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Okay, I fixed it. The wire from the fuel pump switch was spliced into the wrong black and white wire (not the hot one to the coil) so I just unsoldered and resoldered it into the proper wire. Duhh

SW had a Hybrid Z?? Nice! Yeah, I don't know him personally but I have seen him around on different messageboards.. I know that some of his money comes from an exotic car dealership that he owns, but the rest of it is anyone's guess Probably just really good investing. He owns several 454SS trucks, a 502SS, a Lightning, one or two Vipers, several Corvettes (at least one in the nines), a couple of Supras (at least one in the nines) and so on.... seems like a cool guy too.

To beat the big Sup Dawgs at their own game you will need lots of power (shoot for high end, or boosted if you can) and extremely efficient aerodynamics. I believe Mike Kelly has gone for a few high speed runs..? You will need a solid aerodynamics package, probably with a good air dam, whale tail spoiler, and an undertray to help smooth the airflow underneath the car. I've always been amazed looking at different boards how many Supras, 300ZX turbos, BMWs, Corvettes, etc. all hail from Texas. I personally would shoot for a twin turbo motor. The key to Supras' freeway domination is serious forced induction.

Jason, what headers are those?

it seems like it has enough power to fire off one or two cylinders when I crank it but then it dies. when I crank it up it will pop once or twice immediately but then will just turn over on the starter. I tried hooking up a hotwire like you suggested but results were inconclusive. there are a few things that I am going to try tomorrow when there's more daylight to work with. it's probably something stupid

Hey all.. me and my dad have been looking at my ignition and trying to figure out why it won't work consistently. Before, I wasn't getting any spark, and it was because I had the two black and white wires that go into the HEI coil reversed (oops). I'm not surprised, given that they're impossible to tell apart. So how exactly does this ignition work anyhow? My dad has no idea and I'm not much help. What we're trying to figure out is what kind of voltages we should be seeing on the TACH and BAT wires when the car is off, in the start position, and cranking. I've had the car pop and fire a couple of times but when I hook up a timing light it only flashes intermittently. I pulled a plug and grounded it out on the header but it never flashed once while cranking the motor over. I wonder if there's anyone in the San Diego area who wouldn't mind heading down here to help me out..? I'm just using the standard wiring harness and HEI, like the JTR book spells out.

I'm just curious if a set of 265s on 10" rims will fit nicely in the rear under a set of ZG flares in the rear. 245s in the front on 8" rims. The offset is something like 3.5" or 4". I am unclear on this. Thanks!

The early Zs had the diff placed more forward in the car. Later Zs used a curved mustache bar to place the diff back, straightening the angles of the halfshafts for less vibration. There are several articles around the net regarding what you need to pick up if you want to set the diff back. I've done it and it's no big deal.

Get gasket maker. I bought my diff from All Z Auto Wrecking and Lee (one of the owners) pulled apart my diff to let me see the internals. He put in new oil and squirted a fat bead of this blue silicone stuff on the mating surfaces, let it set for a minute or two, and torqued it to spec. No leaking problems. I'm not sure exactly what he used but it looked like real good stuff.

That's pretty much it. A company named Scarab made the first V8 Z-cars. I'm not sure exactly how they were sold, off a dealer's lot as new, or as a one-off thing. I believe additional information can be found on zhome.com. They were very rudimentary but were as advanced as they could be for the time, given the particular hardware that was available. The engine was mounted by simple 2x2 spacers on the motor mounts and used the original Datsun clutch setup on a custom bellhousing, as mentioned. The exhaust used four glasspacks, i belive off the top of my memory from what i've read in the JTR book. nowadays, a real Scarab is rare machinery indeed.

Hey guys.. the weirdest thing. I'm just getting around to inquiring about it. When I was working on the car in the garage, I had it down on the floor and everything was cool. Then i put it up on 4 jackstands for a couple of weeks as I worked on the fuel system and some more stuff under the car. Eventually I put the wheels back on and put it down on the ground, just as it had been before, with no suspension or wheel changes, and with no change in weight on the front. All of a sudden, I had massive toe out. I mean like visible to out, like, if i point one wheel straight the other toes out what looks like at least 4-5 degrees. Like I said, I didn't change any settings. it had been on the ground with the V8 before and it was fine. What's up? Should I just get an alignment when it's back on the road and not worry about it?

*nod* yeah, Terry.. they are rare.. but my friends informed me of a place that deals with rear JDM silvia clips (like a front clip except.. you know) and sells full 240SX LSD R200s for $450. if i find out more info i will let you know. i've seen and heard the action of a Quaife and i don't know if it's worth $1200 for all that noise and jerkiness.

I know the cases are different but I am wondering if the LSD portion of the internals can be swapped between a 240SX diff and a datsun R200. I am curious because I know of a place that sells JDM LSDiffs for $450. If you could just change the internals around I'd rather do this than get a Phantom Grip. Something tells me it wouldn't work, though, because nobody seems to have done this before.

I can't remember exactly what I was quoted by this one guy who specializes in shipping Nissan JDM engines, but i think it was something like: RB25DET with a 5spd tranny is $6900. RB26DETT with a 5spd tranny is $8900. that may be with or without harness (probably without) and with or without accessories (probably with).

I dunno about you guys, but my Z car is a 'babe magnet'. Of course, all my girl friends used to call it 'cute' They won't think it's so cute when I get it running with the V8 and throw them a rev

Good! That actually does help me feel a bit better... I forgot to mention that my unsprung weight should be going up a bit as I am planning on running some fatter wheels and tires, something in the 8-10 inch range, with some ZG flares on the car... i will be swapping to rear discs and Mike's stage 2 fronts eventually. Anyone else have any input?

Someone please help me feel better about this - I just installed 225 front and 250 rear springs. This is based on several old posts, particularly one of my own ( http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000952). I am about to get the MSA set of swaybars and a front strut bar. I will eventually be stiffening the chassis with a cage and possibly structural foam. The car will mostly be a street terror but will probably see some road race 'fun days' and autocross practice events just to work on my skills. I was under the impression that heavier springs should be used with the V8 conversion, but based on some discussions, I'm wondering if what I've chosen is too much. Should I exchange the springs for something like 200 front and 225 rear? This is a decision I have to make now, before I actually use the springs on the street. I don't want to wait too long to do the exchange or they might not take the springs back. Thanks.

I have been seriously considering using expanding foam for a while, after reading that using it in an AE86 (corolla) can stiffen the chassis 45% while using a roll bar can only stiffen around 25%. I am curious if a combination of the two might be ideal.

If I was going for all out road race capabilities, either an SR20DET or 3SGTE. Hell, the JGTC supras run 500hp 3SGTEs and if they can do it so can we. I think the inherent lightness and high rev capabilites of an SR20 would do a road race Z car very well.

Hmm.. all right.. I am in... I need to go check the couch cushions though.

Just like the title says. I can't think of many others more deserving! Good job Stony! I plan to submit my car in, oh, a year or so

Bill, i just want to compliment you on your car's new look. it looks tough!! Very clean and nice with those big wheels.

Yep... see five posts up. Thanks just a slip of the fingers. i've typed Z32 a lot more times in my life than I have Z31.

Mike, I may be interested, let us all know the final cost of the group buy.. it partially depends on the results I hear from you guys. If it works great I'm in. if it works okay, i'm still probably in. if there seem to be major problems (metal filings in the diff oil after a couple hundred miles) i may look elsewhere.

Well, that wasn't the case. I hooked up a ground strap and still don't have any ignition. Can anyone give any tips?