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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/index.mv?photo+200309140943589706

This happened to me too and was the cause of a lot of stress because it took me forever (like months) to figure out why my clutch wouldn't bleed. Duh

As far as I know there isn't a single person who has used the spacers. Some people fit them and remove them later. In general, unless you're using a Victor intake manifold, your combo will fit under the hood.

It is very wise to not use a short pump. it looks nice all snuggled onto the engine but when it comes time to find alternator brackets for the car, you're sh!t out of luck. It took me about 6 months to realize that there's just no easy way to do it. so I ordered a new long pump and sold the brand new short one on eBay.

Do you have a standard gauge or an Autometer/etc? On startup your gauge should read about 50psi (middle). As you drive it should rise to 70 or so. After a few minutes, the oil pressure might read about 25 psi because, as we all know, when oil gets hot it becomes much thinner. Oil pressure while driving while it's hot should read 50-70. In my car with an Autometer gauge, the oil pressure gauge works almost like a mini tach. Whenever revs rise, so does pressure.

Cool

Now that's what I call front-mid engine 8) Once about a year ago there was a 90-91 Accord with a V8 on ebay, may have even been a big block but not sure - it fit under the hood and looked fairly stock from the outside except for the MASSIVE tubbed meats in the back! Pretty cool

All 240SX's have finned diff covers and this does not positively indicate an LSD. I don't even think they were available with LSD's, anyway, but then what do I know

I've been running mine for about 600 miles. I know it's not that much really but I see no reason why it should pop loose. The hole is not made very much larger and the threads go down pretty far in there. Plenty of surface area on the threads holding the fittings in. I trust it 8)

Looks to me like it's just strapped on there with some T-clamps and the ends are hanging out. Just a visual trick. It's not welded to the exhaust, I wouldn't think

It may sound dumb but be sure your glove box is closed all the way and the light inside is off

Bleeding the clutch is a B!tch. Yes it does take a long time and a lot of cursing. Just keep at it. Have your partner slowly push down on the pedal - once they've started pushing it down, slowly of course, crack open the bleeder, and BEFORE they hit the floor, close it up again. Lift the pedal and repeat. This makes sure no air sneaks into the bleeder while you have it open. Of course, this will ONLY work if you've bench bled the whole system! Take it all out, bleed it as best as you can on the bench - turn everything around, tap everything with a screwdriver, get all the bubbles out - then bleed it in the car. If this doesn't work, something's wrong! Good luck Edit - I just reread your post and read that you have not bench bled it - based on my own experience, you won't have any luck if you don't bench bleed it! There's nothing more satisfying than watching all those little bubbles come popping to the surface in the reservoir.

Beautiful... very nice. I like the K&N filter on the blowoff valve

WOW, I must say it looks awesome!!

Hey guys my friend Joel has a 510 with 280ZX 15/16 master cylinder, ZX front brakes, stock rear drums, and a Wilwood brake bias adjuster. We built the lines ourselves and are sure they are clear. Everything is new or rebuilt parts. What happens is, whenever the pedal is pushed in, fluid is sucked from the large rear reservoir and is pushed into the small front reservoir. Basically after a few pumps the rear one is drained and the front one is overflowing. I can't figure out what's up as there are no leaks in the system and i have been able to get fluid out of all the bleeders. All the brake cylinders seem to move freely. Any idea what could be causing this? It's keeping us from being able to finally bleed the brakes for good. Steve

That's a damn big engine, width-wise, with those big 32v heads. I know this is just a quick response but I'd go nuts with a tape measure before proceeding any further

Let me tell you, rebuilding the suspension with urethane is a huge PITA but anyone can do it (it was the first project I ever did on my Z, which is my first car... i did it at 16 with little experience)... it just took a few weeks, with my school schedule and all that. I think I could do the whole thing in 3-4 days if I had to do it again (not that I'd want to).

Looking great Tim Keep up the good work!!

I'm running them. Check my album. I'm just running 215s. I've got coilovers, and in my particular application needed a 1/4" spacer at first. I fixed it so that it works without the spacer, but I run it anyway because I got used to the look of it being closer to the fender I get comments on them all the time but I don't think they're special. I just picked them up cheap because they were better than what was on the car when I got it.

Wait, how did this end up in the Non Tech board??? *puzzled*

Not seeing the first pictures

Actually, the black with red flames is not a special edition (I hear this all the time from various sources, including dealers)... just a special paint job that costs extra money to buy.

You wouldn't believe it, and I'm still trying to puzzle it out, but for all this time my timing has been set at something like eight degrees - RETARDED! In tuning my engine I know I set it to 10 advanced, and I've checked it several times. Well, I finally got around to checking it again, and suddenly it reads way retarded. Okay, so I turn the diff, and keep turning, and the engine starts running better right away! REvs start to rise and the idle smooths out immediately. It was so far off that I had to pull the dizzy and re-stab it a tooth over so that I'd have enough room to set the timing right! I still have no idea how this could happen, that it would be so far off that I would need to re-stab the distributor. Anyway, I re-set the idle and took it for a drive. What do you know - my car is FINALLY FINISHED! I'm having a hard time grasping the idea that my car is finally done - it runs right with no problems whatsoever! All of a sudden, I can smash the gas to the floor in second and it will run perfectly from 1k to 6k - and god, does it pull hard. Third gear pulls leave me breathless. If someone wants to host, I'm working on a short video of her

Pictures of mine can be found here... http://www.geocities.com/nionwolf/Z.html Sorry, I hope you're on broadband for my page! It's pictures of the whole car but there are a few that show the top mount. All I did was grab the top radiator mount from an old V6 Camaro, trim it to fit, and drill and tap a couple of 3/8" bolt holes in the radiator surround on the Z.