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Awesome discussion here, this is what this board is all about. I honestly believe this is one of the best discussion boards on all the net. Nice tight-knit community of rebels with ideas and engineering degrees to back them up 8) I want to see what will happen with this P90. I've been scouring the board for all the info I can find because I think I see an L28ET buildup in the future for me...

F54 block and P90 head? That's a turbo motor you've got there, without the turbo... Check ebay and Zcar.com and your local junkyards and that motor will be happy to take boost... You will have to do all the plumbing and wiring but it will be worth it... I'm fiending to build a budget turbo car myself! Probably not for a long time though.

After looking, I haven't been able to find any relevant information for what I'm trying to do.. All of those point to different ways to hold it down besides the JTR cable method. Agreed, they may be better, but I simply don't have the time right now to drop my whole rear end (or my friend's) to do this.

I tried searching for "JTR" and "cable" in the Drivetrain forum and got next to nothing. I'll check out those threads. Thank you!

Err.. thanks.. anyone else?

Hey guys, I went to install a 3/16 plastic coated cable as JTR specifies on my friend's L28ET 240Z with an R200. The book, of course, is very little help. All it says is "wrap 3 times around the mount and the crossmember" and the picture is from about 10 feet away so there is no detail. From what I can tell, it's supposed to go UNDER the diff and ABOVE the diff mount? However, there is almost zero space in there. I don't have to loosen the diff and raise it, install the cable, and tighten the diff back down on top of the cable, do I? "$3 and 5 minutes" my ass. As I'm about to do this same mod on my own car this Sunday, after replacing the busted diff mount with a new one, I need to know what to do. His car is driveable but sort of my "guinea pig". I tried searching and, surprisingly, there is almost NO discussion on this board about what seems to be a common mod! help! Pictures, if you can, will help too. Thanks

About ten miles from the border (which is damn far for you, unfortunately) there is a place called All Z Auto Wrecking... wrecked Z's come there, they part them out, and put everything on shelves. They have ANY part you might want (minus the really rare stuff, like 300ZX LSD's) on hand, with no work to remove. Sorry it's not closer!

Mine measures out to 3 and 3/16" ; it's 3 and 1/4" with the air filter gasket in place. There shouldn't be any difference between the 650 and the 750... they fit the same float bowls, I believe.. unless the center section needs to be taller for bigger venturi or something.

If there are no replies I can go check when it's light out. Mine is a 650; I don't think there should be any difference.

My diff front mount let go today in a cacophony of thumps that nearly shook my car apart. I think there's probably some nice bolt-shaped dents in the underside of the tunnel from the front of that diff slamming upwards. Anyway, the short story is, it let go a few blocks from my house, and all downhill. When driving uphill, it slams and slams and bangs around, but as soon as you turn downhill and coast, or even slip the clutch along on a flat street, it's nice and smooth. I put it in neutral and coasted home at about 20mph with my hazards on. It went smoother than I thought and I'm glad I didn't have to call up a flatbed to drive me home 10 blocks. I got a good look at the mount - sheared off very neatly. Guess it's time for a new one and a nice length of cable For the record, I had no strap or anything holding it on there. I knew better than that but figured I'd let it wait... Just glad it didn't let go while slamming into 4th gear on the dragstrip. Keep it safe and tie down those diffs!

You may be thinking of Flaming Engraving. http://www.flamingengraving.com I have a set of ZZZZZZZ valve covers. I'm not sure if they still make them or not. Pictures - http://www.geocities.com/nionwolf/Z.html Edit - they do still make them! Check the second page of the old SBC listings. I have a set of tall covers.

109mph? That's damn fast for the 1/8th. Congrats! Time to take it to a proper quarter and see what she'll do.

It's a 350 and the water pump is a Weiand.. Not sure if it is high volume or not. The timing is 10 degrees initial and I still need to check the total advance. Yeah, I think at times I have had air pockets in the motor; The thermostat is a 180 degree with a hole drilled. I have a catch/return tank hooked up that is doing its job so I dunno. The cooling's worrying me less than it used to but I just wish it were consistent.

Thanks Corzette, if I remember correctly there were already a sender wire and ground wire from the original sender. The sender goes up to the dash to the stock gauge. I just used that same wire for the new gauge and sender. It does work pretty well but then again, I've never seen a gas gauge in any car that was totally reliable and accurate!

I'm so glad I've never had this problem in my car, or any of my friends' cars! I really don't mean to gloat or anything, just saying that I personally have never seen it in real life when it is probably the number one or two complaint owners seem to make about early Z's on the net. I hope you all get your problems fixed up ASAP.

http://www.geocities.com/nionwolf/Z.html Running pretty good.... still has some hiccups... Just need to take it to someone who knows and get the fuel and ignition worked out. Need to take the PVC pipe out of my lower radiator hose and get a proper spring (you wouldn't believe how hard it is to find one.. and don't worry.. I've been keeping an eye on that pipe... it's not melting into my engine.. just worries me). Have been thinking about replacing my current electric Phantom gauge with a mechanical one to get a more accurate temp reading... it runs kind of hot still but it's not worrying me as much.. The problem is that the temperature fluctuates, even with an aluminum radiator, Taurus 2 speed fan, and the hood side panels removed to let heat out of the engine bay (doesn't actually do as much as I'd like, unfortunately..) It actually runs real hot on the freeway I'm kind of thinking about selling her, but it would have to be to the right person and for the right price...[/url]

That's my motor up there (with the Schneider sticker)... Engine bay has a lot more 'stuff' in it now... but it's still a VERY roomy conversion!

Pretty Sweet! It'll fit! Hell, cut the hood if you've gotta. It'd be worth it

I am about your same height but I love the driving position of the Z. You don't sit on it, you sit in it! Who wants to sit on it? If you want to sit on a car, get a Mustang! Anyone who's ever driven one knows what I mean My prelude seats raise the position a good two or three inches and it really bothers me. I notice it mostly because with a smaller steering wheel the gauges are almost completely obscured. I want to get some Sparco Sprints and possibly a larger wheel to fix it. If you want to cruise, get a different car. Zs are for driving Get that beast running and you'll see what I mean

I test drove a 260Z with a friend today. It is mechanically very sound and fresh but it has DGVs. I've never been fond of them, even from my outside knowledge, but I've never really had a chance to work on them so I'm not sure what kind of adjustments need to be done. Anyway, the car backfires a lot and is obviously very rich. it idles fine but the exhaust fumes are simply poisonous. The reason I mention the fumes is because the muffler has already been blown out and the fumes just go everywhere under the car. A particularly massive backfire literally blew the muffler in half, and it's gaping wide on the bottom, essentially a straight pipe with no muffling (sounds pretty good, actually). While driving, every time you let off the gas, you're greeted with lots of nice poppings and bangings from under the car - even while shifting from one gear to the next. I spooled the motor up through about 4k in 2nd and let off the gas and was greeted with the loudest backfire I've ever heard - it set my left ear ringing for 10 minutes afterward. So, what do you guys suggest? For starters, I know the air filters need a good cleaning. They're K&Ns and VERY dirty (as is everything under the hood). How would I go about leaning the mixture out? I'm wondering if it's an easy adjustment that I could do next time I take my friend to go look at the car (nice piece of magic there, if I could borrow a wrench and make the car run perfectly there in the driveway). As it is, if he buys it, it will get new plugs/wires/dist cap/Pertronix etc. Where can I find info about tuning DGVs?

Greimann, thanks for the tips, when I get a chance I will check them all out. Just so you know, the car idles smoothly and runs beautifully most of the time. It will rev through the range at low throttle application, but when you get into the gas is when it starts having problems.

What kind of vacuum should I be looking for? I will check the under cap stuff in the HEI as you recommend in the morning. It's a new unit. I got it from some no name company on eBay but it's definitely new.

My motor is really touchy. I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the ignition, but it seems like the main culprit is the carb. It is a Holley 650 double pumper (mechanical 2ndaries) with no changes, other than basic setup (idle mixture, idle RPM, float level). At the moment I'm running with stock main jets (67s) and dropped the secondary jets a size (to 72) because it seemed like it was just dumping too much gas in at once. Here are the symptoms. I have to really ease it off the line, like really baby it, slipping the clutch and slowly modulating the gas. it's not as bad as it sounds because I'm used to it; But if I let the clutch out too fast, it dies very quickly. First gear seems to go smoothly, but if I stick it in second and just jam the gas, the car does something that is hard to describe - it's like it just hits a brick wall. I can hear the motor gulping in tons of air through its four throats, but none of that mixture seems to get the car going forward. Tons of loud poppings, jerkings, backfirings - like the motor is doing all this work but the explosions just aren't working out right, and the car isn't being propelled forward. This is what makes me curious about the timing, because it seems like it should just haul ass instead of bogging. I'm using an HEI with a 50k volt coil but no ignition boxes or anything. I set it to 10 initial but not entirely sure what the total timing is. It's stock, anyway - haven't changed it. I know it should be 36 degrees total advance, but I haven't checked. So what can I do? I'm really not good enough with engines to just say "oh, that's rich" or "lean" or whatever. I want to be able to just give it some gas and dump the clutch and let my V8 torque toss me off the line; I can't even give it full throttle because it just doesn't run smooth. If I ease into full throttle instead of jamming it to the floor, it will rev through the range instead of bogging, but I can feel all kinds of un-smooth poppings, like it's still not running right, or getting too much gas. I know it's hard to help over the net, but what do you guys think?

Awesome

I remember!!! I wanted that car sooooooo bad when you had it for sale Len