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I copied Tim's design exactly. I am using a Holley Blue fuel pump that is mounted to the side of the steel fuel cell box. I decided to do this to use a reliable fuel cell and nice big hoses - i think i was mostly influenced by cool factor. All those braided lines and AN fittings are pretty bitchin I guess hooking up a V8 to the stock fuel system seemed kind of sketchy with its small lines. It was nice to clean all the lines and vapor tanks out of the interior of the car, also. I mainly did it for cool factor and for peace of mind. One other major reason was for exhaust routing - i really wanted a true dual exhaust with an X pipe and the only way to get those mufflers on both sides of the car was to get rid of the stock fuel tank. I had some pictures on my website but Apple decided to start charging money for their .Mac services, the bastards.

I just want to thank you guys... this is a great site. Doing searches came up with the spring rates I was looking for... many of you recommended something along the lines of 225 front/250 rear so that's what I purchased. I was kind of scared because my car rode extremely badly on 150/175s with the L6 in it and i doubted that stiffening the springs would help anything. After throwing a couple of hundred dollars at some Eibach springs, simply on faith alone, I'm glad I did. The car feels great. It is extremly hard sprung but it soaks up bumps like never before! I'm totally amazed. Any of you going with a V8 swap and coilovers, 225/250 springs work awesome.

I have a Griffin aluminum radiator (same one as the rest of you with Griffins are running, I'm sure), a 180degree thermostat, and a one-speed fan from a Taurus, which moves air quite well. I sealed off the sides of the radiator with duct tape so the air will go through it instead of around the sides. Yesterday I drove my car around and often saw the temperatures getting up to 210 (each time they did I pulled the car over and shut it off to keep anything bad from happening...) I've been driving around with the hood off and wonder if putting it back on might help force air through the radiator. Even if it does I'm not sure the car will stay cool at stoplights. Basically I'm wondering what kinds of things I can do to help the car run cooler. The motor is totally fresh so the tolerances are tight and it is producing more friction than normal, but I still think it should run cooler. I set my timing at around 11 degrees with the vacuum advance pulled then plugged it back in. I don't think the timing is off enough to make the car run hot? It's just annoying that I finally finished my car and I can't enjoy it yet because my eyes go to the temperature gauge every 2 seconds.

I can understand the excitement you're feeling... I'm home from college for the weekend and I re-timed my ignition and fixed some clunking in the rear end... Basically the car is drivable! All the gauges work and the majority of the work is done. Now comes bug-fixing for the next five years or so. I have about 20 miles on my engine and the only problem is recurring heat scares. My fan isn't wired up very well and I've had to pull over quite often and shut off the engine when it's getting up past 210 degrees. When the fan stays on and I'm cruising it usually stays at 180, but sometimes the connections come undone (totally rigged up wiring) and the fan turns off. I think if I turn the ignition down a few degrees it might help the motor run a little cooler... but anyway the point of this reply is to say that the engine feels awesome... it is I'm sure not even close to what you've got but the power is insane. I've only taken it to 4,000 RPM and not even touched half throttle but when you open up the butterflies, my car makes the most amazing sounds. I was at the Coronado Historical Races today and so driving my car around gave me all these images of the amazing V8 powered race cars. let me tell you.. when I get this motor broken in, get the ignition and the double pumper working right, and keep everything running cool.. it'll be a force to be reckoned with. Finally my dream has come true after a year!! CONGRATS on spanking that Ferrari - what a prick! Why buy your speed off a showroom floor when you can build it for a tiny fraction as much and get SO much more respect. At least you showed him where his gall gets him - he knows he lost, fair and square. Your car sounds awesome!

Yeah.. those are for the AE86 crowd.

Ugh.

I bought mine in overall great shape (dirty through and through) but with a complete interior, original matching motor and transmission, and so on. It was owned by the family its whole life and was restored in 1985 by the brother of the woman I bought it from. I bought it for $1900 and would do it again if I had the chance. A friend bought his for $900 with a 5speed, a roll bar, and some other mods. Overall he got the better deal but a much crappier car as far as interior and body goes. The point is, they're out there for varying prices, just look. My Z was actually the first 240Z I ever looked at and I bought it. I think it's just chance that I snapped it up before anyone else did.

K... that was one of my concerns as there's no way fire should be getting up into the intake. What should I set my timing at? I'm running an HEI unit, stock besides a 55,000 volt coil (pretty sure everything else is stock) with the vacuum advance hooked up.

Hey guys... Yeah my car finally runs enough to drive. I drove it into the parking lot next to my house last night, made a loop, then pulled back into my garage. What you don't know, however, is how long it took and how many times I had to re-start the engine I really don't know anything about tuning a Holley. I am just now learning what all the different screws do. The only real problem seems to be that the car loves to backfire. When under load or revving up the engine a bit, once in a while it'll spit a healthy pop through the carburetor and immediately die, and once in a while I'll get a nice 3 foot flame out of the venturis Might this just be an ignition thing? For a while the car would barely run when it was on the idle circuit and I'd have to always be into the accellerator pumps to keep it running. Then I realized that you turn the idle mixture screws OUT to richen the mixture. Ohhh... That helped a bit (1 3/4 turns out from the seat), and I learned how to adjust the idle speed. I don't have it down idling past 1000 rpm but think I'll be able to with my dad's help. I'm just curious how to stop this backfiring because it'll seem like the engine's running fine until I start messing with stuff, then suddenly it spits loudly and comes to a dead stop

I'd buy a pair of the fronts to use on the rear 15" is nuts... on our cars.. or especially on an MGB!

You shouldn't have any problems on a Mac. Don't even start thinking that! You'll just give in to the PC users If the image actually is on the net, what is the address?

Gotcha. Thanks guys! The first slave was broken because I pushed in the pedal with the slave piston at the end of its travel and it had noplace else to go. Of course I didn't realize it for a long long time. Now that I know that I have so much adjustability in the pedal, I'll make sure it's releasing and not overcentering. Today should be my first drive if all goes well!

COMPLETE SUCCESS! I got on my back on the driver's seatand stuck my head under the dash (my favorite place to work... not) and discovered something... There's a rubber bumpstop that limit's the pedal's travel upwards. HMMM sez I, adjusting it back to the limit, then adjusting the pivot fork linkage back to take the slop out. I effectively raised the pedal up, giving me a good extra inch of pedal travel, gaining a lot of extra fluid movement in the MC. As soon as I had it tight I put my foot down to the floor... bingo. I could actually feel it disengage through the pedal, as it gets hard to push while you're pushing it down, then suddenly easy an inch o two from the floor. I spun the tailshaft again with the clutch in and zero rubbing on the disk (full disengagement). Adjusting the pedal, combined with replacing the broken slave, and bleeding everything perfectly, fixed my problem. I wish I had known that bumpstop was there before! I put everything back into the engine bay in 45 minutes and tomorrow I'll put the exhuast and driveshaft and everything back in the car - hopefully tomorrow will be my first drive around the block!!!! Why oh why do I leave for college on Tuesday

Partial success! I got the clutch to release! With the car in gear and the pedal all the way down, you can turn the tailshaft of the transmission and hear the disk dragging. Unfortunately, the complete lock-up point is only about an inch, maybe two, from the floor. Hopefully I'll be able to work with the pedal and the MC linkage to get a little more throw to guarantee complete release and get a comfortable takeup point.

$30-$35 isn't cheap? I hate to think about how you're going to budget the conversion itself...

I FIGURED IT OUT. My clutch slave was broken. I'm 99% positive that this is why I wasn't getting full travel. It's just out of chance that I pulled the boot off the slave and all the parts inside fell out. I was actually thinking of shimming the pushrod somehow and decided to take it apart. Check out the difference in the new slave, left, and the old slave, right. The picure was quick and not very good but you can see that it's cracked, and the crack goes a very long ways. The clip was definitely not held in there very securely. I can definitely see how this would keep the slave from functioning as it should. Hopefully once I put it together again everything will be good to go.

Very cool read... What does signing TDC before and after your name do?

1) No, usually not. Once in a while it'll slot into all the gears when I've moved the car around a bit but most of the time no. However, I can dry shift the tranny into gear right now, with it removed from the motor. Turning the shafts I can see that all the gears work. It's a newly rebuilt tranny and I think it should be OK. 2) With the engine running, I'll try to put it in first gear. It'll be just too hard to push in - it feels exactly like trying to put it in gear without putting in the clutch (not disengaging). When I try to put it in reverse (no syncros) it'll go ghhhhcckk gkkkkk gkkk and grind because the clutch isn't disengaging. 3) If I put in the clutch and slot it into first, and hold the clutch in, and turn over the motor, the car rolls forward as if the clutch isn't in at all. All signs seem to point to the clutch not disengaging.

I have the shop's guarantee that the throwout bearing is correct. The rod is set up so that there's no play before pushing in the clutch master cylinder The fork moves 1/2 to 3/4 inch and the throwout bearing needs to move 3/8 inch.. with my pedal ratio it should be disengaging. I'm positive now that everything inside the bellhousing is correct. The pivot ball is non-adjustable. Basically, everything's correct. I haven't had the clutch release at all, at any point in the pedal's travel.

Dan, thanks for the thoughts, no the clutch disk wasn't in backwards. That was one of the first things I thought. Two, no, there's no binding on the tranny shaft. It seems like something's just not right, an angle isn't right or something's not getting enough travel.

Here is the first post... http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002569 I went back to Southland today and brought all my parts. Bellhousing, fork, pivot ball, TO bearing, pressure plate, clutch disk. Kim, the guy who I've been working with, put the pressure plate on their $30,000 machine and tested it - I could see that it was definitely releasing and the machine had three seperate readouts for points around the pressure surface (all very similar). I think it recorded 2,213 lbs of pressure and the TO bearing movement required was 3/8". He checked the pressure plate and there's basically no runout so I know that's not bent or anything. He confirmed that the fork, pivot, and throwout bearing are correct and basically said that it comes down to my hydraulic system - what I didn't realy want to hear because I thought I had troubleshot my hydraulic system completely. My fork has a ratio of about 5.5 inches from where the slave pushes to the pivot, and 4.5 inches from the pivot to the throwout bearing. He said that with my 0.5" to 3/4" of slave throw that I should be releasing properly. I really don't know what's going on... I shouldn't have to go with a 1" clutch master, should I?

Still no response Mike.. hope you're not gone completely from the net, buddy..

I've seen small blocks as big as 434, if that helps

It sounds good, I can't really report much because I haven't got my motor running smooth, and don' t have the carb tuned very well (at all). The idle's like 1100 RPM and at that level it's got a bit of resonation, we'll see how it is on the highway.. if it drones I'll be unhappy It's got kind of a mid-throaty sound, not raspy or boomy... Hopefully someday I'll have some video clips or sound files posted, once I get the car running well. I ahve to pull the motor because of clutch demons.. she won't go into gear. I got all the right hydraulic parts and still no go so I am convinced it is something internal. At any rate I want to pull it apart and check it out to be sure. Probably, the throwout bearing's not installed right or I don't have the right one. The above view of the exhaust isn't that great ebcause you can see the welds - once it was all assembled he hit everything with paint to stop and hide corrosion on bolts, flanges, welds, etc so it looks even better on the bottom side I'm afraid my pictures don't do much justice.

Yep... going to pull the motor today... Have everything pulled but the goddamn driveshaft which is probably my most hated and despised part on the entire car. I've got a mind to just pull the motor and let the yoke come out of the tailshaft by itself but then it'd be a pain to put it back in when the motor goes back in. I dunno.. might be worth a shot. Anyways, here are some pics of my exhaust that I had custom built at Ed Hanson's Muffler Service. Okay, so it's not mandrel bent, or full stainless steel, or jet hot coated, but god damn if the guy doesn't do some nice work. He stayed after the shop closed for an extra 4 hours to get my exhaust finished and said that he'd rather work on a car like mine, a custom built machine with lots of time and soul put into it, than any high dollar ferrari. The exhaust is 2.5", and it's routed nicely to clear the oil filter, starter, and clutch slave. It tucks back into the X-pipe, then is flanged to be removed in three parts. It curves up into the MAC center in/offset out mufflers which tuck up under the car, unseen. The way he mounted the hangers is all pretty trick. Up in front at the X, it's actually hung from the transmission. You'll notice that it's almost perfectly symmetrical in all respects. I'm very satisfied $428 total for his work and parts, plus $100 for the mufflers from MAC. he only charged me $200 for labor so the tax would be less when the labor was actually 300 something.