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Congrats on the first drive!!! You're really lucky that your motor doesn't require breakin procedures, or carburetor tuning. Best of luck that you don't have to deal with cooling problems either!!!

Yikes They look really sweet though. I'd love to fit that much rubber underneath with no flares.

How much?? Where??

CONGRATULATIONS!!!! Now get ready to work out the rest of th bugs

The one speed has a small black wire and a small orange wire. The two speed has one large black wire, one large brown/yellow wire and one small brown/orange wire. The two speed fan is actually thinner than the one speed. hey, if you guys want, I can take a comparison picture.

That is how mine is set up too, except the fuel filter is mounted before the regulator, not after. This shouldn't affect it, though... My carb is a 650 DP.

72zcar, if you want to return fuel to the tank you can't use the stock Holley Blue regulator. However, I have been using the Blue pump and regulator set at just under 6PSI with zero problems. The gauge reads very steadily. Are you sure you have your fuel pump hooked up correctly? You might be getting some kind of fluctuating voltage (bad ground maybe?) Although it is not necessary to run a return, I guess it is a more efficient way of doing it. In my case it's not necessary and it made it a lot easier to run my fuel line by running a single line from the tank up to the engine without having to run a return back. If I were running a more potent engine I'd probably do it differently.

BFH?

OK here's the deal. Thermostatic sensor is good. Control box checks out. Relay is as perfect as possible. Wiring is spot on. Potentiometer should be in perfect working order. I replaced the 25A fuse in the orange lead with a 30A. The fan turns on as soon as I turn on the ignition. Even with the thermostatic sensor wiring cut, creating an infinite resistance that should keep the control box from turning on the relay. It's like... the first wiring kit I had would never turn on the relay, no matter what, and the new one turns it on all the time, no matter what. I just don't get it. I can't even express how frustrated I am by this simple job.

Well, OK, here's the current status. I discovered that it stopped working because a fuse blew inside the car (I wired up the positive feed kind of shadily... Don't ask. It's direct from the battery now.) Relay is fine, etc. However, even with the pot turned all the way to the right, the fan comes on as soon as the ignition is turned on - and immediately blows the 25A fuse in the orange lead. I have no idea why the fan turns on without any input from the thermostatic sensor (unless it's shorted) and I'm starting to wonder about the fan. It is a junkyard fan, so it might actually not be in the best operating condition. It certainly pulls a lot of juice, enough to immediately blow that fuse.

Wipers?? Who needs wipers anyway? When I was stripping my engine compartment for the V8 I got to looking at those big, ugly, slow, distracting wipers and realized I'm never going to drive my Z in the rain anyway - too much of a liability. Off they go!

Well now WTF They took back the old relay no problem and I picked up a brand spanking new one. Took about 15 minutes to install this time since I knew the layout well. Turned on the car, fan came on almost immediately. Turned the adjustment pot all the way to the right, let it warm up, turned the pot back down to set the fan - nothing happens!! I ran through all the checks again and it looks like the relay burned out somehow?? When I ground it out like the troubleshooting guide shows, it doesn't click over and turn on the fan. The other relay did, yesterday. A couple of drops of coolant splashed onto the new controller, but that shouldn't do it? This thing is pissing me off. Why can't anything I install ever just WORK?

I went and bought that kit and spent a long time today installing it (like 3 hours, making sure everything was correct). The thermostatic sensor is faulty. Awesome I have to try to get Pep Boys to take it back tomorrow, clipped wires and everything.

I'm sure Scottie can jump in here.... but from what I've heard and read, adapting a manual transmission to the Buick engine can work, but is really undesireable. If I can remember right, the engine simply doesn't work as well using the stick as it does the auto... where it's loaded more to make more boost, with taller gear ratios. The Buick GN is the only car I really wouldn't mind having the automatic in because I know it works so well.

I love the way my fittings look hanging out underneath the car this is an old thread. In actuality, it would be very hard to steal them because the way my box is built, when the fuel cell is lowered into it and strapped down, they are pressed up against the flat bottom surface - basically 'keyed' onto the cell so you can't turn them. That's how it is on my install, anyway. No complaints here

So I've had this new two-speeder hanging around for a while and I'm finally home for summer so I can get to work. Now, I put the first hundred miles on my car with the fan about as ghetto-rigged as possible - after I finished all my wiring per JTR, there was a big black ground wire left over, so I kept it around. I hooked up the black wire of the one-speed to that and ran a red wire straight from the positive side of my battery to the orange wire on the fan. Yup, that's all I did, just put a quick-connector on it, and whenever I needed to start or stop the fan, I got out of the car, pulled the hood pins, and manually disconnected the fan. Doing it this way put a huge draw on the battery, with a big fat blue spark whenever the connector touched, and the wires getting nice and hot. Anyway, I want to hook up the new fan in the best way possible. I will probably just be using the top speed. I'd like to have it running as much as possible, because I like to not have to worry about my coolant. So. Thermostat switch or manual switch? What about relays? I know nothing about relays or how they work. Where do I get the wiring from? Can I continue using that 12gauge black wire that I was using before? It's been so long that I don't even remember what it was originally connected to. What about the positive side of things? My car is wired very strictly according to JTR so anybody who's in the same boat hopefully can give me some ideas. What positive wire should I run off of? Should I splice into something somewhere? I hate electrical stuff. I feel that if I can accomplish this I'll be satisfied. It was easy to do the other stuff because everything is laid out very simply and all I had to do was snip, snip, measure measure, snip, connect. Now, I have to come up with a battle plan myself and I really don't know where to start.

I'm running the Griffin 24x19 (I think those dimensions are correct, off the top of my head) The problem is that the car runs awesome while underway, but stop at a light and the temperature creeps up really fast to levels that get me worried. Just hoping to pull some more air at stoplights.

I've been away from my Z-car ever since last summer. When I left it, it was definitely not in any shape to drive all the way up to my school, and I didn't want to hazard the chance of damage to my baby, or, heaven forbid, theft. I've worked on it the few times I've been at home, but for the longest time I haven't had the drive to get anything done. My main problem is that I got into motorcycles. For the past five months all I have been able to think about is bikes! And why not, super fun and convenient to ride, 50mpg (VERY nice in these expensive times)... But tomorrow I am packing up my stuff and moving out of the dorms to head home for summer. Waiting for me is a new two-speed Taurus fan which I hope will solve the cooling problem of the one-speed fan. Time to fab up some mounts and do the wiring. Relays and switches and thermostats, oh my! I HATE wiring! For those of you that are using the ubiquitous 2-speed Ford fan, how do you have yours set up? I HATE cooling problems almust as I hate wiring so I want to get it right the first time and keep my car cool so I can keep my eyes on the road instead of the temperature gauge. Next project after it runs cool - change the oil! Time to flush out my 100miles of break-in metal dust. Then, rejet and tune my trusty 650 double pumper. Break it in some more. Change the oil to synthetic! Build a roll cage! Bigger wheels? Flares? Front brakes? Racing seats! Oh, god, I love my car! For the first time in what feels like forever, I'm getting that warm and fuzzy feeling about my car....

Mine are made by Flaming Engraving (http://www.flamingengraving.com) and have a Z design (you can see a picture at http://www.geocities.com/nionwolf, scroll to the last picture). My only problem is that after being splashed with hot coolant, coated with dust, etc, etc, is that the finish is dulled and has some stains that I haven't been able to remove with basic cleaners. I think I need to actually polish them out. However, they are very well made, come with good fasteners, won't ever leak, and are a reasonable price. Last I saw they were all over eBay. I think I paid 60-75 for them maybe? I don't remember.

Oh yes, and I have rear disks. I was all prepared to buy the fronts but I moved away to college and bought a guitar instead

My engine has a 350 with forged pistons, 1.5 roller rockers, hydraulic Schneider cam (don't have the spec sheet handy) normal old Malibu heads (I think about 9:1 compression, maybe a little more.. probably 9.3:1 max, I think it's sad that I don't know the comp ratio), RPM air gap intake, double pumper 650 carb. I'm still breaking it in and tuning it but eventually I'll get it dynoed. I'd like to have 320 hp but we'll see. I have a T5 tranny also. Am I satisfied? WEll it still has a few carb demons but DAMN does it pull and god does it sound amazing with its MAC mufflers and X-pipe. For suspension right now I'm running a Ground Control coilover kit with 200#springs front and 250# rear. I think this is right though I'm not entirely sure. Shocks are Tokico Illuminas and struts are shortened ~2". I have an MSA swaybar in front and will install the rear swaybar once I get an LSD. It rides awesome, quite stiff but not super harsh. I think with body reinforcers like a cage, subframe connectors etc. the suspension would work better. I have a rear strut brace. I'm totally satisfied with the suspension, I changed the springs out from the 150/175 rates that it had F/R before.

I did NOT remove them for my T5. The JTR manual states that there should be at least 1/2" on either side and this was true for me. There's plenty of room in there for the T5. I did beat the cr*p out of the tunnel to fit the new crossmember though

Nick - I started my conversion at age 17 and I got it done just fine. If I can do it, you sure can, especially with bit of confidence in your skills. Have fun

Man len you are crazy.... How many cars have you owned in the past 12 months? How the hell do you deal with all those titles and paperwork? Assuming some of the cars you buy and sell include titles and such? I am dealing with registration for my bike right now and it is a nightmare > damn beauracrats.

I believe so... That's what my tranny guy told me and what I've been doing... tranny doesn't seem to have any problems that might be caused by too much fluid. You might want to make sure i'm not the only one who's doing it this way though