heavy85

Ditto here. Did the same thing not passing up on the Potenza at half price closeout. Later read the specs and the 245s are only for up to 9" rim ... we'll see how they work. They look quite spread out in your pics. Wanted flat black but they only have them in the RB. After seeing pics of the comparison I thought the RBR was much better so compromised on the black w/ polished lip RBR. Should be here is a couple days. Buyers remorse already wishing I would have gone 9" all around ... at least I can put some real meat on the rear for the next set of tires just hope these keep up on track for now. Cameron

Look in my gallery for pics of my swap. Everything but the headers were fabbed by me. Cameron

That does look sharp. Looks like 47 lb (19 rim, 28 tire) 17x8.5 and 245s - compared to my 15x10 steel race wheels w/ 9.5" slick or my current street 15x8 225s that funny enough both weigh approx only 36 lb. So 44 lb weight gain just for tires and rims. With the 16x8 RBs w/ 225s your still looking at 16+26 or 42 lb a corner. So basically 20 lb penalty to go up to 17" and 245s. I'm guessing the extra tire width would be worth it though. Still pondering ... Cameron

Tried to order some 16x8 Rota RB's Friday and got a note back the Rota has no ETA and none are available now . I even paid and was refunded! Not much out there in 16x8 and the tire selection limits to around 225. With high power and good suspension it makes it harder and harder not to jump to the 17's. Just think the 16s look better and the weight is a killer. Guess I'll keep looking. Anyone run Diamonds on the street? I use them for my race tires and may just concede and get some more for the street tires. Cameron

John - I was doing some research and came across this from Tirerack http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/TireTestServlet?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Direzza+Sport+Z1+Star+Spec&tirePageLocQty= Seems the Hankook was way down the list. What behind your recommendation as I'm in the same boat looking for street tires to use on the colder track days / autox when the slicks suck and I can still drive to and from the track on them. Thanks Cameron

Where are you going to put them? Looks a bit stiff to form to the curve of the hood but looks interesting. Let us know how they fit as the price is definitely right. Cameron

After reading the 'show off your wheels' thread it seems everyone has the wat/panasport knock-offs. Makes me want to do something different. I like the Rota GT3's or the Track R. Those Potenzas are a screeming deal. Hard to pass up but I'm struggling 16 vs 17" as I've always liked the look of 16s better on a S30. They only list 16x7s so I wonder if they go up to 8, 9, or even 10" width? Cameron

I've also got a really nice one sitting in the shed if that falls through. Cameron

Those following the rotor thread will see my new Outlaw set-up wont clear my street wheels. I've got some old gold fake multipiece (the 'bolts' are plastic) generic wheels. I think 15x8 w/ old 225/60 Dunlap sports. There's nothing sporty about those tires and the overall set-up is VERY dated but I do have lots of tread left . Anyway I'm weighing my options to clear the new calipers. I was not planning on spending this kind of money on wheels/tires - well I wasn't planning on spending any quite frankly so this sucks but maybe an excuse to upgrade a bit ... or at least leave the 80's. I think 16" is perfect for a Z despite being a bit of an oddball size and most seem to only come in 7" width. Would like wider to fill out the ZG flares if possible but we'll see. I like the classic Watanabe or the CCWs but am not willing to spend that kind of $$. Looking at options for cheap wheels I found Konig Supermesh 16x7 for $449 Shipped for set of 4 and they look nice to me. So any other suggestions out there? This may also be an opportunity to just run the street tires when it's cold instead of the slicks. I recently got a set of Falken Ziex RE-912s for my DD based on recommendation from Grassroots Motorsports and I really, really like them. They handle great, very stable, excellent turn-in, w/high grip despite being an 'all season' tire. They are also cheap at $87 a piece for the 245/50R16 in W speed rating. So on the tire front any recommendations there as well? Wanting to come in under a grand total if possible. I have dedicated rims/slicks for racing so these will be the getting there on the street combo and the I dont feel like changing tires combo (so would like decent track/autocross wear) plus what I use the on the occasion I take it to the strip. Thanks Cameron

4000 w/ 1.38 pistons. AZ comes with 1.75 and are too much for the 240sx rears so I went with smaller pistons to help balance things out better. As soon as I can get some way to get some wheels to fit we'll see how this works out. One step forward, two steps back .... Cameron

Doh .... 15x10 Diamonds fit fine but the 15x8 street rims dont. Guess I wont make the first race this weekend. Dammit Dammit Sunnovabiatch. I need the left 240sx e-brake bracket that bolts to the caliper since the caliper did not come with one if anyone has one. Cameron

Ended up buying the lightweight Wilwoods due to the lighter weight but upgraded to the more expensive ULHP- 32 which are finish ground. I speculate this is why AZ gives the BS line that they have to be turned after installed because they use the cheaper rough machined version. They arrived today so we'll see how they last. I ordered from Summit but they were back-ordered and ended up delaying delivery date so I canceled and ordered from Revolution Brake. They were great to deal with and kept on top of getting Wilwood to ship them so I can make a race this weekend. Nobody ever answered the phone at Wilwood to order direct. I just checked and got notice from Summit that they shipped today despite canceling the order .... sigh. All this sweating weight just to find out the 240sx rears add 8 lb a piece over stock ... double sigh. I'm not real impressed with the 240sx set-up but haven't run them yet. Only reason I went here is for the e-brake function which I now dont even have the flocking bracket for - anyone have a drivers side e-brake bracket? Cameron

I'm still bitter .... Ran out of gas while skipping high school (in my first z many moons ago) on the same street step mom used to take step sister to school. Needless to say that didn't go so well. Cameron

Pictures pretty much say it all: PS - like my 'catch can'? Cameron

Little proud of their work eh Cameron

Guess it's normal then but sure doesn't make me feel better about it. Eventually it's got to eventually run out of black crap to dye the fluid .... then what. Guess I'll run it 'till she breaks - it wouldn't be the first time I had to drive a car home without a clutch. Cameron

The clutch fluid keeps turning black. There is a black residue all over the bottom of the master. It's a new Tilton master with a braided line to the stock slave. I run synthetic dot 3/4 brake fluid. I've changed it a couple times and within a day or two it's black again. Clutch works fine I'm just concerned that there is a seal thats degrading and will fail at the wrong time. Any ideas? Thanks Cameron

I've consistently had problems with oil coming out the diff breather. Just switched to a finned cover an noticed it has a different breather. The old one was black plastic with an arrow on it. It's just a cap snapped over a tube - no filter, mesh, or anything. The new one is metal and the cap is crimped on at the bottom. Real question is if these diffs all slobber oil out the breather and I should go ahead and run it to a catch can or does it just take the other style breather? Thanks Cameron

What cable is that as it's different than a 240z cable? Cameron

I used the John's adapter that goes into the block on the drivers side. There is a huge plug threaded in that you replace with a special adapter and Datsun sender. You could easily drill and tap the stock plug though. It runs in the first leg of the 'M' on the gauge - just over half way. On track it creeps up higher to the 'P'. Since I dont know where TEMP is in degrees I just added an Autometer gauge. Have not run the car yet but it's sender goes into the unused port on the passenger head. Internet search will easily find sender to LS adapter. I've read that the heads are not consistent due to flow path of the water so it will be interesting to see what the head temp tells me. I'm running JTR headers and they clear fine. Cameron