stony

the more effecient a motor is the more HP it will make with lesser cc. this is kind of a generic way of thinking about it but im relatively sure its correct.

The problem i encountered was that the 260 bearings are standard spec and the 300 z were metric. so i had to get bearing to fit the stubs then machine the housing to accept them. At any rate it worked

Well since i knew right from the start this one was out of my league. all i did was take the 260 stubs anf the 300z stubs and my rear strut to a machinest and ask if it could work. He said i think i can do something. and 2 months later i got them back. i should have looked at that info but i didnt just went on the fact that i know the 300z rear end is alot stronger them mine ;>did take pics though

heres some pic s of how they look

Heres what everything looked like before going to the machinist

well its done. picked them up today. i was impressed almost looks like stock stuff. basically i took a rear strut shell with all the stock stubs and bearings and all the 300z stubs and bearing. this is what the shop did. basically tossed all my bearings and ordered a set of tapered bearings and races and some grease seal. machined the hub carriers to accept the races and walla!!!! everything bolted or pressed together. i figure the 300z stubs and cv axles should handle what i want it to do for a little while at least. Next step is measureing and seeing if reversing the cv will give me enough room so i dont have to make custom axles. i need to shorten them by about an inch on each side. does anyone know how much shorter the axles will be once the CVs are reversed? ( JAMES T????) the conversion cost 350 and the axles if i need them might be another 300, then on to the brakes. im hoping the maxima brackets will work with 300z rear disks and calipers (anyone know if they will????) then i need wheels.....again

who could i get a turbine shaft for the t-88 from in the US if i needed a rebuild?

that was weak!!!!! that circle i believe is what they should have been driving around. Ive seen guys in japan that could be smoked the hell out of the tires while keeping on of the fronts on the line all the way around the circle without the aid of water !!!!

btw i forgot to add at this current time there is 5 hours left and the kit is at 156000 yen about 1300US!!!!!

since my motor is still relatively stock i wouldnt want to go over 18 PSI till i installed a steal head gasket, Thats why i was saying 500HP

this makes my mouth water. this thing would get 500rwhp out of my rb26 without sweating

heres a pic of my bracket. Its made from aluminum. in the pic the sensor is in the shadow.

getting into the 12s is relatively easy on a tight budget. 11s is more expensive and you start breaking things.....10s??? there is no way to get a 10 sec car for under 5000 unless you have alot of friends that have good connections. the easiest (but not the cheapest) way to go fast is to find yourself a motor that is allready hopped up and swap it out. im running a stock rb26 with bigger injectors and 15psi of booste. the thing thats holding me back from a 10 sec slip is the halfshafts. I have well over 5K in mine and i havent really even started modifying. im working on a 300z axle and stub shaft swap. if it holds im guessing a hi 10 sec slip should be cake.

full of oil? There is no reason the turbo would be shipped with oil in it. the turbo probably needs a rebuild.

thats was the only part of the sds install i let a pro do. Any type of reputable speed shop should be able to fab you up something

it can be done .... you might as well go get your engineering masters cause your gonna need it ;>. there was a pic of a drag 240z awd with like 800+ HP floating around maybe someone could bring it back. to use the front drive train the motor gets mounted so far forward the radiator has to be mounted on the fwd side of the core support. and if an intercooler is used teh front bumper cannot be used ;>

i had a problem like that it ended up being the ujoint. i pulled it apart and the cap wasnt broken bbut all the needle bearings inside were turned into a greyish paste one or two more good pulls and it would have broken I would think the stub shaft would break before splines would be bad but im not sure

ok on the rears the machining is done and everything is being pressed together after the new longer studs are installed. instead of going with the 300z bearings we went with tapered roller bearing. the housing was machined out and races installed. once i get the housings back ill need to see what length the axles will need to be and then on to the brakes.

ok the machining is done and everything is being pressed together after the new longer studs are installed. instead of going with the 300z bearings we went with tapered roller bearing. the housing was machined out and races installed. once i get the housings back ill need to see what length the axles will need to be and then on to the brakes. with any luck this will cure my breakage problems.

also a couple of pics of the different oil pan bolt patterns

here is a page i came across. has some pics of teh oil pan mod i did on my conversion this guy cut and welded the pan. I just heated and worked the metal ;> you will have to scroll down there are alot of pics

ok i got it thanks

the pic is of something for sale in japan yahoo auction site. not sure if its for sale or just a pic but it looks bad ass. and im pretty sure it has the gtr drivetrain in it. can you email teh pic to my address i must add this pic to my scrape book ;>

this is a pic on japan yahoo.... knowtice the 4 wheel dyno. i m guessing rb26 under the hood. there is only 4 days left then this pic will go bye bye

all rb motor have problems with Number 6 cylinder because of poor water circulation. Just about everybody that ive ever seen blow an engine its been the number six piston that either goes first or is in the worst condition. Ive been told because of its hotter then the rest it tends to detonate first.