WickedWild

I accually have to pull the engine to get the tranny out. The bolts hit the firewall before they come all the way out of the threads of the block. I have to walk the engine forward to get them all the way out. I don't see the harm in setting it in to mock up the exhaust and other things. But where your tranny sits will affect where you engine sits also.

Congratulations I would love to see it sometime. BTW witch Salem do you live in, Indiana has four Salem’s. I’m from Silver Lake Indiana (north).

From what I read he did not have theft covorage for it. Worth more now than what he bought it for.

This is from a couple weeks back http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106935 Might have a couple suggestions in it.

HybridZ: Makeing what should have been a reality. I love hearing "Wow, It looks like it belongs in there."

I've been through that before. I had a slab start sinking and it was pulling the building down with it.

Nothing simply bolts on to this car anymore. Just about every part had to be modified to fit. After watching my bother and his Honda frends work for a bit and get fustrated becase something didn't fit just right. I handed them and angle grinder. Their eyes got real big and all they wanted to do was send it back because it didn't fit.

I HAD a mold problem. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104131&highlight=mold

Thanks guys, I'll keep the TBI setup for a different project.

Thank you Grumpy for your reply. The more reading I do on the TBI the less I like it, I’d hate to spend all this time and money only to loose the engines ability to breathe. My main concern with the carburetor is the hesitation I get in the apex of a hard turn (I think from the floats sloshing). If this truck engine dose have a roller set-up I will be redoing the truck head and selling my 305 as a long block instead of a short block. Rear end ratio 373 Tires 225 45 17 Desired compression ratio 10.5 to 1 or 11 to 1 No stall manual transmission (T-5)

I pulled the 305 out of the Z this fall and sent it to a friend out of town to be worked on in at his shop. The 305 had a wobble from the crank and trashed the crank and bearings. $100 and that’s fixed. Now here is the dilemma, I have had a running ’89 200k 350 tbi truck engine fall into my lap for next to nothing. I can pull anything off of the truck that I want. I’m planning on running the heads off of my 305 (originally off a 350) because I just redid those last spring. Bore the block .30 over and put an oversize piston in it. I’m aiming for a high compression that I can run on 93 octane. I’ve yet to decide on my cam but I won’t be taking the engine over 6k due to it being a non-roller. The car is not my daily and will see a decent amount of time in the ¼. My 305 is an ’85 and the 350 is a ’89 so I should not have any problems with bell housing. And I’m already planning on replacing the clutch. My debate is on if I should pull the wiring harness and ecm with the engine and go fuel injection or if I should keep my 305’s intake and carb. To be honest I’m a bit intimidated by the fuel injection, but I would love to get away from the carb. Dose anyone see any problems with my plan’s on going to a 355? Any recommendations on cam choice with either TBI or carberated? Thanks ahead for any advise

My vote is on the valves not opening or closeing all the way. Run it with the valve covers off with load on the engine.

Mat if you do take over this I would be interested in a set of patches (one of each)

I sell a decent amount of stuff on Ebay and I ALWAYS charge $5 in handling + shipping. If I sell an item for $5, by the time I pay Ebay, Paypal takes there cut, I bye a box and packaging materials, get screwed by ups because they quoted me $16.50 in shipping on Monday and on Tuesday it costs $17.75 to ship, I've lost $1. So the $5 covers my costs. But $30 is rediculess.

Liberty never got the 4.0, only the 3.7

I have been building my car in phases due to limited funds and wanting to drive the car in the summer. Each phase compliments the next and I will only be doing a couple things twice. I have found that when projects go undriven for too long you forget why you’re doing it and loose motivation. When it’s all said and done I’ll probably have spent $500-$1000 more than if I would have just done it from start to finish, but I have been able to capitalize on great deals that I would not have been able to. I try to stockpile parts throughout the summer, and save my winter funds for materials and unforeseen exspences.

Throughout the winter I’m going to be working on the body of the Z. They question I have is there something I can use to protect the bare metal I expose between now and when it goes in for paint. I’m welding the rivet holes shut, shaving the door handles, side markers, drip rails, fuel filler door, and hopefully sub-frame connectors. It will be 4-6 months before it is primered and painted and from previous experience I know it only takes a couple weeks for surface rust to form on the bare metal. I was thinking of WD-40 or a metal prep that can be wiped clean before primer. Suggestions?

I'm close to that area (317) Indianapolis if there is anything I can do to help, let me know.

I don't think the skin on your hands would ever forgive you.

What are you going to do if the new owner put flares on it?

My car is refered to by everyone as Doty. Half Datsun, half Chevy.

When the (199?) Dodge RT (5.9) trucks first came out I was interested in one. Went to the dealership and this old guy comes out and starts telling me about the truck. I ask if I can get one with a stick, he tells me strait to my face that they don't make a manual tranny that can handle that much power. I looked him strait in the eyes and and laphed in his face and left. All I could think to myself is Dodge can't make an auto tranny that can handle any kind of hp.

Whatever you do, DO NOT put a Fram oil filter on your car. They are crap, their is no oil bypass in them. If you filter sits at an angle it will drain out and you will have a dry start every morning. Go ge yourself a Napa Gold oil filter or a Puralator (sp) oil filter.

I'm haveing the Dasun word removed and a 280 ghosted behind it. The pistons will be in a "X" where you can see the line running accross. The other piston will have an open ended wrench. *edit* thanks