles out of an engine wound so tight. The heads are Chevy cast iron 2.02/1.60 that has been reworked I picked them up for $250 complete and they let me focus the majority of my funds into the block and rotating assembly. Next spring when I add nitrous funds permitting I’ll upgrade, if not then they won’t be forgotten. My main concern is a solid short block that will handle latter upgrades. Of course I could be completely wrong with my assumptions of a 383/396 after reading all of this again. Am I wrong in assuming that a 383/396 is only good for stump pulling torque?

Last night I sold my 305 complete, carb to pan (I kept the valve covers). I’ve also procured a 350 block (’89 pickup) and a set of 2.02 heads (3 angle port/polish all fresh). And my plans so far are… .030 over (355) forged flat tops floating H beam rods Forged crank Splice to 4 bolt main Demon 750 carb I’m planning on building the engine in two stages. First stage will be hydraulic lifters and a summer on the engine to break it in. Stage two will be upgrading to rollers and adding a progressive 200 shot of giggle juice. I’m running a T5 and 3.70 gears in the rear. I know the t5 wont last long after the I start spraying but I already have a spare and should have a WC in there before I brake the second one. I want to build towards the upper RPM band sacrificing low-end torque. The cars main purpose is spirited driving with occasional trips to the ¼. Couple questions: #1 Would it be smart to run one cam for this summer and a second specialized more for the spray? #2 Am I going to have to change cams anyway when I go from Hydraulic to roller? #3 Intake recommendations? #4 Distributor recommendations? #5 What am I missing here? Any suggestion and or comments appreciated

sr20 1st gen MR2 Drool...

If your looking at the GM cars avoid the 3.4 and 3.1 engines for they are prown to blow intake gaskets $500-$900 job. The 3.8L is bullet proof though.

Coming Soon Fast and Furious 4 Sumit Peak Rally

Toyota Corolla/Geo Prizm I'm @ 182K on the odometer. Honda's are pulling too much $$ in resale for what they are worth.

Good read Grumpy

Awesome idea, I wonder how hard it is on the pistons. Going from hot/cold that fast, that often. Also in the article he talks about using distilled water and that is not too cheep right now either. 94-octane gas is still cheaper than Eva water. (joke)

I love them, I have one JB Welded to my drain plug, two in my oil filter, and two under each valve cover. That way I can clean them all.

What is your budget for engine? LT1 prices are getting pretty low.

http://metacool.typepad.com/metacool/2006/02/unabashed_gearh.html Something to get your blood pressure up.

I've never ran the Z all the way out but I did run my bike up to 168mph, once.

Insted of adding the Lucas to it (not a big fan). Next oil change put Quaker State 4X4 Synthetic Blend 5w30 in it and the liffter noise will go away. I have used this for many Vortech and Triton V8's with success. Motor labor guide puts the intake gasket @... 1.7hr for upper 3.1hr for lower w/ac add .8 hr So your looking at 5.6 hours of labor book time.

Grumpy Awsome Idea

My current daily driver is a '94 Corolla with 180k on it and all of those miles have been hard driven. My fiancé drives the ’02 Spec-V (her previous car a Dodge Avenger) 45k on it and the only problem has been keeping tires on it and the brakes are now warped. This was her first “sports car†and her first manual transmission. She has driven the piss out of it (hence the tires and brakes) and I have had no problems with it. The car is a blast to drive and it holds me over when I can’t drive the Z. She went into this car 4g upside down and we now owe trade in value (not retail) on it with a 6 year note. She will be driving this car till it is paid off, then it’s my new dd. I had a lot of the same concerns you did when finding a car for her, but I really wanted her to have a car that she would enjoy driving (me too). It has filled all the bills perfectly and she appreciates my love for cars a little more now that she has a car that’s fun to drive. And trust me going from a Prism to a Spec-V is a fun step.

I posted this on another BB and a friend admitted to being to bored and found the loop.

I've done some auto part selling on Ebay. Besides the power train the hotter items are interior and side molding. When I parted out the Supra I searched through a couple BB's and found what item were in high demand (S30 Dash for example here). It helps that the parts you go after have a following. No one fixes up a '92 Grand AM for example. If they offer $100 engines sign me up for an LS1 w/t56. Look for older imports and domestic "sports" cars with good interiors and pick through and always include in your description that they are still parts available from this vehicle with a separate email account to keep things easy (I always recommend running a just Ebay email account to keep things in order). If someone is looking for something special from a car you can go back and see if it's available. A lot of ppl do not have the advantages of going to a pick and pull or are just too lazy or intimidated. And I have found that when ppl email you looking for a part they will normally offer more than you would consider listing it for. Oh and I highly recommend running a packaging and handling fee. I always charge $5 for S&H by the time you pay Ebay & Paypal your shipping company screws your for $1 difference from quote to actual price YOU CAN LOOSE MONEY.

Per http://www.autozone.com TRANSMISSION (CAPACITY) For your 1978 NISSAN/DATSUN 280Z: TRANSMISSION (CAPACITY) 1 5/9 QUARTS

It "could" be a decent parts car. I see the bumpers look somewhat decent. You probobly could pull a couple hundered $$$ off it in parts. But I would not use it as a project car.

If storage is an issue for any HybridZ member, I will store their car @ n/c. Sorry I'm soo far from you bastaad525.