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Hmm, I've been thinking about getting some Welds just because I know for sure they fit (tried out a set on my car) and they're cheap. I still don't really like the look much but the performance may outweigh the simple style. I'm surprised that you can use 5.5" backspacing. i tried 4.5" and it fit, but it was tight due to the 265 tires on 8" wheels.. hehe.. they were a Mustang friend's race wheels.

My friend just traded his Tercel straight across for one, it is cool, i helped him put in a new clutch. For $300 it's a steal, if you don't want it you can part it out.

WOW your car is really beautiful. You captured the Jspec look exactly. And the last few pictures, with you in them, are great too - you look almost exactly like my friend Joel, who's building up an SR20DET 510.

How much do you want to sell your wheels for? I may be interested......

definitely the wrong car... your first mod should be power steering if you're really serious, forget the suspension stuff until later

I think you'll fit in fine on this board. That was a very nice introduction. tell me why i have to be a powerslave... i don't wanna die, i'm a god, why can't I live on? i'm a big Iron Maiden fan.

They are Flowtech ceramic coated. When my braided wires melted, I could see the spark jumping the gap from the wire to the header - we had to shut it down. I guess I'm going to look into some of that heat shielding like you mention that comes in a roll of a few feet and you cut it to length because the premade boots are too much.

What kind of problems are you guys having with your spark plug wires? I've already destroyed my beautiful braided wires that took three days to make because they burned up on the headers. It only took 5 minutes of running to cook the second set of cheap Kragen wires, even though the only heat they were getting was ambient. The plastic wrap around my wires is melting and has 'shrink-wrapped' around them. I went to the local speed shop to check out a set of heat-resistant spark plug boots and OMG! $15 for TWO?? Helllllll no..

i think they're just supposed to fit above one another up in there.. one on top of the other... I don't think you have to cut it, unless you really have the urge to tuck both pipes up into the bodywork.

Well, today was the big day. I picked my car up from the exhaust shop and spent a couple of hours getting the ignition and fuel delivery set up, via trial and error. Finally, I got it running enough to break in. There were a few problems - the temperature hit 250 for a minute or two and required a garden hose on the fan to cool down. I had lots of carb setup problems (understandable, considering I've never touched a Holley before in my life) and finally got the mixture about right. About 12 minutes into the breakin procedure (following Grumpy's strict orders!) two of my beautiful, time-consuming-to-build sparkplug wires caught fire! They were too close to the headers and couldn't take the heat. I had to go pick up a set of $15 wires and rigged them up to start it again; I ran it for another six or seven minutes and everything seems fine - i hope my cam's okay. If it flattens I can get a new one for $40 so that's okay. I'm sure everything else will break in well. By the end of the breakin temperatures were back down around 190 degrees. I will continue to follow breakin procedure after I pick up another couple of oil filters and a couple cases of oil. I have a super strong magnet on the filter and I hope it will pick up a lot of the crud that ends up in the pan. I didn't want to drop the pan to install magnets into the sump. I for sure can't drive the car until I get a functioning welder up to my house - if you guys take a look at the firewall, the brake and clutch master cylinders actually mount to a plate that was welded or something from the factory. The weld has cracked apart from time and when I step on the clutch the plate flexes away from the flywheel significantly. I need to re-weld it back to the firewall and re-bleed the clutch before I can even get it into gear.

Lone, I am planning on getting that same pan at some point - it is beautiful, cheap, and looks effective to me! The way our pan hangs out that pan looks great! Pete - pete, pete, pete, your car is SO beautiful. I still haven't read anything about your first drive yet!! What's up? My oil pan, too, is pretty dented up all along the bottom but no worries.. i've talked to a ton of people that say it's nothing to worry about, and I've had no oil feed problems yet when messing around with my motor... i've always got good pickup and pressure. I'm a little excited - My car is in the muffler shop getting a BEAUTIFUL exhaust fabricated for it. It's not mandrel but the work is gorgeous. Tomorrow she will be started and BROKEN IN!

I think you'd mostly need hood clearance.. hey... I'm fine running no hood.... twin turbos make up for more air resistance

Adjustability? Price? Send some pics over to nionwolf@san.rr.com it should be the same if you click the e-mail link in my profile

Sam, sorry if this is totally not answering your question at all, but what car do you drive and what engine combo do you have in it? Your homepage only shows the 280ZX with a leaf blower and PVC pipe exhaust

I believe it's more of a transaxle than a transmission... it's really pointless to even try and imagine doing anything with one

I need to upgrade my brakes this summer. You two seem to be in cahoots, at least with the rear disks, so this is for both of you. I have a hard time deciphering exactly what's needed and what's optional from the websites. So: I have 100% stock brakes, no SS lines or upgrades of any kind. I'm looking at the 240SX rear brakes and Mike's Stage II front package. I think I know what I need for the rears. I need rotors, brackets, SS lines, e-brake adapter, and pads. I have calipers already. What is the cost for all this and what am I forgetting? Cost out the door? Now, additional cost for 5-lug rear brakes out the door? Front brakes - what's required? I need the rotors, calipers, SS lines, and pads for sure. What else? Cost out the door? Additional cost to go 5-lug? If this is a waste of your time and the info is all right there for me, go ahead and let me know - but if there's a simple answer, please give it to me!!! thank you!

I haven't seen any older versions (the newest is 7th Edition, check and see what yours is) but I would venture to guess that the $30 or so for a new 7th edition would be money well spent. There have been a lot of changes since 12 years ago as far as parts availability, and I'm sure they've done a lot more work on different cars to have some better ideas these days.

Clamp the gland nut in a vise... then I think there is a way you can use a crowbar for leverage to spin the strut... i remember that being the way we did it when I took it apart.

I think they're just obscured in the picture by the #1 and #7 primary tubes...

How much did the dealer want for the Supra?

I'd keep looking, you can probably find a Camaro LS-1 with a T56 and all the accessories/wiring for around the same price. I've seen it done in the past.

What?? $170? They raised the price

Hmmm.... sorry to be a downer guys but I guess I don't really see the charm... it's just a big, ugly, old honkin American truck to me. But I guess free is free I guess you can get it running and sell it for a little cash.

They are 2 1/2" center in / offset out. The ones I got are the welded Flowpath mufflers - everyone I spoke to recommended them over the stainless mufflers, but I'm not sure exactly why. I would have picked them anyway because I prefer welded style mufflers.

John C, I believe I looked at your car at the MSA autocross not this year but last year, when it was at the Wild Rivers parking lot. I must have spent a cumulative couple of hours admiring your suspension setup. I too would like to compliment you on it all!