heavy85

Those are peak numbers (1.38 and 1.62 from last races), steady state is about 0.15 g's lower but from a strut perspective it will see the peaks. All based on Aim Solo datalogger and yes reasonable downforce.

I added caster by adding shims between the end of the step in the TC rod and the theads to add 1-2 deg of caster. 2 was too much and kept spinning in slow, heavy braking turns so back to one. There is enough slop in the factory TC mount to the control arm there is no bind. The inner control arm has a spherical too. The TC bushing is Gman nylon cone style with factory rubber on the back side. One of next mods is to change the mount out for likely one of those ball cup style (repurposed tie rods). Cameron

Im at about 2730 lb all in with me but Im guessing the killer is 1.4 g on 200TW street tires and 1.6 g on race tires. Depending on which series I race on both. Now if you could just replace that strut bushing it wouldnt be a problem but a rebuild is about same cost as a new strut.

Cary - I want details on #5. Please do share how you are getting there on a Z and dont skip on pics. To the point I can fab and am will to cut things aparts if it means I can lower laptimes.

Yeah gland nut is comprssing the strut to hold in place. 425/375 springs. Since all the tracks around here are clockwise the front left seems to go first. I'll check that other site Jon. How do you make the 36 mm Bilsteins work?

On second set now and significant play develops on the front struts. Talked to Koni (Lee) who said that if that happened you would see fluid leaking past seals. They are not leaking and still dampen well but you can rock the tire back and forth and feel and see the play. I've use dial indicators to pin it down to the struts themselves. What other options for stronger struts are there with performance as good as the koni? These are the SA RACE version. Cameron

Still working on it. Two boys and I flew out to watch the race in June. Incredible event. May delay a year or two past 2016 but still definitely on the bucket list for the not too far future. Been mostly doing maintenance like replaced clutch and hydraulics, etc and continue to play with aero. Last weekend trekked 1580 mile to Pa and back for the Duryea hillclimb. That is an intense hill ... 132 mph at the finish. Still some seconds left in the car but still good for 8th out of 110 cars. It will take full commitment and no margin for error to get there though. If I dont do the PP next year likely to go back.

Do you know where the ball joints on the chassis side came from? I'm guessing they are steering tie rods off something?

Thats awesome find Jon. Definitely worth that upgrade as Im tired of setting front bearing and still always having a little play. Now if there was an easier rear wheel bearing setup. BTW the Z front wheel bearings are the same size as the ones on my E150.

This. Many moons back I ran 225/250 (or other way around dont remember), st front and rear bar, well used Tokicos, and used FA slicks and with a better driver easily could take FTD locally. Was really easy to drive and if smooth was quite fast. Once graduated to track duty eventually removed rear bar, added aero, upped springrate, etc

That Im guessing is your problem. I ran the stock 240Z radiator for several years and only had cooling issues at slow speeds where the fan couldnt keep up but always rock steady at the stat setting on the highway. Hell I ran a year without a fan at all after the Spal blew up. Controlling airflow is critical. For example adding the front splitter hurt temps but sure helped lap times.

Yellow knob is the dual master brake bias adjuster. My fire instructions said to put the nozzles in the corner of the windows. I thought that would be not good at all if you wanted to see and breathe so put them towards the legs/feet as well and the over the shoulder one.

Just put it back on the ground for the first time in almost 6 months - off season in the North sucks. Lots of little tedious details that consume time getting it back together. Fitting the dash which involved much more than it seems like it should, moved the seat then nothing around it worked, moved from 5 to 6 point harness so had to add new mounts, etc. Added crank scraper and baffled pan insert and took the accusump off the pressure switch to always on. We'll see how this works out for oil control. Otherwise just some maintenance like tightening a rear wheel bearing. A Test and Tune day at the local autocross site next week the shake it our before the first race (NASA TT) at the end of the month. Been spending more time training (that's what I tell my wife) for next year. Bought G27 set-up and R-Factor2 to practice the course in a sim. With 11 miles, 153 turns, and ~11 minute lap times that sucks up time fast. Between the sim and watching literally dozens of hours of youtube in-car videos I've now memorized the course and am working on fine tuning the details. Just bought tickets to take my sons to watch this years race. Really looking forward to seeing it in person.

I only ran one set of Avons but you are in the ballpark <1.5 front / < 1 rear - I kept taking out camber on bias slicks. That didnt work well at all with radial slicks. Would have to dig way deep to find pressure I ran. One thing is they were great last race of the year then after sitting over the winter were rocks the first race out ... like slower than old street tires. I couldnt make that much caster work (at least on 200 tw tires) as had an uncontollable oversteer in really tight slow corners.

No use for the vette reg/filter as there is already a regulator in the tank. F-body comes out throught the filter then tees off back to the tank (regulator) and forward to the fuel rail. I bought aluminum tube but thought it was too flimsy so used steel braided teflon hose (not rubber but teflon). Since I had a complete parts car I used much of it. The Camaro used aluminum hard lines. Rebekah - been off here for a while, will update Pikes Peak thread

Mine is "backwards". Fits nicely and makes a natural diffuser shape. Hooks up to the filler (I cut up and modified f-body fill next in stock location). Used the f-body straps and wiring harness. Works great. Its hooked up to the stock fuel gauge which means it works backwards and empty is somewhere between the "F" and the "U" on the gauge. Dont care as its a racecar so only need to know when to add (at the bottom of the "F"). Im not exactly sure where but it still has a couple/few gallons when it starves but thats only in long turns and I'm pull 1.4 lateral g's so for vast majority would be able to run much lower without starve.

'02 Z28 shift boot. Came from the drivetrain donor.

and a wider view of the front

Fire system install. Bottle and you can see one nozzle to the right of my shoulder. Can also see the cage is painted. Two more nozzles on me Three in the engine bay And now the rocker to frame fail / foot protection box (still needs finished but is welded in)

Wierd the picture does make it look kinda sketchy but it is not. Welding 18 gauge to 0.095 is a challenge. Ended up turning up the heat then lots of little short welds just for the gussets. Having done this before then cutting it up later I have no concerns.

It was easy to melt out with small propane torch and wire brush. Found two potential root causes. The crack to the left is because of poor panel fit-up - there was from factory ~1/8" gap between the two panels. The crack to the right seemed to be tied to the rust hole. That rust hole was completely hidden by lead so on the surface there was no visible rust. Welded up Kitty hair filler Now just need to sand/bondo/paint then get back to preciously scheduled programming. The left side crack is very small in comparison so I think Ill just leave it alone.

I've had crack in each lower corner of the windshield for years but it 'seemed' to just be the lead and small so never really worried about it. Have windshield out from building the cage and noticed now two cracks in each corner and the newer ones seem to be growing fast. So decided to excavate and found this. Suck. The lead is really deep there which surprised me but now how does one safely and completely remove the lead so the cracks can be weld repaired? Cameron

Sounds mean! Congrats Jon. Looking forward to read about you sorting it out. Cameron

My version http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120598-pikes-peaks-2016/

Point taken on drysump but not yet in the cards for me. http://www.improvedracing.com/images/testdata/Stock_vs_EGM-204.png That graph is what has me thinking that without EPC might be better. When the pump loses prime its happens pretty quick and from a high RPM (and therefore oil pressure). If you wait for the EPC switch to trigger it may not be quick enough to keep oil pressure from undershooting too low. By having constant seconday supply oil pressure shouldnt drop so fast. Bjhines - you have data you can share which shows otherwise?