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I'm pretty sure it's not... There's no spring but I haven't seen any signs of my hoses collapsing. it's a pretty stout hose.

Yeah, it's a brand new aluminum Weiand...

Sorry, forgot the important stuff. It's an iron headed 350 with 9:1 compression and aluminum air gap intake. The radiator is the Howe all-aluminum and I think my cap is 16lb. The Taurus fan is 1 speed - i pulled it out of the car myself and there were several others that were the same - I think it is from an older car but there are only 2 leads, one black and one orange. I flushed the coolant the first time the hose blew, i keep it a little under 50/50, with more water than coolant. I would be adding a bottle of water wetter ASAP but I keep losing my coolant I haven't checke the Tstat by the boiling water method but I can feel that it does open by squeezing my hand around the upper hose - before 180 there isn't much pressure and right after I can feel the water start to pulse through the hose.

My upper radiator hose has popped off of my thermostat housing twice in the last week and barfed out all of my coolant. I recently moved my electric temperature sending unit up from the head to the thermostat, as this is what most everyone else has and I was wondering if I was seeing inaccurate readings before - 210 to 250. With it at the thermostat I see 180 while driving, climbing up to 210 when stopped. Today I was at a light and all of a sudden the dreaded sound of steam as my coolant went everywhere. The hose was on there tight, too, that's for sure! I'm wondering if this could be a pressure problem? I have a catch/return tank and a 1/8 hole in the thermostat (180 deg) to get rid of all the air in the system, something that was plaguing me before. I have a Taurus single speed fan ghetto rigged directly to the battery that pulls plenty of air, and the radiator is sealed off on the sides so no air can slip by. I just wish I could drive and enjoy my car without having to babysit it and stare at the temperature gauge all the time! It's getting to where the motor is breaking in and I need to start tuning the carburetor for optimal performance, but I have to baby the car around because of the heat. I'm pretty sure my timing is on (~10 deg), but am wondering if my jettting is off. I have a 650 CFM double pumper with stock jetting - AFAIK it is running ok - maybe a little lean? Should I up the jets a bit?

I'm still unsure why the Japanese run big rims with skinny, stretched tires... I've seen some crazy examples on AE86's..

That's a beautiful car!

Let me ask you guys if this is normal... I can start up my car in the garage and with the fan on and the hood closed, it'll idle forever at an indicated 180 degrees. However, as soon as I start driving and put the engine under load, the temp goes right up to an indicated 210 and sometimes touches an indicated 250 (though at this point I usually slow down or coast...). As soon as I put the motor in neutral and coast or sit at a light, the temperature gently descends to 180-190. Is this normal?? The motor's still breaking in with around 40 miles on it...

I am VERY happy to announce that my pressure problem got worked out. I don't know what the cause was but I pulled the dizzy out, reset the timing, checked everything over carefully and pressure went back to an indicated 50PSI at idle - the car started and ran and I got her all timed again. I really don't know what the problem was and I hope it doesn't happen again! Merry Christmas to me - I get to drive her again tomorrow

a 240Z with 19 inch rims? That's going to look about as proportional as a 300ZX with 24" rims...

Either would be fine... I'd go with forged for peace of mind.... I went with forged in my NA setup because I didn't consider 200 dollars for a set to be a big deal for peace of mind... and bragging rights

Darius, if you want to build such a radical Z I'd recommend getting a new car and starting from scratch! The entire Z community is enthralled with your car - basically you are our super hero. The reason I personally love your car is because it's not that extreme. You've got those gorgeous, wide custom wheels and that awesome suspension and the amazing drivetrain with the LSD and the custom brakes everywhere, all tucked under stock bodywork - why would you want to hack up all that beautiful work to cram in an ugly 4 link? Why divide your speeds by three? Basically you have the baddest STREET Z in the world. you'd be CRAZY to destroy it in the process of making the baddest RACE Z! my two cents

Thanks for your replies, guys, I will keep them in mind. I have yet to find the problem but that's just because I am at school and my car's not. When I go home for holiday break I'll have some time to work on her.

Hey guys... Today I had something very weird happen. I started the car and warmed it up. I then plugged in the fan and closed the hood with the engine idling. As I was going to sit in the car to leave the house the idle dropped and the engine quit. I went to restart the engine and nothing really happened, it would turn over and fire on just a couple of cylinders. I discovered that what happened is that the fuel pump was not turning on, which I would assume was because the oil pressure switch was not turning it on. I thought that was strange and turned the motor over a few more times, and confirmed by the oil pressure guage that I was getting no oil pressure where I had a solid 60 psi off idle a few moments earlier. If both the switch and the sender are hooked up to the same spot and neither is showing any oil pressure there must not be any. So, fearing an engine teardown to install a new pump, I pulled the dizzy and spun the pump with my pre-oiler. No problems, the oil pressure moved just fine and the fuel pump turned on. So ok... I put the dizzy back in and again, no oil pressure, couldn't hear the pump running, no fuel pressure. But then I discovered that I had no fuel in the tank - added fuel and discovered that yes, the pump was turning on and pressurizing the line - however, the oil pressure needle was barely edging past 0, and the second I let go of the starter the fuel pump would shut off again. Normally when cranking the motor over, she builds pretty high oil pressure and it takes a while for the fuel pump to shut off while the oil pressure bleeds off. What could be the problem??? When turning the oil pump by hand, it builds pressure as verified by the gauge and fuel pump. When the pump is being turned by the dizzy it does not build pressure?? The only way this could be is if the dizzy is not turning the oil pump, and as the oil pump/dizzy notches are engaging and in fresh condition, I can't see that happening. The dizzy could be not turning at all, but the teeth are fine and as far as I can tell the teeth on the cam are fine.... When I turn it over it does fire a little bit so it is sending spark and must be turning. It seemed like this problem happened really suddenly - the motor was just idling so I don't think I could have broken anything - I didn't hear any strange noises or anything like that. Is there anything that I'm over looking? Any ideas from any of you guys?? Thank you so much...

The speedo is accurate and in MPH.... it has been corrected with a yellowbox.... I saw this video a few weeks ago and it has been discussed extensively on some of the sportbike forums.... Mr. Superkaos has no fear of 200mph+++

I have heard that they work well... if you search I believe it has been discussed in the past.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872225021

You can get a 7/8" all aluminum Howe master cylinder from Summit for about fifty bucks.

Fine with me. That leaves all the early Z cars for those of us who want to go fast AND look good

I'd rather have a 240Z. It looks twice as good on the inside and out. I don't understand how they managed to screw up the taillights, bumpers and dashboard when 'modernizing' the Z for '75. I can understand the bumpers because they had no choice, but the later dash and taillights are FUGLY! just my opinion It's lighter and you can always throw in a cage for extra stiffness.

I'm glad i got the right thing from the start holley 4150 650cfm doublepumper. As soon as I get the mother tuned and my motor broken in... well, we'll see Right now it has a stumble when I get into the accellerator pumps but I'm not really sure if the timing's spot on yet.

Me too. My motor fits under the hood with my RPM Air-gap intake and K&N drop-base cleaner. I'm using hood pins instead of the JTR latch so that's not a worry. I guess it just seems kind of ghetto to use crossmember spacers to make room Everything fits fine, the T5 nestles nicely into the tunnel, the drivetrain seems fairly well lined up..

I pulled my fan from a Taurus at the pick n pull. I don't know what year but it was older. It only has two leads, orange and black, that go straight to the motor. I guess it is single speed.

If i was using a mechanical gauge i would mount it on the intake manifold to keep that line away from the headers.. however I am using an electric autometer gauge and have the sender mounted in the driver's side head. i kind of like this because it shows something closer to the actual highest temperature in the engine, being right by the combustion chambers. I think if you search this question's been answered a few times.

What a tease... I can see the thumbnails but none of the picture links work!

It's not so bad. Get your motor in the car, line it up, pound the hell out of the transmission tunnel until you can fit the crossmember against the floorboards, drill some holes, make some plates for the top, and bolt it all together. Of course, it'll probably take two or three days to do it nicely, so it's not as easy as I make it out to be but it's very simple. It's just a curved steel plate that bolts up to the bottom of the floorboards.