heavy85

1 5/8" thanks for doing this, look forward to results

You are right Jon, I should have been more precise. I could play with taking out or adding more dive. Agree there isnt enough adjustment to get anti-dive but Im also not sure you want it either. There is 13/16" of adjustability and have no idea if thats material to handling or not as I've never played with it before.

Well this is what I came up with. Its overbuilt but I accept that. Can move the shims around to adjust things. It will fit either horizontally so I can shim it inboard to bring back closer in line with the LCA pivot, or can be mounted vertical so I can play with anti-dive. Its got some pro-dive if centered and from some reading doesnt sounds like really want anti-dive with struts as it tends to bind them up. Not sure how to set it yet but at least its bolt in and adjustable so can always easily change the settings. Cameron

When mine started howling, it progressively got worse over the year (several years ago). Got so bad had to wear earplugs on long distant drives to the track. Ended up being input pinion bearings. Easy enough to change those bearings.

8 years of racing LS and couldnt be happier with it.

On the Sanderson headers I dont use any gasket and they dont leak.

Attached to something heavy like jack stand - dial indicators have magnetic base. Measure height with ruler. Get static ride height from LCA angle then jack up and down with spring removed.

I just use two dial indicators on the brake rotors.

No desire for a vette. Its fun to be fast in a traditionally not that fast car. Its also fun to keep progressing and lowering lap times - something that I havent done in two years and why Im searching for a step change. Also fun to push others. Two best comments I ever received was a guy in an tube frame, lighter, higher power car come up and thank me for pushing him to go faster than he ever would have otherwise (we were in same class) and a guy in a high downforce formula car at a hillclimb say he put me on his dartboard as the target . You wont get those by getting good lap times in a vette.

Already use 25" tires so that's not and issue for me. Yes lots of tire options in 18". However, more I look at it and to do it most efficiently one would want to cut out most of fhe front end. Moving the load path from the strut tower down lower to basically part way up the side of thd strut tower would need a lot of reinforcement. Not sure Im ready yet to lop off the front end and completely rebuild it.

Not sure I have it in me to go through the effort but other than the upper coilover mount doesnt look too hard. FYI Z front suspension is 46 lb (big brakes) and the C5 is 52 lb with a shock but without a coilover. Think the strut is a limiting performance factor - lap times - and I need to replace (again ... worn out two sets now) Konis and other maintenance so it's tempting. So would it be worth it over a well set-up Z strut? It wouldnt be cheap but biggest fear is new learning curve setting it up.

That would be great Cary. Im to the point that rules are typically unlimited for suspension so will move things around to get the best performance. Look forward to your results.

Stock LS1 (at the time). Ran the factory 240Z rad for a couple years. Worked fine on interstate right at thermostat setting. On track (road course) would get hot after a couple laps so had to manage temps. Went to Champion ebay deal and temps were much better on track. Then added splitter and temps went up. Managing airflow is as or more important than the core itself. Hood vents, ducting, etc. Round 3 went with an off the shelf Ron Davis Racing dual pass and it works awesome. PS: I used to manage on track temps to try not to exceed 230 deg as measured in the passenger head port. Now dont ever see over maybe 210 on track.

Thats a problem. Car is currently dissasembled on jackstands for the winter work. The lca pivot is about 1/4 higher than stock and points down ~3 deg. R comps are ~23" diameter and 200 'street' tires (race on both for different events) are 25" diameter although Im contemplating buying another set of 17" wheels and going up to the ~25" R comps.

Why?

Edit: sorry to hear about your wife. Hope recovery goes well! The LCA point front the center down towards the tire by ~3 deg if that helps with ride height? Will have to take the strut off to measure but the strut top us currently about 1/2" rear and 1/2 inboard of stock location. Also have 3/4" spacers between struts and steering arm.

Cary I'll bite. Measurements are close but may be off 1/16" here or there. - Stock arms 11.5" from pivot to ball joint - Ball joints 3/8" forward of the lca pivot - TC pivot 7/16" outboard of lca pivot - TC pivot 5/16" lower than lca pivot - 14 3/16" between TC pivot and lca pivot - 240 struts sectioned 2" - If I just add a bolt in rod end the TC rod would shorten about 1 1/4" I'm thinking as already mentioned to put the lca and TC mount in line. It's got a bit of pro dive in now but don't really have a clue where to go vertically. Can put it just about anywhere that would get the best performance. I'm also thinking of pushing the upper strut mount forward 1" and lengthen the TC rod accordingly to lengthen the wheelbase - should move 0.5% weight towards the rear and I want as much as possible.

Quickly realizing its going to be a PITA to locate accurately relative to the LCA mount.

Finally converting the TC rod to rod ends. Have run the Gman aluminum cup / nylon ball w/rubber bushing on the back side set-up for a long time. Something that becomes immediately noticed is that by adding a bracket to hold the rod end on the frame side you effectively shorten the TC rod. Since rules are open, Im free to remocate the mount location. Has anyone mapped the suspension and determined a) the impact of a shorter TC rod and b.) if you could move the frame mount where is a good target location?

So basically it works like a solid axle gokart - use front geometry to lift the inside rear tire so it will actually turn.

Thanks. Class record is 117.1, my previous best was 117.3 weekend only got down to 117.5. Was hoping to beat the class record. Kicker is previously I was on used R6 and upgraded to A6 specifically just to beat the class record but not to be. On subsequent runs kept slowing down and eventually found both rear tires showing cords so maybe the tires were gone. Only had about 20ish runs by then.

King of the Hill at the 'Chasing the Dragon' hill climb a few weeks back. Didnt get the laptime I was looking for but able to FTD for the weekend and get the sweetest trophy ever - a full size sword. Company cutbacks and according plummet of stock prices has PP in question for next year. We'll see over the next couple months. Regardless plans for update to fuel cell and rebuild the trans w/ faceplated gears over the winter. Last race of the year next weekend so will get torn down soon. https://youtu.be/aY9ksFVdifA

Also allows adjustment to make the legs of the bar shorter or longer depending which direction you orient the bracket.

I started with the ultra light rotors for track car to try to keep weight down. They lasted OK but one eventually cracked. Luckily on the cool down lap of last session on Sunday. I replaced with the heavier version and immediately noticed more consistent stopping performance due to the extra heat capacity. Have not cracked one of those yet either and have run the same pair for the last several years.

Here is a pic from the last race. Its in photobucket so can scroll through if you want. Yes lateral. Braking is I think around 1g but dont have it in front of me now.