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Mike, i don't know if you got me email but no reply yet... I'm curious what the sale price would be for the stage2 front brakes with slotted rotors, pads, SS lines, and a helicoil kit. email me back at nionwolfATsan.rr.com please.. replace the AT with the @sign.. i hate spam trollers

Hydraulic loading wheelie bars are illegal on FWD cars... what the stye that is legal (like on that car) do is this: The front tires are aired down quite a bit. The wheelie bar is put against, or very close to, the ground. When the tires expand upon rotation/takeoff, they are forced hard into the ground by the wheelie bars, creating lots of traction.

Go with the billet... it's trick dood I got a billet steel one from eBay for about a hundred bucks, brand new, don't know the brand but it's beautiful and I trust it... sixteen pounds

you can get an autometer gauge, I think it's the 0-90 (amps? watts?) GM version. I'm running that gauge and my fuel cell has the GM sender.

I don't really know, a lot of the guys on twinturbo.net seem to think their cars are better than Supras in every respect... So much better than every other car in the world... I wanted a Z32TT so badly before but now I love my Z more

i have ceramic coated headers but they still produce tons of heat. The plastic wrap around my wiring harness is already very melted near the headers. I'd recommend moving the brake line, I did, it doesn't take much work and it's kind of fun to get creative with the routing and the mounting brackets

If you mean Dave Turner... yeah I go there a lot for stuff, kind of expensive but they are a small race shop trying to stay alive. They do have a lot of stuff for Datsuns, more than any other local tuner. Dave's a pretty cool guy who has worked out some good parts for me and my friends. The TMC camber plates are a pretty cool design, I think, if I'm remembering right. I might actually be thinking of EMI. Maybe I'm not helping any

Igor, you're a pretty keen guy. Nobody I know that's my age is cool enough to build a V8Z I'm turning eighteen next month and leaving my car at home while I'm at college, unfortunately. I suppose I'll make the trip down whenever possible (two hour drive) to work on it and get it running. I'll admit that I've got about $10k into my car so far. I'm really not sure how I've managed it so far, except that I owe my parents a LOT of money I sold off a lot of stuff on eBay, plus I work, and have been saving for a long time (since I was around 11). I think with your budget look for a non-running donor that you can fix up once you've got the motor swapped. Do an automatic swap, that'll be cheap and easy (believe me, I've had about three month's total worth of setbacks because of clutch difficulties). Look for an overdrive tranny if you can but if your budget's really small a TH350 will be fine, you'll just have to deal with high RPMs on the freeway. I started out doing a budget swap and ended up with everything that was going into the engine bay being brand new, plus a fuel cell, full aircraft braided lines/fittings (those REALLY add up) full dual exhaust, and so on, and so on.. I think the place to start is the JTR manual. Read it over and over, memorize it, it's your bible, especially for a budget swap like yours. You can go straight from the book and not have to work anything out yourself if you're using the stock fuel tank/etc.

You've got a T5, which points to a 53 tooth flywheel.... I think you just need a clutch disk for that flywheel and you should be set...

280ZXs had R200s.

It's been done. I've seen one in person on several occasions (383 with a T5) and there are a few pics floating around. Do a search and I bet you'll find them

Hmm sounds lovely... I'm really hoping I won't have to pull the engine, transmission, or both. I have a couple of thoughts... the pivot ball under the fork, is that adjustable? Might that help at all? Also, a couple of people mentioned in a post that I found that they removed the bumpstop from under the clutch pedal to get full throw. My best friend has a Z with the stock motor that had this done for some reason or another and it's kind of a pain with the pedal always going to the carpet.. I don't want to cut this bumpstop out unless I'm positive it will cure my problem once and for all.

he means the headlight buckets

I think you guys are all crazy. I think there's absolutely no better looking taillight for a 240Z than a stock 240Z's taillight - except maybe a Euro 240Z's taillight! I actually think that the taillights are way ahead of their time. I think there was some definite de-evolution from the 240Z to the 260Z. Round, compact, single unit lenses, to fugly seperated square lenses. hideous.

I think I finally got it bled. I removed the whole system and bench bled everything and now it is super smooth, I am 100% positive that I got all the air out. However, the car still won't go into gear and this is the only thing keeping my car from being a running car. I have a T5 with the JTR setup -3 line and plastic slave cylinder. The master cylinder is a 7/8" Howe. With full travel, I'm only getting the slave cylinder pushing about 3/4" or maybe 1". At any rate, it's not enough to disengage the clutch and I can't figure out what I need to do. I have the correct sizes for the cylinders, I have it perfectly bled... What could the problem be? I am 95% sure that I assembled the flywheel/clutch/transmission properly.... could it be an actual mechanical problem? The clutch I'm using was peiced together by a local shop to withstand 400+ horses and be streetably light and smooth so I don't think it has a monster spring or anything.... I just don't get it. This is so frustrating. This is the ONE THING keeping me from being able to move my car again under its own power after about ten months.

HELP i'm going to post this over in the Drivetrain forum too....

I'd love to hear what your single sounds like. Right now I'm not really sure what mine will sound like, I have two MAC 2 1/2" mufflers mounted like true duals (cut out another opening on the passenger side of the car) with a Dr. Gas X-pipe. Right now the idle is around 1000 and it's kinda loud! Pretty boomy, but that may just be due to echoes and sound waves bounding around off the wall where my car is parked. I think it will quiet down a lot when I get the idle down and I think it'll be fine driving around, at least inside the car And yes, I agree, beautifully made mufflers, very clean welds, very functional looking. I drove up to their factory and picked them up in person for a $20 discount Nice people up there.

Sounds kinda like my car right now The picture below is of the car totally dumped, I drove it like this when I had the straight six in it. Now that it has the eight I need some extra clearance so I raised it up a bit, I don' t have any pictures online that I can think of that are real recent but if you want to be dumped this is what it will look like. I have coilovers, struts sectioned about 2", they were sectioned enough that I wouldn't need any spacers when using the Z/MR2 struts. The tires on my wheels are 215/60/15. This is the stock size for the 300ZX. I think you could use 55 series as well if you can find them, the wheels came with 50 series tires (for a 510) and they were way too small, so I'm not really sure how 55 series would be. As it is the sidewall is pretty big, not very performance oriented. I'm going to be looking into some 16" wheels, 8" in front and 9" in the rear so I can get some traction and run some lower profile tires... As it is I'm not sure whether you can run these wheels without coilovers. They tuck close in to the center of the body, there is plenty of room at the fender (too much for my tastes.)

I think I finally got it bled. I removed the whole system and bench bled everything and now it is super smooth, I am 100% positive that I got all the air out. However, the car still won't go into gear and this is the only thing keeping my car from being a running car. I have a T5 with the JTR setup -3 line and plastic slave cylinder. The master cylinder is a 7/8" Howe. With full travel, I'm only getting the slave cylinder pushing about 3/4" or maybe 1". At any rate, it's not enough to disengage the clutch and I can't figure out what I need to do. I have the correct sizes for the cylinders, I have it perfectly bled... What could the problem be? I am 95% sure that I assembled the flywheel/clutch/transmission properly.... could it be an actual mechanical problem? The clutch I'm using was peiced together by a local shop to withstand 400+ horses and be streetably light and smooth so I don't think it has a monster spring or anything.... I just don't get it. This is so frustrating. This is the ONE THING keeping me from being able to move my car again under its own power after about ten months.

I know that the actual diff casings and all are different but I'm looking at JUST the LSD unit... just the part that the ring gear bolts to, that goes inside the case... like if I was going to bolt in a Quaife.

I need to know if the VLSD unit from a JDM Silvia will bolt into my 240Z's R200. It's got 3.90 gears so I guess 12mm bolts. I'm thinking that the output splines will be different? What needs to be done here to make this work? Or is it just too much work and should I pass it up? I have an opportunity to buy the unit for cheap but if it's possible I need to do it ASAP.

I have never done this before so I am kind of curious... I just bled out my new rear brakes, kind of spongy, so I will go ahead and install a rebuilt 15/16 master cylinder in preparation for new front brakes. I am just thinking, when I remove the brake lines from the cylinder and remove it, then install the new cylinder, won't there be air bubbles in there? And if I fill up the new cylinder won't there be bubbles trapped in the lines? Is there any way to get around this? Tap everything and hope the bubbles make their way to the surface, or do I have to bleed them all the way down the lines and out through the calipers? Is it just a question of bleeding the master cylinder properly?

Actually, my way my tranny mounts in the rear is fine. I bought the mount from Kragen for seven bucks or so. The transmission mount bolts up to the transmission at the same 15 degree angle that it is tilted, so even though the transmission is tilted, the mount is still straight up and down, you don't need to fab anything. As for the difference between tilted and straight, I'd go for tilted. It puts the shifter right into your hand.

Here, this is what you need http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1848307697&r=0&t=0 Or this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1848242110&r=0&t=0 Note in the first picture (you can see it best) the angle of the mounting surface compared to the point on the bellhousing.

let me stress that YOU NEED THE SMALL SIZE flywheel. 53 teeth. I went around in circles for literally a month trying to get the correct bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch to match up because people gave me the wrong parts and it was a big mess. I ended up getting a 16lb steel flywheel from eBay for a hundred smackers. the 68 tooth flywheel I have left over weighs a whopping 30+ lbs! I had a local clutch place (Southland Clutch) piece me together something that would handle 400 horses easy and be streetable. I'll maybe be pushing 350 at the limit, so drivability is my main concern. You need to look for a bellhousing that tilts the transmission fifteen degrees towards the driver's side of the car. To determine this, check the shape of the housing. It comes to a point, that's the top, that faces up. Now check the bolt pattern where the bellhousing mates to the tranny. If it is perpendicular to the point on the top of the bellhousing, it's no good. If it's canted to the left, it's good to go. I think there's only one bellhousing that tilts it the way you want it so if it's tilted it's the one. I think they're aluminum, mine is. I picked up a new fork from Napa, the throwout came with the clutch, and I got my slave cylinder from Kragen. The master cylinder you need is a 7/8" unit, NOT 3/4" as the JTR book states. I got mine from Summit, it is a Howe aluminum master cylinder. Check to see what size yours is since you state that you have one.