heavy85

I have long block L24 and disassembled L28T short block parts located in central Illinois.

I only made it to 150 .....

Its a typo .... meant 3.54.

The new front end for whatever reason makes the engine run much cooler. Its what you see plus the splitter was extended back maybe 8" to right up against the crossmember. Has always been sealed and ducted to the front but now pretty much run at the stat setting instead of the low 200's before. Ran Gateway in St Louis which was more fun than i expected then UTCC and NASA TT at VIR last weekend. VIR was even more challenging than I epexpected and only ended up with a 2:04.5 lap time well off the target 2 flat. The UTCC was really not much of an event with only 35 cars and didnt feel any different than a TT. After the UTCC I found the right rear gland nut to be completely loose alowing the strut to slide up and down in the spindle. Then Saturday the spindle itself snapped and caused wicked loose condition but got luckly and made it onto the trailer with no other damage. The new 3.54 / tuned OS Giken worked really well. Now need to replace upright and figure out rest of season.

It was really loose. Still drivable but could feel something wasn't right. Then under yellow noticed it felt like dirt car where the rear haunched up under power and the steering wheel was about 10 degees off center going straight. Got real lucky because made a couple laps in anger like that.

Wrong side. Those holes are in the back, the front side cracked where there are no holes.

Yep I was there for UTCC then the TT races over the weekend. Yeah weather ended up good with only rain Friday night. VIR kicked my ass though.

Anyone have a replacement I can buy?

Happened yesterday at VIR on my 240Z. 44 year old casting with who knows how many miles, 10 years of racing plus the VIR curbs and one cracked through. Luckily I noticed before it totally came apart. Havent taken apart yet to get a good picture. So anyone seen this and reinforced to prevent? Its one of my biggest fears racing the Z is something breaking like this with modern sticky tires. Also APB out for replacement beefier later 260/280 uprights if you know of or have some available please let me know. Hopefully near central Illinois but will ship if have to. I want to replace them all front and rear and am currently out of commission for in the meat of the race season. Cameron

Cracked a rear suspension upright at VIR yesterday so need new uprights. Going to replace all 4 since these have apparently too much abuse. Prefer complete with stub axles (rear) and hubs (front) but will consider just the uprights. In central Illinois if anyone is local but since Im out commission will pay shipping. Thanks Cameron

Should be offset to the right, not centered. Lines up with the diff and helps weight distribution with the.driver on the left.

What diameter tires? What rev limit? 3.7 works well with 25" and 6700 rpm but not so much with smaller diameter. At least for most all the road courses I've raced. You'll never use first and likely not second either on a road course. Im currently switching to 3.54 to better match 23" race tires. For fun runs it really doesnt matter though. Cameron

No maybe .012 .....its really thin aluminum. Whole thing total is a little over 1/8"

I used Dibond - solid polyethylene sandwhiched by two thin aluminum sheets. Has lived well for many years.

What struts are you using as it apears you may have welded on an custom strut tube?

Looking into this option. Messaged him and sounds like he uses the Bilstein University Motorsport strut that's basically a bare tube you weld to the spindle. What would be the practical benefit of this option rather than just getting another Koni?

Still kickin. PPIHC is definitely going to have to wait a year or two but still making the best of 2016. Transmission is strapped to pallet ready to ship for a rebuild. T/C rod conversion to rod end is complete. Diffuser is mostly complete. Front end aero redo is almost complete. Singed up for Ultimate Track Car Challenge at VIR in May.

What rear spoiler is that?

Been there done that. Just get whatever aluminum the local hardware store has, drill holes, cut to length and stack as needed.

I bent/cracked the flange going off-track sideways at ~80 mph. Went two more laps and later found cracked flange. In my case the symptom was squeak from the brake.

Rules are buried in there. Yeah no drag radials https://www.usmileracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/2015-US-Mile-RRTS-Edition-061015.pdf

Thats only a 5 hour drive. I would definitely like to do that. Only reason Im not doing the Ohio Mile event is because of the LSR specific safety rules that are required at our speeds. If its like the Texas Mile event those LSR rules dont apply. This would make a great aero test! Any details or link or anything you can share? Edit - nevermind I found the link. https://www.usmileracing.com

What do LSR people do for suspension? Whatever they do thats what I would do. Have you measured bump steer - if not losing 3" of ride height may cause significant toe changes from what you set at static ride height.

Good luck with that. Im out of Illinois but ran Duryea last year and had a ball. Tentatively planning Weatherly next year so may see you around. Back in the day when still has a 6 with Mikunis, I added a simple piece of flat thin aluminum plate under the carbs and it helped immensely with heat from the header. Wonder if heat soak may be part of your issues. Cameron

Having now seen a couple LS Miata in person, the Z body/miata suspension has the huge advantage of weight distribution. Something that is paramount in a high hp car. I'll take all the rear weight I can get and in fact are in process of moving the Z front wheels forward as much as reasonably possible without major surgery (about an inch) which should get another 0.5% on the rear. Z you can barely get to 50/50 but just look the the relative windshield/firewall location and its clear the engine sits much further forward in the Miata. Besides the obvious who wouldnt prefer the hips of a Z?