heavy85

Now go after the hinges as they weigh quite a bit and should be able to be made considerably lighter with the lighter door weight. Cameron

That's a nice way of accommodating the finned diff cover. I like it and makes me remember I still need to do mine. Maybe I'll steal this idea ... Cameron

Why not just make your own oval tubing? Split 2.5" tubing then weld it back together with flat sections in it. I dont run ovals but here's my pics posted a couple days ago. Cameron

Old thread but I am trying to install mine and have the same issue. What's the norm to fix this? Thanks Cameron

15x10 w/ slicks in race trim 15x8 w crap 225's in street trim - need to work on that. Cameron

I liked the 24 hr personally but maybe it's just habit ... Cameron

Thanks for the feedback. Internet searching shows a bunch of heated debate on MS to SS. Most end up with theoretical you shouldn't do it vs 'well I did it and it lasted 10 ... 20 ... years ... offroad ... etc. Guess I'll try and see what happens. Sure will make them easy to install just hope they dont rob power. Per request here's a couple more pics Cameron

You can see it poking out just in front of the tire. Basically dual 2.5 to x pipe behind tranny mount then roughly 90 degree to either side to straight through Magnaflows then a stubby 'tip' to take it somewhat out of the wheelwell. Sounds great and honestly is not too loud. It's on stands so if you want I can take a bottoms up picture. Cameron

Really? I would have thought you needed another shielding gas or something but I'm ignorant here. Cameron

Page 3 if anyone doesn't feel like looking. Is it an optical illusion or is the main hoop more than 180 degree? Also, where does the rear supports attach - the inner fender or the strut tower? Last question - what size & thickness tubing? Looks like a good option to the NHRA or Autopower prefab types that I assume meets SCCA/NASA specs. Cameron

Well I just got some Magnaflow spun cats for the LS1. Yeah it's primarily a racecar but I'm tired of smelling like exhaust every time I drive it. I have side exhaust so it's not a seal issue it just wraps around and in the window. Anyway, they arrived today and I'm amazed how light they are. Probably only a lb or two more than just the straight tube. So now I'm scratching my head how to install them. I've got dual 2.5" mild steel pipes but the cats are SS slip-on fit so the pipes will slip inside. Any ideas? Weld mild to SS? Some type of clamp?? Thanks Cameron

John - do you have any pics of the Kirk 4-point installed? How tight does it fit to the body and how's the head clearance? Saw the pic sitting on the ground on your website but couldn't find it installed. Thanks Cameron

1/8 NPT to -3AN to M10 at the factory connection. Now how long - looks like about 15" maybe and a 45 deg at the caliper may be better than 90 degree. Also can't seem to find anyone that sells DOT SS lines. Apparently I'm google deficient as I know they are out there. I've been running what I assume are not DOT rated lines but since I have to buy new might as well get legal as well. Thanks Cameron

Need to hook-up my Outlaw calipers. By looking the location of the caliper and hose connection is very similar to Arizona Z set-up. Does anyone know the specs of the front brake hoses for these set-ups? Looks like a straight on one end and a 90 at the caliper would do the trick but what length and thread sized on the ends? Going to have to mail order some and dont want to get it wrong. Thanks Cameron

Looks promising but I'ld ask for pics installed in a Z to see the fit. Did you see his e-bay store name? Broke Dick Racing Cameron

I was thinking the heavier duty rotors would be more heat tolerance and less likely to fade. Therefore I was looking at this from a performance perspective trying to trade off weight, cost, and fade - life being far down on the list. Since most of my use is autocross with the occasional high speed autocross (<15 laps total between three practices and 4-6 times runs) and possibly an open track or two at the most the lighter weight duty rotors may be the ticket. If the lighter duty rotors dont last as long but perform just as well then that makes it a little easier. I'm going to run Hawk HP+ since I still drive to the track so they are not true track pads. Also have been a bit gun shy because both Wilwood and Coleman rate their lighter duty rotor as dirt, rear axle, etc only. Anyway from everyone's input I'm now leaning toward 160-5845 & 160-5846 Ultra-Light ULHP- 32 from Wilwood or possibly similar 'custom' Coleman lightweight directional rotors. The Wilwoods are a bit cheaper and I have no idea the weight of the Colemans. Cameron

Bump - nobody??

I need to buy rotors to fit the front Outlaw calipers and JSK hats I just ordered. There's a large variety of options (12.19x1.25) from Wilwood, Coleman, probably others. Std, heavy duty, light duty, straight, curved, etc, etc. Anywhere from $48 to several hundred $. I'm not running cooling ducts since this is still street driven but it will spend time on track so they need to hold up without fade. Any recommendations where to start here? I'm thinking with 2300 lb weight the lighter duty curved rotors may be the way to go but looking for some others experience here to lean one. Thank Cameron

Title says it all. Thanks Cameron

Uh yeah I know how these work I still dont get your point. This is a race car (primarily anyway) so I want to tune the upper range ... which can be accomplished through piston sizes (MC or caliper) and / or bias valve if you are rear biased. Not too concerned at this point with slow performance and I'm not going to run a dual master set-up. I'm trying to develop my set-up based on a real world comparable system with test results and get the basics well balanced. So back to my question to Myron ... do you know if the bias bar is towards the front or rear? In other words without dual masters would I need a rear bias valve to get it nailed? Also,where did you end up with pads? Cameron

Net result is similar so what's you point?

If I read right your using 3/4 rear and 15/16 front. This means you reduced front to 64% of the rear (area = diameter^2). I'm thinking of using 1.38" caliper pistons instead of 1.75 which works out to be 62% less area and therefore force than the AZ set-up. So by my reasoning this should put me right in the range where you are running. Do you know if the bias bar is towards the front or rear? In other words without dual masters would I need a rear bias valve to get it nailed? Also,where did you end up with pads? Thanks Cameron

How do the Falkens hold up to track use? Cameron