stony

Katman I think i posted once before but all i ever see you post is negative stuff about just about every prebent roll cage on the market. whats wrong with them and what do you recommend for drag racing and street racing?

My car is 2wd... the GTR awd system can be used but puts the motor so far fwd in the engine bay the radiator has to be mounted on the other side of the core support. the frame rails in front also need to be highly modified to clear the front axles and the passenger side floor needs to be highly modded to make room for the transfer case. You can do it... it will add alot of weight to the car. If i had a big budget i think it would be cool to do but i dont so i wont

I had to go and say something. I was searching thru old threads and found this one ;> wish i could still say this

i think i calculated my ne with a 9.7 or something

well using the HP calculators out there 394 HP + 127 MPH trap speed just about all of them said it was 2450LBS. so its lighter then i thought :> which means using the same calc i need 550rwhp + or - to get into the 9s does this sound legit?

in japan, common knowledge is to get above 600 hp depending on setup headwork, rods and pistons are needed.

Ok great that was the info i was looking for i think it was posted somewhere else but icouldnt find it.... If something breaks in teh cv axle what will it bee? the axle itself or the cv it self? next question... the brakes from the same car, front and rear disc's are they adaptable? if they are then i just found a new winter project ;> look like the IRS gets to stay for a while... at least till next season.

it is the clutch type no special edition.... it has cv axles i was wondering if these axles can be adapted with the popular adapters everyone is using or are they too long.

these are from the 1988 turbo with the lsd r-200 or are they too long? can they be modded.... they look pretty stout.

Ok im pretty sure im going to install my own damn cage and rear axle..... these people in alaska want way to much to do it... or maybe im just a cheap bastard. i have a bunch of questions for those who have experience. #1... what are the minimum tools required. I allready have a craftsman mig (no gas), grinder, drills, what i want to get is a cutoff saw to cut pipe clean and at angles, sawzall, a couple more jackstands, a couple more pairs of vice grips fro welding, ok next is what and where to start first. for example before i cut anything what is the best way to ensure the car is level, where on the car to take measurements to get axle centered. as far as the front frame rails go i want to cut them right before they start the bend up into the engine compartment and weld in stronger square tubbing of similar size. then run them back to the rear frame and connect them together. i will prabably narrow the rear frame a bit for the hell of it. ok this is where all you expert types start giving me all kinda of recom mendations

r33 skyline GTS-T 5 speed. if the tranny came off an rb motor it will work on any other RB motor

if you were in japan i would say stick with the stock ecu as there are alot of places that can tune them.... not sure if you can find a place in theS that can tune them maybe its a universal thing but i would stick with a good stand alone EMS. and if you want to save some time and money get something that can datalog. AF ratio, egt ect ect. i love the rb but as with any go fast thing i want more now. my original goal of a 10 sec car has pretty much gone out the window with the nine inch install. im dropping the car this week for a 10 point cage and nine inch install. later will be a th350 with a good 3000+ stall. then i get to play with the motor. would like to get it into the 9s. The really cool thing is this motor is very capable of this with just a few more boilt ons and a drivetrain that wont break ;>

dont think you can post pics from yahoo. go to 240z.org and upload to them... then you hit the image but when posting and load the URL from the properties of the pic

jason what was that address Skylinedu.com isnt any good ?

this is the one im running. never gets to what the thermostat is rated at. the hottest ive ever had was 71C after running 5 hot laps at the track. radiator

I dont know but if we get anymore rb swaps going we may need a rb section.

change your o2 sensor running that rich will destroy a o2 meter quick... and tune it on a dyno its alot quicker and safer. i went for a month trying to tune mine... went thru 5 tanks of gas. a set of brake pads, and narrowly missed a 120mph in a 65 mph ticket1!!!!! the gas and brake pads alone would have paid for a dyno session. and if i had recieved a ticket car would have been sidelined

it wont work.... i dont know if the bellhousing will interchange but i know for sure they will not bolt up one is a v 6 and one is a straight 6 totally different housing. I do have a hookup for shipping up here shouldnt be too bad

hmmm anyone else on the dyno have problems with sds?

they are same size... and it will fit they do it all the time injapan

has anyone ever dynoed using sds? for some reason im losing my rpm signal (to the dyno) on each run. we originally thought it was rf interference but with that illiminated and car running fine on we are at a loss. the timing just breaks up all thru the run and only registers randomly on the screen. The dynojet uses 2 leads 4 inches apart on a spark plug wire. we tried different wires, changed leads and also hooked into the green and black wires ( tach and ground) all of these gave us a good idle rpm indication but as soon as we get on it the siganl breaks up. without the timing siganl i have no torque or rpm indication. I would really like to have these available. any suggestions? i have allready emailed sds no reply yet

i posted this somewhere else... for some reason the timing wouldnt pick up on the dyno and we were losing the signal intermintently. this gave us some really wacked out torque numbers .... 500+ which i know is incorrect. anyone have this problem on the dyno running SDS? we can get a signal at idle but as we make a run the siganl goes away. the torque numbers are figured out with timing i guess and since we are losing the signal; the torque numbers are wrong ;<

sounds like you either need a different dyno or some better tires. i dynoed 394 to the wheels with no spin at all. at 15 PSI. i was using bfg DR and the g force DR later and neither had a problem slipping

that is a gtr pan that has been modded .. will not work on a Z car but will work in a 240sx ;>