stony

Hey Cuong, Is your turbo manifold a custom made unit or is it for a skyline?

do you have any pics of the dash installed in a car? and will it work in a 260Z i realize the dashs are different just curious if they will fit

anyone every thought of taking a set of ujoints to a machine shop and making some out of some wicked strong metal? I sure its pretty expensive but was curious if anyone had done this before?

hey your in aus... can you tell me who makes adapter plates to adapt the br26 to an automatic tranny? im thinking about going auto and not sure where to go .. most people just go HUH????? when i say rb26 also converter and flex plate applictions thanks clint

DAMMIT!!!!

NICE!!!!! i wanna see the videos ;>

ok does anyone want to vollenteer they services so i can get a set of the brute force ujoints ?... i need to check on if i can get them here but if anyone wants to help me ;>

ok i want the strongest ones out there any suggestions ;> dana spicer = spicer???? i for sure want solids

ok anyone have any links on where to get these? i need them bad. and fast need them by the 25th for the last race of the year for half shafts that is 78 280 zx shafts

well got 2 runs in today sideways thru 2nd gear. it was cold and starting to rain 3rd run did a huge burnout rolled out of the box and tried a small launch to get a feel for traction and bam broke another u-joint!!!!! this time it torn up half sahft real good got remanufactured ones on the way. ive heard dana spicer ujoints are good anyone know where i can get a set for the Z?

maybe not a 202zr they have tons of different models in japan the 300z with 2L rb20DET are really common on the street and in junkyards

not in japan i had at least 4 junks yards that had atleast 2 of them with most of the parts on them ;>

sds is really good and has worked for me but it has its limitations. if i did it all over again i would go with some type of laptop EMS and datalogging setup. if you plan on modding it over time it will be cheaper in the long run to go with a high end EMS/Datalogger because you will save the time and money on the dyno. and congrats on teh motor its and ausome swap.

katman you seem to know what your talking about... im about to order a Chris Alston 10 point cage for my z. I dont plan on doing any "real" racing but would like to have a cage that is legal in IHRA and NHRA (just incase in change my mind about teh racing thing) and stiffens up the car and also adds safety in case of a crash. any suggestions?

ok if your interested i might be able to hook you up with what you need, first what tranny do you have, Best would be to have the r33 gtst 5speed as it is stronger then the rb20 and is a little longer and you dont have the clearance problems mentioned above. If you allready have the rb20 mission not sure of the drivesahft combo youll need but im pretty sure the driveshafts should work. If not it will be alot easier to mod it then to make one from scratch. If my friend can help you will need oil pan , sump, eng mounts and driveshaft, this might cost a bit in shipping and depending what junk yard he finds it in may cost a 100+ not including shipping. if your interested email me and we can talk.. l8rz

i will be at the track for one final shot at tens 10 aug which is teh next to last import race this year. email me at stony7@GCI.NET and let me know how much you want for the Z. go to alaskaracewaypark.com and they have a schedule posted for the rest of the year

here are the slips 1420 pm really cloudy and track is still damp 2.108 60foot 5.431 330 foot 8.011 1/8 @ 96.06 MPH 12.048 1/4 @ 120.048 lowered PSI to 18 and did a weak burnout 1.929 60 foot 5.161 330 foot 7.730 1/8 @ 96.70 11.776 1/4 @ 120.67 made a couple runs here all with about the same results lowered PSI to 16.5 and did a little bit bigger burnout and ran alittle better 1.776 60 foot 4.832 330 foot 7.359 1/8 @ 98.42 11.365 1/4 @ 121.34 did another run here and increased MPH to 99.74 at 1/8 and 122.58 @ the 1/4 mark had another run here and increased 1/8 mile to 100 and 1/4 to 123.5. I'm still sinning all the way thru 2nd gear and getting real squirrly and its pissing me off, this is when i went back to the pits lowered tire pressure to 15 PSI DID a huge burnout launched at 3500rpm and blew a ujoint. the one good thing is a got a come back free pass since i payed to race the pro import event and didnt get to do it

well went to the track today adn ran the Z with teh BFGs and new drag lites. the car pulled real strong all the way down teh track. I did not improve my best et but did increase top speed to 123MPH. It has been raining all weekend here and was just starting to clear up when they opened the track for test and tune. I was launching at around 3500rpm and spining all teh way thru 2nd gear ., past the 6o foot mark. i started lowering air pressure in the tires slowly and got faster and faster all day but still had lots of wheel spin. with the pressure at 18 psi and still having lots of spinning i decided to go down to 15 psi and do a good burn out. well this fixed my traction problem. i launched at 3500 rpm and BAMMMMMMMMM granaded a U-joint I really feel this run was gonna be my 10 sec run because for a split sec it snapped my head back more then what i was expecting. but oh well ... i know where to start next time i go. ANY suggestions on joints. or would it be better to go to CVs? IM gonna search the history for info on ujoints l8rz stony

still running 10 psi on the ceramic turbos. for some reason the MBC i have GReady, isnt working one click its stock the next click it overboosts!!!!not sure whats going on there. think it might have something to do with the rb26 actuators. im gonna invest in a EVC soon . im pretty sure well be able to get it over 400 rwhp with some extra booste but only time will tell. Going to teh track saturday for the real test now if it would just stop raining ill be ok...

i dont mean to sound like im braggin (I am) but i have to remind everyone this is a stock motor, stock turbos running stock booste (10PSI) with and intercooler and SDS, if I dont get 10s, well looks like a electronic booste controller and some extra booste. Zya as far your times do a search on the internet for horsepower Calculators and input your wieght and HP should give you an estimate on times. ALthough mine wasnt very accurate... im weighing in at 2700-2750 and with my previous times it said i was running in the 450+ RWHP Id understand 20-30 Hp but 100 maybe im not as heavy as i thought

Ok folks i finally gave up on tuning by the seat of the pants and went to a dyno (only one in alaska) to tune the 680cc injectors. base run produced 343HP on my tuning which i might add would have a headache after driving had a consistent 10.0-10.5 AF ratio!!!!! last run after getting timing and af ratio right at 12.3-12.7 all the way thru increased to 353HP. the biggest increase was over 50hp at around 5000rpm!!!!! the rest was increased by 20-30hp all the way thru till the top end of the run. this saturday its off the the track to see how it runs. it feels much stronger after the dyno then it did before and feels much stronger even on my tune then with the 444cc injectors which i ran a best of 11.1 @121mph So with any luck and some good traction should get a 10 sec slip i hope.

2.6 L DOHC twin turbo I agree i need something. i was looking at MOTEC ADL anyone know the price on this baby looks expensive I think some time this week im going to go to the dyno and tune it there

dual knock sensors not hooked up I know its stupid just thought i try to get it tuned by ear which up to this point i was successfull. I was thinking the exact same thing about the turbos. IM going to try taking it down to 20 degrees and see what happens. Now that i think about it the one thing that did make a difference in the noise was turning up the booste. My summit AF ratio gage says im rich and my plugs confirm that but the higher the booste the louder the noise is and it also happens sooner like in first and all the way thru 2nd and it also seems to be louder. If it was detonation that loud, wouldnt it be stumbling and falling on it nose or something. the only time it falls off on power or stumbles is when it really rich and i have a black trail of smoke but anyways ill try looking at the turbos and see whats up.

Ok this is starting to get aggravating!!!! MY timing is set like this. idle 20 degrees. it steadily advance to 37 degrees till 3500-redline. retard pulls it back all the way to 22 degrees at full booste and im still hearing Knock (i think) when i shift from 1st to 2nd and get on it. then again in top of third. the car does not buck or fall on its face in fact all it does is make the noise. i can richen it up lean it out, play with timeing and it never changes its allways in the same area. what im starting to think is one or both turbos are stating to go bad and make this noise im hearing when they are under a load. does this sound like a possibility? im lost.... gonna take it to a dyno and run it with af ratio and knock meters hooked up and see what i have but we will see. any suggestions before the dyno?

WOW the 5.5 BS wheels didnt need a spacer with 275 50 15 i had about a 1/8 th of clearance ;'>