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I think you'll veto the idea yourself once you fire it up with open shorties. The possibility of damage is fairly small (I think you're really only supposed to worry about running no headers AT ALL) but I may be wrong. However, the racket you will generate is ungodly and I know I wouldn't have the gall to try and drive it on public streets.

A friend installed those APC door locks on his 510 and no problems at all. They work as good or better than factory. Up until he installed them none of his locks worked at all and he had to leave it unlocked everywhere

Tim, I'll back you up.... if you make a kit I'll buy

Mine was 20.8" from the center of the front ujoint to the flat mounting surface on the diff. Very short shaft. My car is a 240Z with a T5. I think they used 2 3/4" tubing for it, not sure exactly, but it is much beefier than the stock size. He gave me a piece of the tubing to bring home and make sure it would clear the ebrake, very nice of them. It was $60 for the driveshaft yoke that I brought home to measure and another $150 for the other new ujoints, welding, balancing, finishing, etc. Not a bad deal if you ask me.

I hate to tell you guys, but I ran into this topic elsewhere (on a goped forum) and the video is a fake... the moderators on LS1.com created it as a joke to see how long they could fool everyone. DON"T TELL ANYONE OVER THERE! I feel like we should all know the truth over here at HybridZ.. They dubbed in the sound and strategically sped up the video... there's no way in hell ANY goped could go over 100mph. I think the record is ~45. However, it is very good forgery and very convincing!

2 words: Hell yeah. I hope it continues to expand.

I mounted the JTR radiator crossmember with a couple of long bolts through the frame rails. They were long enough that I put a nut on the bolt, then put on the crossmember, then tightened on another bolt. This effectively lowered the xmember half an inch and I don't have any clearance problems with my Griffin radiator.

Haha that's awesome. I just bought a totally modified Goped but sold it after a month to finance my rear brakes. It was pretty rad, not the best motor available, but fully built... it'd go about 32

I think I got my Illuminas for $109 from Dave Turner Motorsports..

Uh oh, now I've got a real dilemma on my hands.... LSD or front brake upgrade..? I'm going to email Reider Racing and see how many units they've got in stock... I have a 3.90 gearset right now... god, I hope my freeway RPMs won't be too crazy.....

I installed the brakes today, all is good except the E-brake, I am a little confused how to get it working as I haven't seen any pictures anywhere else. It took me pretty much all of today (from 10AM to 5:30PM) but I was working in less than ideal conditions... in a parking lot, on a slope, with tools that are very fussy. I ended up cutting the backing plates off with a sawzall, a hacksaw, a dremel, a propane torch, a screwdriver, and a hammer... Actually, it can be done with just the hacksaw, dremel, and the propane torch. You can't reach the very last inner part that contacts the hub so I ended up heating up that metal and pounding it/bending it/ working at it with the screwdriver till it came free. The first one took a good hour and a half and the second probably only half an hour, since I had the technique down. Then I had some more trouble with the brake lines, one of them was frozen and took about an hour and a half to remove, after turning it from a hexagon into a complete roundagon... Otherwise the lines went together pretty well, I got the 20" hardline in nice and clean with the stock hangers, the passenger side is a little twisted but I guess I will live with it... that side doesn't have swivelling fittings. I am unsure how the e-brake works, I swapped the lines left and right like Ross recommended. One pin goes through the end of the cable and the adapter and is pinned in with the cotter pin, got it, that's like stock... then the other end of the adapter...? Best I can figure is that the pin goes through and the cotter pin goes through that, and the pin rests in a groove on the end of the arm on the caliper. It really doesn't seem secure... I'm super pissed though.. because I took a ton of pictures and now it turns out that none of them got saved to the memory card... My dad dropped teh camera and broke the battery lid and... damn. long story. When I remove the wheels again to bleed the system I will take some more pictures. I wanted to have an illustrated story but I'm afraid it's not going to happen.. i don't really feel like disassembling everything and putting it back together again.

I hope you guys notice that I made this post almost two years ago, i have a motor now, see my second post above (from today).

I hope you guys notice that I made this post almost two years ago, i have a motor now, see my second post above (from today).

This is an old old topic, I think I spent about $1500 as well for a local engine builder to build my small block. The charge for the engine itself was $1100 including the assembly, basic balancing, damper and forged pistons but I had him install a cam, roller rockers, and valve springs that I spent $400 on elsewhere so that brought the total up. Then you add intake manifold, carb, distributor, headers, etc etc etc...

Mike C, what's the most recent word from Reider Racing?

Yummy. It's so nice to open a box and be greeted with the word 'Brembo'. The brackets are beautifully finished, the lines are awesome. He included the hardware to bolt it up. I have everything except a couple of banjo bolts which I ordered from Nissan today. The calipers aren't in the picture because they're too dirty and ugly

Yah, sorry if my numbers seem weird, I was factoring the $50 for the calipers, $455 is the total price of everything... $375 plus $30 shipping from you, Ross, and $50 for the calipers. $455 total. Sorry about any confusion. BTW, I don't think any of you will be disappointed if you go with Ross' rear disk brake kit. I haven't even received the package yet and am already very impressed with the prices and the effort he put into filling my order. He gave me a very professional quote and had the package in the mail the day after I placed the order. This guy really is doing us a service, he is creating products for a very small number of people and the dedication he has is great. Ross, please don't think I'm cheating on you by looking at Mike's front brakes I haven't seen any info on yours.

Yeah.. that sounds like a good enough explanation.... I always thought that it was just because it looks bitchin! I've seen a few twin turbo Z32s with this same setup and they look awesome too... kind of the Rat Fink big wheels in the rear, small wheels in the front look.

Yeah, I guess I didn't include any links, did I. You can find Mike's brake kits at this site, scroll down to the automotive section link

I dunno about you guys, but I have very little faith in ANY early Z-car, as far as crash safety and crumple zones go.

Go to Summit Racing and browse through their fittings. I can guarantee you'll find the right thing. I'd point the way but I don't know if one end of the 90 degree fitting needs to be AN or not. If you know what kind of thread goes into the caliper, you should be able to find one. Should cost three or four bucks. I have a store nearby that's an Earl's distributor so I buy all my fittings locally.

I just paid for my rear disk swap, $375 plus shipping, not including the calipers themselves, which I paid $50 for from a friend. I think this is totally reasonable, considering the cost of the brackets themselves, the pieces for the braided lines, the carbon fiber pads, etc. Total it's cost $455 including shipping which isn't such a bad deal. Hell, you get a great looking bracket, great pads, a modern caliper with e-brake, and Brembo rotors. I'm starting to shop for my front brake upgrade from MikeSCCA right now.

Don't even bother with it if it has chassis damage... just keep looking... you'll find a better Z.

No way, those are 8.5" wheels?? Under a stock fender, with an extra inch of clearance? How is this possible? I have to wonder what size tires are on those wheels, and if they're easy or tough to find... How much did you pay for the Compomotive wheels, and how long did it take to make them? Sorry for all the questions.. but wow, it's exciting

No way, those are 8.5" wheels?? Under a stock fender, with an extra inch of clearance? How is this possible? I have to wonder what size tires are on those wheels, and if they're easy or tough to find... How much did you pay for the Compomotive wheels, and how long did it take to make them? Sorry for all the questions.. but wow, it's exciting